@jrichker was born in 1946, in Texas, graduated with honors from the U.S. Air Force Technical College at Sheppard AFB, and later obtained his Pastoral Degree. He served his country during Vietnam and in his later years told his family that he would do it all over again for his country. He was a retired IT Specialist from the Carl Vinson VA Medical Center. He enjoyed his pastoral duties including writing sermons and teaching the Bible. He also enjoyed rebuilding older and antique Mustangs, repairing and rebuilding computers, woodworking, building furniture, construction, history, cooking, and spending time with his family and beloved pets.


@jrichker passed away Thursday, October 6th 2022

He is survived by his wife, sister, 4 children, 14 grandchildren, and two great-grandchildren.


JR was selfless during the time that he was on Stangnet. He would do his damnedest to help somebody out. Even, if all he got back from them was some kind of static.


He will be missed. His Crank No Start Checklist and Surging Idle Checklists are [HUGE] gifts to this forum. He will still be helping folks out here for as long as the lights stay on.

Hello everyone.. I dont think I've posted here before but apparently I had a account lol. Anyway i have been working on my fox recently and put together a little combo that i hope will be fun. I have a 1987 5 0 gt vert. So far it's got mac shorty unequal headers, o/r h pipe with FM super 44's dumped. I have installed a cai with inner fenderwell filter, ported explorer lower and opened up upper to match 70mm tb. It has stock e7 heads with crane cobra 1.7 roller rockers on stock cam.(speed density) The car is a aod car so I installed 4:10 rear gears, pa street/strip vb, transgo hi rev governer, and just put in a nonlockup edge racing 9.5" 3500 stall. Have not driven the car yet since the converter and the hi rev governer. Hoping itll feel better then it did b4. The car felt decent for a aod car with all but the intake and tb and converter and hi rev wondering how much difference I can expect with the updated combo.. not looking to do heads anytime soon bc I have a supercharger I will be adding in the spring.. any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks...

Does anybody know of a source for a new FTP sensor for an '03 GT? Apparently these things are unobtainium from Ford and in the aftermarket and of course my GT's in need of one. I know I could probably try a salvage yard, but I run the risk of being in the same boat as I am now. The labor involved for this is not something I want to do twice, know what I mean?

I just picked up a 86 5.0 with a bad t5. My buddy has one from a 93 ranger 2 wheel drive. Is it bolt in swap. Thx. First post.

Having trouble getting my my82 out of my car. I took all the hoses and wire harnesses off. Shifter is free from the inside of the car. Pulled 8 bolts off bell housing including those two MFers at the very top that requires me to link together 7 extensions. Trans is about an inch away from the engine but cannot get it to come out any further. Any ideas?

New to forum from FL. 2002 GT stone stock 157K. Very familiar with modifying and working on the SN/Fox?new edge cars. Would like to share what I can, Ford Tech(engine(gas)) for the late 90's through 2012. thanks

2002 GT 3.55 gears, shortys , CAI, SCTX4 tuner and lowered. Timing chain guide(s) let go, just noisy so engine is coming out. I know there are better but these 2 are readily available. Looking for real world experience and driveability information and of course power output. Thanks in advance.

Hello!

I am reaching the tail end of replacing the motor on my girlfriend's 2002 mustang with the 3.8 v6. (one of the pistons decided it no longer wanted to be inside the engine and vacated through a couple holes.) We found a 1997 block and swapped the top end from the 2002 to the 1997 block to keep the computer happy. The only issue we've run into are that the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft synchronizer have different plugs. Can we simply swap the sensors out with the ones from the block we pulled? Or is there another solution we need to do this?

Thank you in advance!

1996 GT auto. Isn't she pretty....
Some light front end damage, but it drives fine. Way too many Cobra panels on her for me. I think the old panels will fix up ok though.

I have a friend who has a small towing business and he winds up with cars that just sit in his field. He gets it in his head to clear it out from time to time. He has this 1968 GT 4 speed 302 with the signal light hood. He says he has the glass and interior too. He told me someone offered him $3500 for the car. I said it has to be worth $5000. He told me I was number 1 in line, which means if I have 5000 he'll dig it out of the lot and deliver it to my house. What do you think?

I have a N/A 331 stroker in my 86 GT. It has GT40 heads and I’m using Autolite 104 plugs, but I think the 104’s are too cold. What would be a hotter plug I could use? I’d like to try something the heat range 4. Any suggestions?

Hey guys I just installed a new coil over kit that included upper/lower rear control arms. The rear is super bouncy when driving on uneven surfaces. I did not reinstall the quad shocks as I understood that with upgraded control arms they aren’t needed? Any help would be greatly appreciated to help me figure this out

I am putting up StangNet's 67 Fastback project up for sale. I have way too many projects and feel this car needs to move on to a home that will finish the project. This is the only remaining Flashback that was offered by Classic Design Concepts. All tooling was destroyed or shipped to Australia. We have over 300 hours of body work done to the new Dynacorn body to get all lines perfect. It has been refaced (surface primer) and blocked 3 times and cut in with Guardsman Blue paint. Tons of parts go with the project for whomever picks her up. Serious inquires only please, this is a perfectionists build.

