SOLD MAF, Intake Tube, A9L Computer

I have the OEM intake tube, airbox coupler, and MAF i was going to use on my MAF swap.

Also have the A9L computer I was going to use for the same swap.

Intake Tube, MAF - $50
A9L computer - $250

Buyer pays shipping. Any questions please ask.

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I need help please!

I’m very confused on what to do and sometimes I have troubles explaining things so sorry in advance guys! So I got my hands on a 85 fox body mustang. I don’t know much about the building world but it really interests me. It has the 5.0 GT motor and it’s a 5 speed manual. I don’t know much about it however it’s a carbureted one. I bought it off my uncle after he blew the trans. It has shortie headers and dual exhaust don’t know much else. When buying the transmission I didn’t do A LOT of research I just knew I wanted to achieve at least 500-600hp so I instantly went and searched for a transmission which could hold it. I ended up finding and buying the Tremec TKO 500. However I didn’t realize I would maybe have to swap out the rear end to match with that transmission. Like I said I don’t know a whole lot of the more in depth side of it. It fast but it seems like it tops out quick and doesn’t want to push further at a certain speed but it feels sluggish to me and seems like it’s reving high. The speed cable isn’t hooked up yet so I can’t tell which speed or rpm’s I’m at right at the moment.. so for the sound of the revs that it’s giving and the speed it’s possibly going it feels like there’s still a little more it could give on the top end and that’s where it feels sluggish. It has no problem getting up to speed which is fun. It just doesn’t feel like it’s giving the same amount of juice it sounds like it could while being at said rpm’s. it kicks sideways and will burn the tires from dead stop but only a light strip a few feet I like to see it a little darker so would even setting in a different rear end give it more power to the tires? The backs are 265 width with 17” rim but I just can’t remember the sidewall maybe 45 maybe 50 not at the car right now and its 11pm while raining. I want it fuel injected, and I don’t know what I want to do if to rebuild that one and convert it or just get another motor and swap. I’m very lost. Any help would be greatly appreciated if you guys can make since of my rambling on haha.. thanks!

Electrical Relays with diodes

So I have the much disrespected cobra 75 wiring loom. I was told to put relays with diode protection built I. When I switch them out I now blow fuse 18 factory fuse. Why? I put the tycos back in and at least I can start the car. This fuse is got tons of stuff on it. Head lamp . Cigar lighter , speed sensor. And I can't do diagnostics without that circuit. What does the diode change? Mustang 5.0 from 1990

Quick question regarding the rear of the block

Hello, I am rebuilding my spare 302 that I have in my garage, and I'm trying to strip the block as much as I can for the machine shop.

I'm at the point where I'm cleaning up the back side of the block and I'm wondering what those square plugs(?) are for, and whether or not I need to take them out and replace them. You can see them circled in my picture.

Lastly, the middle cover there, is it an expansion plug that I can just take out like the rest of them?

Apologies for the noob questions, but I'm learning as I go.

Thanks

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Interior and Upholstery Center Console E Brake Handle - Seal and Retaining Ring Failure

The e brake handle seal and retaining ring have come off the center console top on my Coupe. I fished them out and then remembered how easy it is to get the top off and removed it. The plastic studs on the center console top are all gone (read broke) that hold the retaining ring on. Has anyone reattached the seal without those plastic studs and if so how? I have always wanted the cup holders so buying a new cover would be the easy way out (sans painting it black) but seems like this comes up alot yet I cannot find anything but one youtube video where a guy uses 3M tape. In the comments in that video he does state that two years later the tape started to fail.

Login to view embedded media View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gARS_5F61c

Desperate help needed

2005 Mustang Gt premium, 5 Speed manual, 143K miles, Roush CAI, MSD Coils, fuel injectors 3 yrs old, BBK catted X-Pipe, Muffler delete…

So, I drive to Walmart the other day and everything was fine. I start my car afterwards and I hear a valve tick. It was time for an oil change so I thought that may be why the ticking was there. I pull out of the parking spot, and as I press the gas, it stuttered so bad, the car was almost bucking…

I start limping it home and after 2 minutes of that, it ran decently. It still was not at full power, maybe 80% power, but the bucking and huge hesitation was gone.

I run the codes and got a bunch. See pictures.

After reading some forums, I see that one of the codes could be caused by bad diodes from the alternator. I replaced the alternator and cleaned the codes. Car still did the same thing. Idled great, but as soon as I go to drive it, it hesitates and bucks. I
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changed the Cam Positioning Sensor on Bank 1 (passenger side), still same thing. I changed my oil, MAF Sensor, Fuel Filter. Still same thing… idles great… as soon as I go into first gear and give it gas, it grumbles, hesitates, and bucks.

Please help….

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Electrical Fog Light Lamp end Pigtail

Hope everyone is doing well?

Well I have a quick question and dont know what forum to post this one. Just what the title says. I cant seem to locate the pigtail connections that connect to the fog lights.
I have New fog lamps but someone cut out the connectors from the wiring harness. Does anyone know where to get these? They are oval and male ends.

