So working on wiring my stock 83 alternator....
Had the stock alternator reworked ( and the starter) at the local rebuild shop..
The wiring loom that connects to the back of the alternator is not in the best shape so even though I am not upgrading to a larger Alt, I purchased some 6 gauge wire to run from the BAT terminal on the alternator to the starter solenoid.....
While following the rats next of wires, " welds " and fusible links I found a fusible link between the actual connection from the alternator to the solenoid/battery lug....
My question is do I need to use a fusible link or install a fuse in my new 6 gauge wire between the alt and the solenoid??
FSM says this Alt is 40 up to a max of 65 amps.....
Thanks for any help here

New to the forum and hoping to get some help and guidance,
I have read a ton of posts over the last few year of this build but still not able to pull the trigger on what I need.
Basically what I have is a DART SHP block - 363/AFR 185s dyno'd at 492hp fwhp.
With the dyno run we ran a carb on it.
The engine is now in the car and getting ready to install the Kenne Bell 2.1L on it.
I'm stuck with getting the right fuel injectors to support the horse power and at the same time I need to be smog legal...for the most part... as I'm in Communist's State of California.
I'm not trying squeeze every bit of horse power. I'd like to go with some kind of switch chip but I'm struggling to find someone to get the chip from.
I don't have a problem going with a MSPNP except that the CEL function isn't supported. So, ultimately, I'd like to do something with the stock ECU.
Thoughts??

Hi all,

I have a 91 5.0 coupe with daytime running lights (Canadian model) that I am trying to diagnose and fix. Following some common troubleshooting tips I replaced the DRL module with this part from Rockauto:


The DRLs worked for about a minute. After cycling the headlight switch and park brake, they no longer worked. No combination of ignition, headlight and park brake switches gets them to turn on anymore.

Does anyone have any tips for troubleshooting? Assuming that the brand new module is not defective, perhaps there is a wiring fault or short somewhere?

Thanks!
Ken

Hello all,

I've got a 2000 GT

I've never had an issue with this car before, but I was gone for a work trip for about 1 year and wasn't able to drive it. When I came back, battery was dead. Replaced the battery, found out alternator died. So I replaced the alternator, then that NEW alternator died in less than a week and stopped charging battery. So I figured my primary issue is somewhere upstream of the alternator, or something else is causing the alternator to fry. I haven't checked current draw or voltages from alternator yet as I recently came back home and haven't had much time to troubleshoot.

Before I get yet another alternator and test current draw, voltage, etc I figured I'd try and isolate the problem first. So, I've check wires in close proximity to the alt and batt, hot and ground. Checked fusible links, eng comp fuse box. All good. Continuity between all ground in eng compartment. I've checked all the fuses, they all seem to be good, both in engine compartment, and I/P fuse box. So, after checking the fuses, I thought it might have been a grounding issue. I checked grounds, particularly at/near alternator and I've measured continuity on fuses 35, 37, 38, and 41. Which to me seems quite unlikely that all those fuses, or wires faulted simultaneously. So that is something that is puzzling me. According to Chilton manual and LMR.com: FUSE 35 = Shift Lock Actuator, PCM, Speed Control Servo, ABS Module, FUSE 37 = Adjustable Illumination/fog lamp switch, FUSE 38 = Highbeams, Foglamp cutout Relay, and FUSE 41, Brake Lamp.

To me this is the only thing I've somewhat found, and none of those fuses seem related to one another, aside from 37/38 and none are blown.

Hey guys, I’m having some issues on my 2007 mustang gt. My cooling fans continue to run after I have shutdown the vehicle. I installed a secondary fuse block after I discovered that the terminal going from my fuse block going to the high speed fan for the ECM was burnt and that part of the connector melted.
I have it setup just like the original circuit setup. Power from one 15amp fuse going to two relays for low and high fan speeds, and wired to the respective fan control circuits to the ECM as the controlling circuit, with power from one 40amp fuse going to the two relays wired to the respective fan circuits as the controlled circuits.
When I turn off the car the fans keep running indefinitely, and I have let it sit for over two hours waiting for it to shut down. Pulling the 40amp fuse shuts them off, but come back on when reinstalled. Pulling the 15amp fuse shuts them off and keeps them off when reinstalled.
I’m concerned that the ECM may be fried on that circuit somewhere and I’m looking for advice, tests I can run, and opinions.
Can anyone help me out?

Okay I've just purchased a 90 fox body from family. On pickup fuel pump wouldn't prime. Got it home and started digging.