BODY
Started with new Dynacorn Body
Full CDC Flashback body kit
Fiberglass parts smoothed, trimmed and fitted
Gaps worked - metal added or removed
300 Hours bodywork, Upol refaced and blocked 3 times
Cut in with Guardsman Blue (paint included in purchase)
Body seams wiped in many locations
C Panels smoothed and indented
Cowl vents wiped
Engine bay - towers notched and wiped extra holes
Underneath texturized and body colored
Needs one more blocking and final fitting before paint after powertrain install

INSTALLED PARTS
RRS front coil-over suspension installed
RRS rear 3-Link Suspension installed
Curry 9" 3.70 gears installed in new housing
New fuel tank

MISC PARTS INCLUDED
Full CDC Flashback Interior panels/console
RRS Big Disc Brakes Front/Rear and Front Spindles
Front and Rear Windshields
Fastback Rear Seat Assembly
Misc Lights
Black Carpeting
Steering Column
Rear Tail lights
Total Control Front Strut Brace
Steering Rack
Fastback Interior Hatch panel
IDidIt Steering column
Many more misc parts

Some math
Dynacorn Body - $17k
CDC Flashback Body Kit - $7k
CDC Interior Kit - $7k
RRS Front Suspension/Brakes - $7k
RRS Rear Suspension/Brakes - $7k
Misc Parts Included - $$$
Body Work and Paint - $$$

== Over $60k

The hard part has been done, getting body prepped, fitted and perfected. Now it just needs the hobbyist to put a powertrain together, then have final paint applied.

ASKING $41K

Location: Auburn, AL

So I have a low mileage 95GT five speed that i purchased new but have been parked for 20 years or so with very little use. Car has apprx 50,000Km on the clock and is near mint condition and is bone stock except for a catback exhaust and 3.73 gears. I recently got the urge to get back into driving this car and the wonderful world of "old school 5.0". With that decision I have purchased the complete Trick Flow Street heat upper engine kit complete with TFS stage one cam. I've been out of this world for a very long time raising the family and such so Im pretty much starting off fresh again learning about this 27 year old car. I once knew this stuff inside and out in terms of parts need to go fast, bought every magazine i could find to learn and grow this car. Well along came kids, house and all that goes with that and here i am with my 27 year old GT just as i left her parked about 20 years ago in bay 2 of my garage.

So onto some questions to get started:

1. With this TFS engine kit im assuming I will need larger injectors, fuel pump, MAF meter, TB etc. Would anyone here know what combination would provide me the most reliable and drivable experience while netting good power from the TFS kit.

2. With the combination advised from #1, is there a need for a tuning device such as Tweecer or am i better off just getting it tuned at a shop with a dyno. I will say Dyno tuning is likely gonna be difficult to find close to me so "self" tuning appeals to me more....assuming the tuners are affordable and the info is available and not impossible for a 50 year old guy to learn the process. I am by trade a instrumentation and controls tech with lots of experience around oil and gas controls and PLC's so not scared of programming and PC's.

3. If self tuning is advised, what is the best product available and used for the EEC-IV in my 95GT.

I guess we will start with that and thanks in advance any help provided. Pic attached of my car before it was lowered recently.

Hi, I am new to this forum and am looking to change out my steering wheel on my 2009 GT, but I'm wanting to swap it with a 66-72 wheel and I was wondering how simple that would be or if possible at all.

I am curious about whether or not there is a larger spoiler like on my 2009 GT premium on any of the 2010 or 2011 models. Seems I have seen a photo of larger one on those two years but can''t remember or find again. Any suggestions or links? Thank you.

Hey. I’m new to this. I currently have an 02 GT. Currently located in central California.

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Does anyone know if the BMR Premium K-member will fit with a Moroso 20511 7 quart oil pan on my 347.
I had to notch my stock K-member and now want to ditch it and replace it with the BMR K-member.
BMR does not have information on all aftermarket oil pan clearance issues.

not new to the mustang world. Been on corral and SVTP for almost 20 years. I lost my old login for this website so I'm back as a noob.
Anyway, hope to learn and contribute equally.

So any secrets to get to the top nut on my rear shocks in a 83 Convertible??
Looked in my Factory manual and it said nothing.... Tried to come through the trunk and the canvas protector that holds the top when its down is in the way...
What if I remove the rear seat?

I have a few questions I have a 02 3.8l and wanted to know if I can use an after market K member that says it fits the 4.6l from what I have researched it does but wanted to confirm.

Another question is: Is the K member the same between the 99 convertible 3.8l as a 2002 3.8l coupe. With my 3.8l coupe I bent the k member and a partially on the frame rail about .5 inches and might need to switch over suspension, my upgraded diff and motor/transmission into a vert 3.8l shell if all parts would be the same.

Hello all! Glad to be part of the community again. Just picked up a 87 gt vert after being out of the game for 15 years! Glad to be back at it and hoping someone can help me with issues dealing with this aod nightmare I'm currently living. This is my 7th fox but first aod and so far it's not been good..

I have a 66 with a swapped 250. I'm having starting issues that I think may be pump related. I replaced the filters and still can't get it to start. I put a clear fuel filter in and it barely has any fuel in it after turning it over for a few minutes. Also, when I try to start, the starter cable from the solenoid to the starter gets really hot. Smoke actually comes from the cable at the solenoid.

Alright, was tinkering of the fox, looking for stuff to fix. Fixed the door chime. Decided to test out my ODB1 scanner because I never used it. Got code 11, great! then I got code 15.. not so great. Pulled the ecu thinking the ecu had a chip on it, nope.. In fact, I am 99% sure This is the first time the kick panel or ecu had ever been off. Checked for 12v at the connector " bottom right opposite side the locating tabs right?" and it has 12 v. That's where I stopped. I have another ecu on the shelf, it's for when I stick shift swap the car, but I kinda wanna confirm my issues before I start changing things. What else can I check? Did I check the right pin? I left the lights on the other day and drained the battery, would that cause it?