Thanks!

-Rick

I fought the law.....and I won!

The other SSP I bought in September had been off the road since 2004. After I got it I checked with DMV about switching the title to my name etc. and man did I get a shock! The DMV lady tells me "There are back taxes to 2004 and you owe $6309.24". Holy crap! In Hawaii, if you stop driving your car (which the previous owner did) and you don't surrender the plates (which the previous owner did not do) the taxes pile up, year after year, and the DMV will not let you register or transfer title until you pay all the past tax. Well, I decided I was not gonna just fork over 6k for absolutely nothing, so I filed a motion in court against the city director of finance disputing the tax. I showed through previous recorded mileage in 2002 compared to the odometer now that almost no miles were put on. Since the car was not using city or state roads, it should not have been subject to taxation. I also showed pictures of the car with no engine etc. Today was my hearing and the Judge was very understanding of the situation and he ruled in my favor waving ALL past tax. What a relief.

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Drivetrain Trans fluid pouring out of AOD tailshaft

Just did a tranny service on my '93 AOD (filter/gasket/chrome pan). Got about 6 quarts in and I hear it leaking underneath. It's pouring out between the tailshaft and inside of seal! The front end is raised up. Tell me it's just because I have the driveshaft removed.....please! I'm not a big auto trans expert. Is that normal or do I have an issue?

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Engine Codes 31,34,35, etc. help

Just pulled the codes on my foxbody. It’s throwing codes 4 and 8(cylinder misfires?). Also codes 31, 34, 35, 64, 45, and 95. I have deleted the smog pump and equipment. The lower intake and upper is typhoon.

It has inconsistent idle, smells VERY rich, dies out on idle sometimes or when in neutral while turning etc. Idle drops very low and fights to stay on.

Any guidance on what it’s throwing?

Fitting a Milodon 8-qt oil pan

I've been asked before what it takes to fit the Milodon 8-qt oil pan into a II. The answer, surprisingly, isn't much.

The first thing you need to do is ensure you're running a low-profile intake manifold and air cleaner, unless you want to cut the hood.

Then you will need to replace the stock starter with the compact design from the 1993-1995 Mustang 5.0 (or 3.8, they used the same starter).

You may or may not need a Dorman starter shim for Ford starters (I did).

You will need longer bolts that go through the motor mounts and into the block, as well as either a 3/4" thick stack of washers or 3/4" spacers for each bolt between the mount and the block.

That's it. It'll clear a power or manual rack with all of that done.

This may have a negative effect on your u-joint geometry, and your experience may vary.
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Stiffer front springs writeup from the old .net site

Since this subject was recently brought up, here's an article from the old .net site about swapping/upgrading front springs. This is a copy and paste so as to not lose the info if the web.archive site lets it expire or goes down. That link is here. Posting so it can be added to the tech sticky.

Stiffer Front Springs by Mark Mitchel
When I first got my 1975 V8 Ghia I was surprised how much it leaned in the corners. This just really detracted from enjoying the car as anything more than a mundane commuter’s ride. As a former stock car racer this situation with the rocker panels threatening to scrape the asphalt in the corners, and the lumbering “ocean motion” ride that went with it, just became increasingly annoying. My preference is a firmer ride with a responsive, flatter, cornering ability. Besides, don’t tell anyone, but from time-to-time, when I’m alone on a winding country road, I like to pretend I’m at Daytona duking it out in a side-by-side race with Dale Earnhardt, Jr.

My initial attempt at a cure was to install the big front and rear sway bars offered on the Cobra II and some other models as an option. The biggest factory sway bars are a 1-inch for the front and a ¾-inch in the rear. With these installed things improved a lot. But, like everything else in life, if some is good, more sure would be a lot better.

So my research began.

What I learned was that the factory—in its attempt to create a pleasant and gentle noise-free ride for grandma—used very soft springs in the Mustang II. So I decided to improve on things some—Lee Iacoca didn’t get it all right, though I personally think Charlie Kemp did. First, I removed one of the stock front springs and put it in a coil spring rater: 350 lbs. per inch. If you don’t race stock cars you wouldn’t know, but this is a really, really soft spring. If I remember correctly the front springs in the early Mustang V8 cars from around 1965 to 1968 were about 450 lbs. per inch. After much sleuthing at a friend’s Fords Only wrecking yard (don’t you just love the name?) I found a super cheap alternative. I got a pair of coil springs from the front of a 1980 V8 Thunderbird. Even thought the car uses a strut type front-end the coil spring is the right diameter and the wire size is bigger—it’s just way too long. So like many things in a Mustang II owner’s life it would need some modification before it would fit. I used an air powered die grinder with a cutoff wheel and started shortening the spring a little at a time; checking the rate and ride height of my car as I went along. Now if you’re really good at it you can use a cutting torch, though it’s not recommended because the heat takes the temper out of the spring and the cut ends up pretty jagged. Anyway, after some experimentation I finally arrived at the point where I had shortened the spring to 12¼ inches in free height. This spring had a 475 lbs. per inch rate and lowered the front-end of my Ghia about ½ inch.

