I have a couple of 1st generation mustangs
#1 is a 1965 convertible
#2 is a 1966 convertible
#3 is a 1965 fastback
#4 is a 1986 GT
#5 is a 1965 cobra kit (factory 5 )with a 5.0
I am having a little problem with #2 a short in the turn signal switch.it’s new just installed but the new 1s hotel out also.
please help this guy out running out of options.not sure how to locate shorts

I took my 1991 5.0 LX for a ride tonight she ran awesome lots of power smooth like butter shifting. It's when I got home I pulled into the garage to park her and I had to back up so I popped the clutch and i stalled it. Was just trying to line it up so I can get 2 Cars in the garage. I went to start it and it cranks over but will not start. I don't know why ? Help needed please....

My first post.
My car is a Factory five cobra with a 5.0 and 5 speed. I Just installed a Stinger Pimp ECM.The car ran great but all of a sudden it started to cut out. As I would start to pull over it would turn back on and continued to do it.When I got home I started it again and could hear the starter was still engaged. I checked some posts here and found the ignition switch problem. I pulled the switch and found the clips were loose as in the post. I figured the contacts were coming apart causing both problems.
I got a new switch and installed it, Same problem. With all the crappy Chinese parts around I tried another switch. Same thing. I checked the starter solenoid and it check OK. Since it was 30 years old, I replaced it anyway. Any Ideas?
Thanks in advance for any help.

Hey sorry if I end up having missed something super obvious I’m young and dumb lol. So my 95 5.0 has an oil pan gasket leak. I went by the Haynes manual and removed everything needed as far as I can tell, and it says to lift the engine about 2 inches to get clearance to pull the pan. I’m to a point where I’ve lifted it as high as 4.5-5 inches and still can’t get clearance from the bottom of the engine. I don’t have the knowledge to identify the part of the engine that’s blocking it but it’s the lowest point of the engine sitting in the front side of the pan. I can offer some very terrible pictures if it’ll help. Any advice on this? Thank you!

One of the viewers of my YT channel commented that I never showed the LED light conversion at night.
Then I thought...heck I haven't had it out at night.
So I went for a ride around the block last night and made this short video.

Login to view embedded media View: https://youtu.be/bv0ULZelE-I

What brand of PIP / hall effect sensor / distributor pick up coil are you guys using? I cannot for the life of me find a Motorcarft unit and about the only thing I am seeing that I would possibly trust is a Standard Ignition LX222T.

Hello all. Have seen this site a few times and found answers to questions regarding my engine build for my 95 GT. Felt like I needed to join.

Hey guys. New member here! I just bought an 89 Lx v8 car and it’s missing a bunch of stuff. My main question right now is I noticed ecm is missing. I don’t really care because I’m either gonna build a carb motor or use a fitech. I’m trying to make sure that everything else in the car will work without it…lights gauges etc. also do I need all this wiring under the hood? I’m thinking I should probably just pull the whole harness and put something like a painless one in it. Any help would be appreciated

Car last ran 4 years ago, and spent the majority of the last 20 years stored outside in Georgia. My friend who drove it last said the fuel pump died. I dropped the tank today and found this. Everything inside is rusted out. Not unexpected, but now I'm guessing the hard fuel lines are shot as well. Agree, or worth it to test/inspect? I had already ordered the rubber lines to replace those, but if I need to replace hard lines, what is the best kit and source? I can return the rubber lines I bought from LMR for their kit, unless there is a better option... Should I also worry about the injectors? Anything else with the fuel system to replace or check?

has anybody replaced the big silencer,in the inlet pipe,on these cars? would big pvc pipe work? thanks

thanks for my membership. fort worth texas here.

The attached pic has the wire loom coming over the top of the windshield wiper motor?
Shouldn't it be over the top of the booster but under the wiper motor?
Getting close to installing my new booster and I don't want to have to do it twice if I get the wire loom wrong..

I bought an complete instrument cluster, because it had a KPH speedometer. So there was a spare tachometer to work with, without having fear to destroy it.