Inertia good. 12v both sides of that plug. Ignition good 12v there. 12v at injectors. Control side seems good.

Couldn't hear fuel pump relay click so bought one cause they're cheap. Swapped it but no go.
Jumped the pink/blk to 12v and pump runs. Fired up the car to see if it would run and it ran. Not the pump.

On my fuel pump relay my colors are green/yellow stripe which seems to be always hot. Pink/blk for fuel pump. Tan/Ltd blue and red.

I seem to be stuck and can't figure out why I can't get the relay to work? Maybe the new relay I bought is bad too? Been through the checklist several times and it doesn't seem to get me where I need to be. Any help would be appreciated.

Wondering if anyone has this issue/ or found the fix for it

So, on removing the quest to install a fiberglass hood, and hoodpins... pulled the bumper cover and header support, both have issues and so i ordered a new headlight support piece, and started watching for a new replacement bumper

Header support came from LMR, and would not fit no matter how much i tried... so... putting the old together ontop of the new... i discovered the new piece is 7/8 of a inch to short... and honestly, it looks like it shrunk in the wash... maybe they took it out of the mold too soon... i dont know

why this is an issue... i went several hours out of my way yesterday to pick up a used header support... and... it was an original fiberglass piece... that is ALSO 7/8 shorter than mine... my support piece is fiberglass and i dont really want to repair two tabs, but im not finding any replacements... and maybe im stuck repairing it...
im just posting here before i spend abunch of time repairing something i that i could buy, as of running my business i have no time anymore for these DIY repair projects


thanks for the help

I was wondering if I bought a full spool with c clip eliminators would I have to buy new axles or could I just use the 31 spline c clip axles I already have. Would the eliminators press on the c clip axles and would they fit the full spool

Bouncing Speedo below 20mph is getting on my nerves in the beater. It needs a cable, Speedos fine when I run it in a drill, gears fresh. I have an old nos ford service cable E9BZ-9A820 but not wasting it on this, its 69" for use with a vss.. Dc has a repo of it for Around $25 listed as 79-95, wonder if anyone tried it and had luck over the longer pioneer and atp one size fits many cables... https://www.dcmustang.com/shop-by-c...sion/e9bz-9820-1979-95-speedometer-cable-with

Hey guys.
So. I have this 1979 that came from the factory turboed, according to it's VIN. It is missing it now though.

I'm considering my options what to do with the engine. As far as I understand, stock factory 2.3 Lima's, if turboed, came with stronger pistons and should take about 5 psi of boost.

I sometimes see a Garrett turbo on ebay. Is it the stock one, should I be able to restore the car the way it was?
Or should I perhaps go another route? As far as I researched, SOHC Lima's don't really get a out-of-the-box turbo solutions. What's the best course of action if I don't want to change the engine, but want to add back some power?

The Garrett turbo in question:

I have an 88 5.0 Fox and I’m upgrading the alternator to the 130A 3G version. The new alternator is threaded for the upper bolt. What size bolt do I need for this?

EDIT: No longer needed i got some

Hello I’m new to the channel have a 68 ford Mustang coupe with a 94 ford gt engine that has aluminum heads and some more aftermarket upgrades don’t know much about it only that it sat for 9 yrs so I’m Changing all the fluids and spark plug notice the spark plug gap was 0.43 and I have new ones to install do I gap the new ones the same or gap at 0.52 engine also has efi snapper system. I’m a little nervous about changing out the plugs on a aluminum heads heard the horrible things that can go wrong help on gap setting

I have a supercharged 92 GT. Looks like blue bits from the felpro gasket are on the radiator cap. I have oil in the radiator and reservoir. I read online it can also be a cracked block. Just wanted to confirm before I tear it down, can a bad head gasket cause oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil?

I changed the oil and it was black as night. No milky coloring.

If it’s a head gasket I’m happy lol

Cracked block I’m sad

Ive seen alot of post on the subject but didnt see one that looked like my issue.


So i was driving for about 30 kilometers to the city for a car meet and parked.

When i started the car later the battery lamp was on and the alternator gauge (original) didnt show anny signs of life! UNTIL some kilometers down and it spikes too 18 and keept it there until i came home.
I open the hood and the alternator is super hot i can not touch it but the cables are normal.

The next day i check obvious connectors for corrosion or cabel brakes but it looks good.

I am new to fixing cars and i could use some help understanding the issue at hand.

And please dummy explain too me .