The results: there was no noticeable change in the ride except in the corners. Now the car had much less lean and responded more quickly, and decisively, to steering inputs.

Just so you know racing coil springs, either for road racing or stock cars, generally have a rate of somewhere between 750 to 1000 lbs. per inch. A stiff front spring on the street would be around 650 lbs. per inch and then the ride would start to become a little rough and choppy. When I put a pair of 650 lb. springs in my lovingly revamped ’65 Mustang my girlfriend said it rode like a “dump truck”—she’s gone now.

Like most do-it-yourself articles that encourage you to take the initiative, and be self-reliant, this one also comes with a caveat or warning. Life is short and being maimed—or, your untimely death—can really take the fun out of owning a Mustang II. If you are going to replace the front springs in your car use a coil spring compressor. Lots of tool rental places have them. Even though the springs in your Mustang II seem really soft and it looks as if you can pry them out with a crowbar DON’T EVEN TRY! The energy stored is those springs—even when the car is jacked up with no weight on the suspension—is unbelievable. If you could get one to pop loose, it would explode from the spring pocket, tear up the fender on its way out and still fly across the garage with enough force to really hurt someone. Besides, chances are your girlfriend actually likes the way you look with all your teeth.

Overall, changing the front springs is a day of dirty work, but I am very happy with my car’s ride and improved cornering ability now. And, I don’t expect, or want, everything to be clean and easy. If I did I would have paid someone to build me a Camaro. Isn’t that a pathetically sad thought?

Specialized Tools Needed:
  • Coil Spring Compressor
  • Ball Joint Removal Tool (“Pickle Fork”)
  • Air Die Grinder with Cutoff Wheel (“Cutoff Wheel”)
  • Chilton’s or Motor’s Auto Repair Manual (My 1977 Chilton’s has a subsection titled “Bobcat*Mustang II*Pinto” In there is a segment called “Spring Replacement”)

    And:
  • The motivation to make your Mustang II even better
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89 Mustang breaks up at 2K

Helping a friend with his 89 5.0. Completely stock except for off road H pipe and air pupm delete.

Problems started with the engine bucking/missing and the car would die. Got to a point it would sometimes start but die quickly after. Then to a usually wouldn't start situation.

A new distributor/TFI was put in along with a new coil and ignition switch. He also put in a new fuel pressure regulator.

I looked at it more today. Did a spark test and found there was none......except sometimes when the engine would start and run for a few seconds. I happened to pull the spout connector out and start it during testing.

With spout out it ran in the garage without a hitch. I locked the timing at 25, spout out, and took it for a drive. Runs smooth except it breaks up ONLY around 2K RPM. Its ok above and below 2K.

TPS sensor seems to have a smooth arc as best that my meter shows.

Only code 11 with engine off

Engine running codes are 18, 44, and 94. However, something the code reader did made the engine shut down before test was over. Removed code reader and engine runs fine except for 2K issue.

Anyone have any ideas on where to go from here?

87Mustang fuel tank/pump assembly fitment

New LMR tank and hanger assembly with 255 lph pump. When I set the hangar assembly in the tank with the sock aligned in the sump, the bottom hits the tank bottom and it won’t sit fully inside without force. I got it in and the lock ring on, but will it cause issues with the bottom of the pump/sock sitting tight on the floor of the tank? Fuel starvation?

Dash replacement, airbag light flashing?

ok so im replacing the dashboard on my 2008 mustang gt deluxe right, and im taking the radio and the climate controls and the airbags and steering wheel asssembly ETC...(when i say i took the steering wheel assembly apart i mean steering wheel , clock spring assembly, the plastic trim, everything but the attached column). and i get this nice donor dash in no hiccups and im like thank god finally something went right. and then all the sudden after i turn on the car i notice the airbag lights on and i have no traction control anymore, weird. so this leads me to belive that its the clockspring. other things that lead me to belive this are the fact that since ive gotten the car, the horn has not worked, even after replacing the steering wheel the lights would come on the steering wheel but wouldn't work. my airbag light is flashing in a sequence 1-10. and ive just replaced the airbags due to recall. OH and i had a code for one of the switches next to it. it was high curcuit voltage for one of the switches idr which one. but i say all this just to ask for advice, is it the clockspring or should i look further?

Mustang help

Hey y’all I’m in need of some advice. A week back my transmission on my 2004 3.9 v6 5spd mustang blew and I’ve been trying to find a new one or just a replacement that isn’t over 2k, I keep seeing T50 transmissions for sale and I was wondering if that would even fit in the vehicle but I’ve also been told the right transmission was a T5 transmission so I’m just looking for some clarity in this whole mess of a situation so please help me
What an awesome community!

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