Engine Removing EGR Valve from Phlenum

Hope, this has not been asked or answered. How do I safely remove the EGR spacer from the Phlenum? I've soaked the four bolts on the spacer for two days and they will not turn. Used the method suggested by Matt on the Youtube Vid.

Also, whats the stock size for the EGR Spacer?


Login to view embedded media View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QJwal5Cl2k

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Significant Vibration After Clutch Replacement

I just replaced my Fly Wheel, Pressure Plate, Clutch Disk, Pilot Bearing, Throw out Bearing, Pitch Fork and Stud, on my 93 LX 5.0 Mustang and when I turned it on there is some serious Vibrations coming from the car. after some quick research the internet says oil on the fly wheel or clutch disk which they say can cause some issues, that the Drive Shaft wasn't reinstalled correctly or the fly wheel is the issue. now the only thing I can think of that may be the issue is the flywheel (https://lmr.com/item/SVE-6375A/mustang-sve-billet-steel-flywheel-82-95) came with some counter balance weights that seemed like they were for "unbalanced engines" or something like that so since I have a stock engine I didn't think I had to install those counter balance weights since the instructions said the flywheel will work with naturally balanced engines which I assumed meant stock engine, which is what i have, so i thought " oh I don't need to install those weights". so did I mess up and needed to install those counterbalance weights and if so which holes exactly because there are 14 other bolt holes where it looks like I could install those weights, (didn't look to closely to those bolt holes since I though all those things).

Brakes 96-04 5 lug brake swap

Now i know this is already been done been hashed out but that should only help to keep this thread related to swapping 96-04 brakes onto a fox… that being said i have a 94 gt booster and master cylinder with 04 front calipers 94 rear end, i have the rock auto specials stop tech ceramic pads no fancy rotors, i have a willwood proportioning valve ive been messing around with, so i know this is not going to feel like stock new edge brakes but i know i shouldnt have about an 1.5 inches of mush before real pedal engagement… i bled the system out good. What are the thoughts here different booster? Different master cylinder? Thats just how it is ?

Should I Get a New Clutch Fork and Pivot Ball Stud?

Took the T5 out to get it freshened up and decided to pull the bell housing, clutch and flywheel to chase a small oil leak and to just look the clutch components over being the car was torn down this far already.

So the T5 needed 2nd gear and the 1/2 slider and the 3/4 slider was a little suspect to that got put in new as well along with a new input shaft bearing retainer, shift rail lugs, and a new reverse brake cone being I snapped the tab of the one in the trans a few years back. Also ended up replacing the shift rail due to the roller on the fifth/reverse lever pin/roller assembly having two big flat spots and sloppy loose on the pin. My buddy has about 20 T5's in a connex that are in various stages of broken that he robs parts off of and we found a really good shift rail so that got cleaned up and installed. Got the master rebuild kit from Hanlon and it was mostly complete due to my dumbassery, I failed to read where you need to call them if you want the brass synchro for reverse. Mine was still in good shape so we just reused it.

Anyhow, pulled the bell housing, clutch assembly and the flywheel fully expecting the small oil leak to be the rear main. No oil in the bell housing but it was on the back of the bell housing spacer plate. Found the leak to be the passenger valve cover which I am hoping that by tightening the nuts on the studs (yes my valve covers are studded) the leak will stop as I have the blue Fel-Pro performance gaskets and the back two nuts were a couple turns loose.

Cleaned up the plate and bell housing at the car wash with oven cleaner and a brush. Got back to the house and removed the pivot ball stud and inspected it and the surface on the clutch fork that the release bearing contacts. I ordered new parts and have them on hand and they are going in. The pivot ball is roached and the clutch fork has some significant wear. The ball stud is original to the '93 bell housing and I cannot remember where I sourced the clutch fork.

Pivot Ball Wear:
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Clutch Fork Wear:
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Waiting on the clutch fork to get here which should be Wednesday. I also emailed RAM Clutches tech support to see what the facing thickness is new and what the minimum thickness is before it needs to be replaced. The flywheel side looks to be thin but I have no idea what it was new as its been a few years since it was installed. My guess is I am going to be ordering a new clutch set and having the flywheel resurfaced.

Anyhow, just thought I would post up the wear on the pivot ball stud and the clutch fork so if folks didn't know or think about it they do wear. Both of which will add to a poor shifting experience with the T5 according to what I have read.
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Electrical Fuel gauge problem

I replaced the entire fuel pump and float assembly a month ago. Car wasn’t driven much for several years and noticed that the fuel gauge wasn’t reading correctly on startup a while back so figured the float had gotten fuel logged. Fuel gauge was showing about 1/3 or so with a full tank. I had a new fuel pump and float/sending unit installed. After the new install, fuel gauge still shows about the same. Also, cluster oil pressure gauge reads (and has for decades) readaround 60-70 psi at all temps which is pretty wrong based on the stepper oil pressure gauge that is installed. Other dash gauges (temp/volts) seem to be correct. I searched the forums but didn’t find much relevant info. I know that grounds can be an issue, but what other things do I need to check?

Drivetrain At my Witts end Speedo gear ‘NEVER MIND’

disregard this post now,

Just took another look, the tranny gear was always there, but it’s gone now!
Was planning to change Clutch this winter so I’ll get at the gear then..

Hi folks, 89 GT Manual,

Been having ‘NEW SPEEDO GEAR ‘ issues.

I replaced red 16 tooth gear with Red 21 Tooth gear as called for with my setup.