Is there anyone out here who can offer some power door lock advice? I just bought an automatic 4.0l v6 convertible. One of a couple of problems I knew I would have to fix is a faulty power door lock. However, the deeper I dive into the diagnostic - the trickier it gets. For starters, my passenger-side power door lock works perfectly fine / locks and unlocks with either switch. The problem is within my driver's side. The door locks, but can only be manually unlocked. I swapped the actuator for a known good actuator - the problem persists. I swapped the driver-side switch for a known good switch - the problem persists. I went as far as swapping the entire door harness for a harness off one of my parts cars - and still, nothing has changed. I've checked and swapped everything, even things that didn't make 100% sense to check or swap. Any related fuses are fine. And I can't seem to find that the 05/09 Mustangs have an actual power lock relay anywhere. My last thought is tearing deep into the wire harness. Can anyone offer any advice? Where to look next?

I'm trying to find the fusible link between the alternator and battery on my '98 GT.

My searching seems to suggest that it should be either far up front or near the firewall by the fender on the driver's side.

I've already replaced the 50A MIDI fuse near the fusebox.

It seems like the '98 is the red headed stepchild in *so* many ways, with constant one-year differences shared with neither -97 and 9+ . . .

I have over 15v at the alternator, but the system continues running off the battery.

And my battery indicator is on on the dash, even with a fully charged battery.

thanks

hawk

Hello everyone. I just got off the phone with maximum Motorsports about their clutch cable that I ordered around 4 months ago and they basically confirmed my suspicions that ford no longer makes their clutch cables. Their only suggestion was that I stay away from the clutch cables that have the adjusters at transmission end of the cable.

So my question to you all is does anyone have any good recommendations for cables that don’t have an adjuster at the transmission end of the cable? Price doesn’t matter I just need a good cable to replace the garbage that’s in my car.

Can anyone tell me what this is?


It shows +12 on the front (near arrow head), whether key off or on, and 0 on the other side either way. It has no continuity in either direction.

I found it while hunting for fusible links and such.

It and the wires to it look like they're meant to carry serious current. The front side (by arrowhead) goes into the fuse box, and the other seems to disappear into the firewall to the passenger compartment.

I'm on an electrical hunt. Once we got this back on the road, it decided to not charge the battery any more. And now it won't even quite kick over (maybe one cylinder fires after a couple of seconds of cranking).

With a fully charged battery, turning the key to on only brings it to the left hand side of the battery icon, which I take it is all under 12v (even though the battery reads 12.6).

And when it was last running, the single lead on the alternator read 15v, even though the battery was at 12.6.

I have a 2.3l 1979 Mustang and really need a replacement grommet. This part right here -



What's it's number? The rubber on the part is so messed up, I can't read it. I've found some grommets, but not sure they fit the 2.3L block.

I need to know where the ground wires hook up to from the main wiring harness I'm getting no spark no no fire at all does nothing when you turn it over and the odometer reads nothing but dots

Hey Stangnet,

I haven't been on here much lately, but I am hoping to do another install thread soon so that more people can have better information on aftermarket parts combatibility. As always, the internet was devoid of information when I was doing this purchase, because people don't have a natural enthusiasm for sharing. I just spent a HUGE amount of money on a new transmission since my TR3550 has clearly had it after 2 decades of hard shifting and drag slicks. So I went all out on this one. I promise to get as many pictures as I can, get all the details, promote all the different vendors on their engineering merits, and above all else use a thread title that is google search friendly so that people get the best information possible.

Hey folks. This isn't a foxbody per se. It's my 02 Steeda Q400. There isn't a bunch of movement in the new edge / sn95 side. @95steedamustang @Mustang5L5 or anyone that can help. I'll contact Steeda tomorrow.

Just bought a 1995 GT 5.0 automatic. Brought it home a few weeks ago and it rained the whole week so it sat in the garage not started or moved. When I pulled it out there was a small puddle of anti freeze with 3 distinct drops about 6" wide. Looked like maybe a tablespoon full total. Monitored it for awhile but saw nothing for awhile. Parked the car this past Saturday and it sat unstarted until last night. This morning pulled the car out and again 3 drops. Measured from where the front wheels were and the drops are about 12" behind the front tires so back of block area. Measured left to right and its a little closer to the drivers side so next the drivers side of the engine.

Thoughts?

Hoping its something simple like coolant temp sensor but praying it isn't head gasket or freeze plug. I know next to nothing about the 5.0 engines as I was always a GM guy. We also drove the car about 200 miles last weekend with no issues, gauges were fine, etc. so doubt it would be a head gasket

Thanks!