Cross-posting this from a Reddit post I submitted...

I've been working on a disc brake conversion as part of my 68 coupe restoration. This week I installed my new Ford 9" axle . I'm about to order a set of wheels for all 4 corners since the disc brakes require a larger wheel diameter. I've measured everything repeatedly and mocked up the wheels several different ways. Still, as a final sanity check, I'm hoping someone here can help me triple check my measurements.

I'm aiming for a set of Torq Thrust 17x9.5s in the rear. The measurements are as follows:

TT Wheel overall width: 10.5"

Quarter panels lip to lip: 69.125"

Wheel mounting surface to mounting surface (@ rotors): 60"

Spring to spring (outside edge, and same as inner well to inner well): 45.5"

Assume a 255/40R17 Nitto NT555 G2 which measures 10.24" wide, 25" diameter.

The wheels have options for 6.35 and 7.06 backspace (28mm and 46mm offsets respectively).

If I did my math right, a 6.35" backspace puts the tire's inner edge at 1.03" away from the spring and 0.54" away from the quarter panel lip. That's a bit too tight on the outside edge for my taste. I'd like at least 0.75"

With 7.06" backspace, it should put the tire 0.32" from the springs and 1.25" from the quarter panel lip. With a 1/4" or 3/8" shim, I think that that puts the wheel right in the sweet spot.

1/4" shim should give 1" outside and 0.57" inside

3/8" shim should give 0.88" outside and 0.695 inside

I think that's correct, and it seems to check out with my mockup, but I would love a second opinion! 7" is a lot of backspace and not everyone likes shims (longer lugs shouldn't be necessary with shims below 1/2"). Still, I tend to follow Mike Maier's line of reasoning on cheating backspace and shimming for a perfect fit. Thanks for the help!

Hi all- new to this forum so thanks for reading this. I have a 98 Cobra which I lowered 1" on the Ford Performance (Eibach) springs. I installed the max motorsports camber plates, which I highly recommend BTW. Only 1 problem - on the drivers side, there is a hard metal power steering line in the way. I can't adjust the castor because the main plate can't move backwards (toward the rear). I've seen pics of other installs and it looks like they may have replaced that line with a soft line?

The 1st pic of of mine. The 2nd pic is of someone's elses but it looks like they removed this hard line and replaced it (look behind the strut bolt)

Any ideas are appreciated.

First time on one of these forums but I have a 2002 Mustang v6 one issue I am having is that the headlights/high beams are very dim I can barely see up the road and damn near nothing on the sides. I replaced old housings with completely new and clear housings and replaced bulbs with the brightest options I can get and the problem still exist? Anyone familiar with this issue?

Hello, I recently refreshed my 88 GT with some new lifters, new summit stage 1 intake and a quick fuel brawler 600cfm mechanical secondaries. What size power valve/squirters/ jets for best performance. Car also has E7TE heads and a b303 cam. Secondaries have a power valve block off.

i have an 88 lx,and the wipers only work on high,when its raining,etc.i put a good used switch on it, same thing.checked the plugs, grounds,for good connection. they work fine when its dry. still looking for a cure,thanks.

Ok

So
Lookin for advice.

89 GT 5.0 Edelbrock intake (all I know Mod wise)

Bought Ford Code reader
Got a 23 TPS is all for now
Also 98 ON the KOEO test.

Car works ok
Pulls hard
Needs a set of rear clutches (1 wheel spin)
Idle surges a bit.
Fuel pump goes 2-3 Seconds then off at KO
Any away

My main issues is that she won’t start sometimes after running for 30 mins.

Cranks OK
won’t fire up.

If I disconnect Bat for 5 mins (something clears)
Car fires right up.

I have not done the idle Surge/start checklist yet as I dont think I’ll find anything obvious.

Looked for vacuum leaks
Changed CTS/Coolant sender and TFI so far

Likely put a new TPS on as well..

Car has Cold intake
MAF removed (heard that’s OK with the intake that’s on it now..

Thanks for reading folks

Just looking for new places to look..

1992 Mustang LX Convertible 5.0 auto. This is a summer Edition Model One of 2193 made. 70,000 original miles. No Rust, clean underbody. Has brand new interior with correct black piping. Factory AM/FM Cass radio with amp. Top in great Condition. Runs great has cat delete exhaust. Never used factory donut spare along with Jack. Looking to sell 14,500 or possible trade.
located in Pittsburgh PA.