I removed it from the instrument cluster. The complete tachometer consists of three main parts:
- circuit board (which the 4 wire plug from the harness goes to); this is a frequency voltage converter, which means that the signal from the coil is transformed to a DC voltage which shows in dependency from cylinder number the RPM on the tachometer
- the tachometer itself (which is connected by two wires [red and black] with the circuit board)
- the white plastic housing which all parts are bolted to

First step: jack up your car... wait that is not needed.
Remove 2 bolts from the front side (they connect the tachometer with the plastic housing).
Remove 2 bolts at the back of the plastic housing, that is near the plug (see circle in picture); the two bolts hold the circuit board tight at the housing.


Now you can remove the housing (be patient, perhaps you need to push from the backside onto the four pins of the plug to get the circuit board removed from the housing; remember that the circuit board is connected with two wires to the tachometer, so the board can not be separated together with the housing)
If the housing is removed this is what it looks like (two arrows show the red and black wire; circles show the nuts on the board, where the screws on the backside bolt to):

The conversion works only from lower cylinder number to higher cylinder number. The V6 tacho shows with a V8 following RPM: RPMv6tacho=8/6*RPMreal. Means if your V8 is running at idle with 800RPM the V6 shows 8/6*800=1066 RPM. To get a lower reading on the tacho, you need to reduce DC voltage (red and black wire) at the tachometer. This can be done, with an addition resistor that is put into red wire (this is why you need to step up cylinder count, because you cannot increase the voltage easily, but reduce it with a resistor).
I cut up the red wire and elongated both ends so that the are outside of the housing to be able to put in a resistor or in my case to use a adjustable resistor like this:

I removed the dash cover and you can unplug the harness that goes to the installed original tacho, when everything is installed: The harness has enough wire length to move it over the whole assembly and put in the modified tachometer. Than it looks like this:


With a friend on the timing light (which has a tachometer function) and some engine running at different speeds, some yelling and some turning on the adjustable resistor it came out, that you need around 650 Ohms to have the right reading (V6 tacho with V8 engine; will be different if you use R4 tacho).
We tested at idle and at speeds of 2000/3000/4000RPM and it is not more off than 100 RPMs.

Now I need to decide if I will remove the elongated wires and solder in a normal/fixed 650 Ohm resistor or leave the elongated wires outside, that I'm able to adjust if needed without removal of the whole instrument cluster.
I also found out, that you can reach the pin (which you need to push to remove the light switch) from above when the dash is removed.
I will make some more pictures and write how to install the modified tachometer into the instrument cluster.
If something is unclear please ask, you know that I'm not a native speaker.

Installing some new wiring and newer connectors in my 83 and where the factory connectors allowed 2 wires on one side of the connectors, my new weatherpack connectors will not... Are there any types of mechanical splices besides " U Haul" trailer garbage I could use?? Trying to do this correctly....
Any help here please.......

What’s up all….. New this forum…… recently purchased a 91 lx hatch, with minor mods……. Cobra upper and lower, cam, msd, exhaust etc……there’s a surge and hesitation at low rpm but when you get on it it’s strong. There’s also a intermittent CEL which seems to only come on after getting on it, if just cruising and being easy on it, it won’t come on. I pulled 2 codes, 81 and 85……. I ordered a AID solenoid and purge canister solenoid…..also ordered a new tps……. Car has no cats……I’m unsure of vacuum routing and what needs to be there and doesn’t need to be there, as there’s a few things capped and rerouted etc. there’s so much info on here that it’s tough to wrap my head around where to start with this issue….. any input ?

So
On an earlier post,
I thought I had it resolved by battery disconnect and reconnect
S
Thought I had it after cleaning a buncha engine grounds…

NOPE

so today I ran in town, she came up to operating tent..
Then wouldn’t start after…

So now I figure I got a
‘Won’t restart when hot ‘ issue

So after all these problems I have had. All the money I have spent. I decided to pull computer out. Please tell me this is the problem. The first picture looks like corrosion. But idk what a bad one looks like. Is this bad?

Hey guys,

I'm asking for a little insight into a problem we are having with Scarlet...1986 5.0 Lx all stock.

Yesterday during a drive the temp and fuel gauge bottomed out. When turning the key to run without the engine started they both read high. The actual engine temp was about 190°. When the car is started they both drop to cold and E. We went through the EVTM and found the fuel and temp have separate grounds...obviously because the temp grounds at the engine and sending unit by the hatch latch. The only common side is the wire from the ignition switch through the cluster voltage regulator.