I have a slight shake that is felt in idle and it seems like it is more noticeable jn park vs when it is in gear. I don't think a motor mount could be the problem because I would imagine if it were a motor mount I would feel it all the time and not intermittently...also it would be more of a vibration feel than a shake and it would happen more in drive than in park....but maybe I'm wrong and weak mounts can produce my symptoms...

I have a cheap scanner that gives me mode 6 and does show misfires but not enough to set code and I have no idea when these misfires are even being recorded...

Car has great power and acceleration...I have new plugs wires and coilpack. Ignition is pretty much 100% ruled out. I am wondering what to do next as far as troubleshooting goes....it is either something not performance related (mount...exhaust mount...torque converter) or it is an ever so slight misfire that is enough to produce the slight shake at idle....fuel trims are perfect short term st idle and long term a little bit lean....bank 1 is around +2% and bank 2 around +6%

I really don't think this is a fuel/air issue so I'm about to rule out anything related to the fuel/air system and I am left with perhaps an engine that just had uneven compression or possibly intermittent valve issues that show up more at slow idle speed....

I have been troubleshooting a Code 22. I have an 87 but the car has an 89 Harness and A9L ECM, full MAF conversion.

-I checked the test harness ground and its good.
-I checked the resistance between the MAP/BAP connector, TPS connector, and EGR connectors (ground wires) and all checks good.
-Resistance from the BAP/MAP sensor plug to ground (neg battery terminal) is good.
-The BAP/MAP connector shows 5V with the ignition on, orange wire.
-All pointed to a bad sensor. My DVM doesn't read HZ so I took the chance.

-I swapped the MAP sensor for a new NAPA BAP sensor and no change to the codes.
-I had a bad experience with a bad/new EGR sensor and so I bought a second new BAP sensor "Standard" brand from O'reillys and no change to the codes.

-The A9L ECM was recently refurbished due to a couple burned pins caused by a burnt O2 sensor wire.

I am at a loss on what to check next. Maybe the ECM isn't getting the signal, a break in the wire somewhere?

Thanks,
Jason

Been working on the 5.0 latley
Bought a month ago
A few sensors replaced, CTS,CTsender,TFI

anyway bought the ford code reader and
Now have 23 TPS.
KOEO generated that
But KOER gets 98 then engine stops

have a small erratic idle
So….

I ended up trying to test TPS
I get 5V reference at Green wire (with Black on gnd)
I get 3-4V on Red Signal wire and cannot get Volts to change with throttle movement

I even swapped to green wire and same thing.

Im guessing now the TPS is toast and setting my hard code?? 98??

hate just throwing parts at it.
But I’m sure it’s OEM TPS.

thanks

Anyone know if there was a change to the drivers side shock tower on the 86 up models to accomodate the coil bracket??
Just purchased a newer bracket and when I hold it up to my 83 shock tower sheet metal, it sure doesn't look very " bolt on" to me?
thanks for any help....

So I’ve been having an issue with my 1992 5.0 for a while now. I’ll go through what all is done to it first. Explorer heads/intake, CAI, 24lb injectors/maf, 70mm tb and spacer, and POSSIBLY a cam. I haven’t been in the motor but it is from a different car. The issue I’m having is that if any throttle is applied, there is no response. In fact, it almost dies. Sometimes it does. Here’s what I have done. I’ve checked fuel pressure, it checked out, also used a smoke machine to check for leaks, solved all of them except for a leak in the EGR valve. There was little to no change. I’m really lost on what could be the issue and I’d love to hear some ideas. If anyone needs more details let me know!

Hi Guys Butch here from Canada--I am a novice at this I have a couple of questions---I am doing a head swap on my all original 1975 302 engine. I have accomplished a 2 bbl carb & manifold swap to a matching set of Edelbrock aluminum 4 bbl intake. Now I am about to do a head swap to a set of gt40p heads. The heads have been planed 12 thou to make them true--I am installing a set of headers new lifters and a new 2,5 inch exhaust what kind of hp and compression increase in general terms will I be looking at after all is complete--thanks

The American Autowire harness is not compatible with factory AC (due to fuse box placement/relocation) and the others I've seen are not complete or easy to install compared to the American Autowire harness. What is the best harnes for a 67 mustang with factory AC? Thanks!

Wanting to get a nice shift knob for my fox. Any reccomendations or pictures showing off your shift knob would be appreciated!

Hello everyone,

So I bought a 2004 Mach 1 as a bit of a project and it was quite the task getting it back up and running. But now im running into some tuning issues. So the guy who always tunes my mustangs is in the process of writing a tune for my Mach 1. Well when I bought the car, it had this bama chip installed in the PCM. I don’t want anything to do with bama, get it out of my car. The car runs fine but still, I want it out and I want a custom written tune. When I take the chip out of the PCM, the odometer goes to - - - - - - and the fuel pump does not prime, the car won’t run. My SCT X4 will not communicate with this PCM at all, chip in or out, my SCT X4 will not communicate. This is a Mach 1 PCM, SYM2. So I had a spare PCM laying around from a 2004 GT, a RKN2, so I figured I’d throw it in to see what happens. I’m aware of the slight differences in PCM’s but I figured I’d try it anyways. My SCT X4 now communicates with the vehicle perfectly with a GT PCM installed. The car runs with this PCM installed, but not well. But I have no idea if this GT PCM is on a stock tune or not, there’s no way to know since it came from MPS auto salvage when I did a 5 speed swap on a GT a few years ago. So what do I do? Is the PCM that came with my Mach 1 bricked? Do I buy a new Mach 1 PCM and have it tuned, take the bricked PCM to ford and have them reset it back to stock somehow, or tune over this GT PCM? Any advice is appreciated.

Hi everyone!

I recently won a (nearly) basket case 71 Mach 1 at auction but it has no interior. I’ve been searching the internet but haven’t been able to find seats for it yet. Can anyone point me to a company that sells aftermarket seat frames? It’s the sports interior if that matters. Thanks in advance!

Is it possible to set the timing at 6 degrees and not have the rotor pointing to #1 cylinder. I changed the intake gasket, followed every step by the original Ford Shop manual. It runs like it's out of time by one notch. Also my other question is which way does the carb spacer face ? Is the smoothe side up or the chambered side face up? I can't rember how it came off, I installed it with the chamber side up. It ran great before I installed the intake gaskets.

I first had a problem with the speedometer needle jumping to 100 when I went over 40mph. I tried greasing the cable by disconnecting at the speedometer and turning the cable with a drill to get any kinks out without disconnecting the other end going into the transmission!!!! Now, the cable spins really fast and the speedometer jumps to the max possible against a constraint .I have a tan 19 tooth gear that doesn't look worn and I am not sure if I damaged the other gear inside the transmission. Thoughts? Thanks

Good evening everyone this is my first post.

I have a 1992 ford mustang gt 5.0 5 speed.
This week my car developed a crank no start condition. Was running last week fine.
So far I have checked and confirmed.
Spark at coil.
Spark at plug.
Injector pulse.
38 psi fuel pressure.

I had the car towed to my house and it sat in my driveway for 2 days. It started (barely ran like crap) and I managed to pull it in my garage it idled for another 10 seconds and then died. Hasn't run since. Not even the slightest bit of trying to run. No one's home in the motor.
No recent motor work.
Looks original Motorcraft dizzy.

I know the infamous pip/tpi dizzy issues. However I don't see point of throwing a new dizzy at it if it has spark.

Thank you in advance,
Mark.

for anyone just joining the thread:
Doesn't start on ether.
Doesn't start when stout is pulled.
Only code is 63. (Tps voltage is at .30 when throttle closed)

New to the site but not Mustangs. I've had my 69 Mach1 since it was new. I'm a retired electrical engineer and created the first true schematic (not wire diagram) for the 69s and also the 66s (since they have the highest build number). If you have ever tried to figure out how something works from a wire diagram, then you will appreciated the simplicity of a schematic.

Quick question for 1987 owners. Does your tach have the spot for the CHeck engine light? Do you actually have the wording?


I know it’s present on my own 88, but wondering if it’s there on the 87s.

I’m making a video on enabling the CEL on 87-88 cars and want to verify some info first


Edit: I’m referring to v8 cars with the 7k tach

Ran across one today. Last one I sold was 10 years or so ago and I got $250 back then and it was actually the 2.0L version. Anyone know what the current price is for these bell housings?

Hello all,
I 've had a '96 Cobra for 2 years which I boufgt from the original owner and I now have 33K miles.
Other than oil do I need to change all fluids being a 25 year old car? I keep seeing this " all fluids changed"
when looking at older cars fir sale.