The issue is the cluster gauges only have power in run and accessory. Key turned on is run...whether the actual car is running or not. That circuit shouldn't change. The alternator is putting out 13v with headlights and fog lights on.

Has anyone here seen this issue and fixed it ?

We are ordering a new cluster voltage regulator regardless. I haven't checked voltage at the cluster connector or ignition switch yet. Should be a black w/ light green wire.

Usually, a bad voltage regulator will cause gauges to flicker or not work at all. I guess in some weird way it could heat up and fail when the car is started due to the alternator putting out more voltage.

The Ol' Lady really wants to drive it and my time might be a little limited until the end of November.

Hey all, I’m shopping for an 8.8 for my fox and I found this on Facebook market place. The guy doesn’t know if it’s an 8.8 or what year it comes from. He says 94-04. Can anyone tell me how to identify? Or just identify for me with this pic?

Also, will 94-98 mustang rear ends all bolt up to my fox?

Im having some issues with my 95 GT. It was running, albeit not very well but driveable, and then I noticed the EGR valve was missing one of the two nuts that hold it onto the manifold,. The other nut was loose, so there was a large gap between the valve and the manifold where I presume air would be able to freely enter the intake. I removed the valve and cleaned it, and checked the diaphragm before reinstalling it with new hardware so it makes a complete seal with the manifold. However after this, the car cant hold and idle for the life of it. It will run for 30 seconds or so after a cold start, then the rpms will start to dip and then overcompensate until it eventually cant catch itself in time and stalls unless I give it some gas. I have recently replaced a lot of sensors before this problem even started, so I'm running out of ideas.
What has been recently replaced:
New O2 Sensors
New MAF Sensor
Both temp sensors/sender
ACT sensor cleaned
EGR valve cleaned
New fuel pump
New fuel filter
Air Filter cleaned

I was able to pull codes both with the engine off and with it on (it was able to keep alive during the self test) and got a few EGR related codes as well as codes 314 and 311 (Secondary Air injection system banks 1&2 inop during KOER test) and code 177 (heated o2 Sensors bank 2 - mixture rich). Given that I have already replaced my O2 and MAF sensors, could this be a fuel pressure issue where the fuel pressure is too high and the only reason it wasn't doing this before I fixed my EGR valve was because unmetered air was being freely drawn in? I also just patched the vacuum lines that ran to the EGR valve and the two that ran to the smog pump output tube. Weirdly enough I tried seeing what the engine would do if I stuck the EGR valve open so I just bypassed the EGR regulator so that line gets a constant vacuum, and it is able to idle with the EGR valve open. Isn't that backwards? From what I've read the only way an EGR valve should be able to stall an engine is by being stuck OPEN not stuck closed.

I know that was a long post but if anyone read through it all and has any suggestions I would be very grateful. Im kinda a loss here.

Howdy, hoping someone knows more than I do about exhaust gas temps. I have six cylinders in the 400-600 range and 1 and 4 are running at 100. This is at warmed up idle temps . Any thoughts ? I'm leaning towards valve adjustment .

Searched and searched and believe it or not all the old wheel threads are gone or MIA. Reason for the post is I was looking to see if anyone has Enkei PF09's on a Fox Body and could not find them on one on any of the sites. My car started with some old school Centerlines back in 2000 when I bought the car. Buddy had them on his and wanted new ones so I got them for a good deal.

Crappy picture but it was all I could find they are so outdated:



Upgraded to five lug a couple years later via the Mark VII rotors and Ranger rear axles and went to the '97 Cobra wheels:



Changed over to the SN95 Cobra brakes and kept the Cobra wheels for a few years and then in 2012 I went to the Bullitt style wheels:



Then this year I decided it was time for a new set and settled on the Enkei PF09's. Ordered them in February and finally got them this past weekend:



Anyhow, post 'em up!

What will happen if you overfill your power steering pump?
1986 5.0 GT - shredded a belt and only thing I did was eliminate AC, move PS up, put new belt on and re-filled reservoir?
Looks like oil has sprayed out of top, but PS was working fine.

Been looking (most likely not hard enough) and was curious of there was a wheel thread already started on here? Just nice to go to one spot and see what everyone is running.

Hello everyone! I know there is discussion about the trunk leaks. How do I drain the water out of the rear fender wells?