Speedo in car will work fine for 15 mins then drop to Zero and nothing..

Have had it out 3-4 times
Gear is not chewed up at all.

Spun it up on drill ‘left hand turn’ while out and works fine in car.
Once re-installed does same thing. Dies after a short time.

It’s a Ford OEM gear,
Looks exactly the same, measures the same, just more teeth.

Am I missing something??

Cleaned housing on Tranny
Installs fine
Bolts in fine,
Almost like it’s not meshing properly

Or

Maybe an issue with the other end.

No VSS either.

Any suggestions are welcome.

It’s bang on while working as well..just won’t stay working


AGHHHHHHH!!!

Proof that Ron Francis wiring horrible

Ok I have been fighting a nightmare for two years. Ron Francis wiring Cobra 75 . It is very near impossible to screw up the maf wiring. They have the wires completely backwards. I am not happy other than this POS is no longer a part of my car. I bought a used Ford in great condition and I checked all the circuits. All were fine I recovered it and am putting the new reworked ford I now. You can't plug your clip in but one way. So I busted you Scott Bowers! Arrogant, can't be wrong cause you wire them yourself ! You need to find something to do for Yugo.

Stumble, Cough, Backfire and That Wrapped It Up!

So getting ready for new Vortech V3, installed new 255 high pressure fuel pump, high output coil, 9 mm wires, and new plugs. Heading to work when above tag line dropped, engine won’t light now. Could a pretty old adjustable FPR die from the high pressure? Car sat up for a few years but has always ran great till these changes. I’m going to see what kind of pressure I’ve got with key on tomorrow.

1969 Mach 1 fender

Hello
I'm in process to buy 1969 Mach 1
the seller sent me pictures of the fenders and there is number stamped on them
how can I read or decode the numbers?
the seller said most probably the fenders original and the car was never involved in accident since the fender original..
please share your thoughts and knowledge about it and how I can decode the number
pictures attached
thanks and happy holiday
meir

1969 Mach 1 fender

Hello
I'm in process to buy 1969 Mach 1
the seller sent me pictures of the fenders and there is number stamped on them
how can I read or decode the numbers?
the seller said most probably the fenders original and the car was never involved in accident since the fender original..
please share your thoughts and knowledge about it and how I can decode the number
pictures attached
thanks and happy holiday
meir

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89 fox crank no start

I know there are endless threads of problems just like what im dealing with i know because i started there first. Ive gone through the majority of the crank no start check list that some folks have been kind enough to share. Im afraid im still at a bit of a roadblock so to speak. The run down i got a facebook deal on a typhoon intake, a set of longtube headers and a set of tail pipes all for $100 super deal! My cars been neglected so i did tubular control arms, sway bar bushings, end links, coilovers, caster cambers,bumpsteer kit took care of all the front end stuff being 89 i figured while im here ill go to the mini torque setup and put a starter wrap around it to try and help the hot starts as i want to daily the car. Got it all done turn key click dead replaced battery cables cleaned up all my grounds in the engine bay and to the engine got a new motor craft starter solenoid thought all that would do it forsure nope… i was convinced it was the starter so i pulled a known good starter same thing happened so the starter is good, today i noticed the computer ground broke off and i never realized to reattach that so i got excited and got the computer ground wired into the negative battery and now has a clean ground still just cranks till it would kill the battery, i have 12v at the coil i have 12v at the injector wires my tps reads .97 i thought it was the clutch pedal saftey switch up under the dash on the pedal so i did the fuse bypass trick and when i did this it went from click the switch when cranking to how it is now where the starter turns the engine over and over but not fire… i need a little pointer to check something else out…. Thanks guys

For Sale 1990 Mazda Miata FS/FT for 94-04 Manual Mustang GT or $5000 obo

This car is located in Warrior, Alabama.

Looking to sell my basically stock 1990 Mazda Miata for 5000 OBO or Trade (potentially plus some cash) for a well maintained 1994-04 Mustang GT, must be manual.

132xxx Miles (Daily Driver so it will go up)

Selling a 1990 Miata a package car 132xxx miles. It is my daily driver so miles will go up.

Good: New hoses, thermostat, ecu coolant sensor, plugs, wires, cas seal, clutch master/slave, front calipers, rotors, pads, pcv, radiator, upgraded radio head unit and speakers, fuel filter, injectors, and o2 sensor, and just finished upgrading to NB suspension and top. The bbs wheels are authentic 95m wheels wrapped in high performance all season Falken tires. Southern car all it's life, clean underbody.

Bad: Depowered steering and no AC. Have ac components, will need upgrade to r134a. Needs paint and a rear finish panel. There's a shopping cart scrape on the passenger side quarter panel, could use a radio tombstone.
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Notched 4v pistons in a 2v setup?

I got a great deal on new diamond pistons and rings for my "budget" build. But they are notched for a 4v head. Will they still work with my 2v heads?? I snatched them up, I can gain my money back if they won't work. Will it effect compression?

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Bama tuner fried my pcm.

Car: 1996 mustang gt convertible. With pi motor swap.

Bama tuner fried my PCM. Got me a cheap aftermarket one. Reinstalled and reprogrammed it to run again.

I no longer have a rev limiter. Or a speed governor. I didn't have a speed governor before. But I also stock redlined at 6k. Then Bama tuned to 6500.
New pcm i revd it up to 7k battling my buddy. And no I didn't break anything doing that. She runs beautiful still once she's warm.

Anyone else have a similar experience???

Back on the horse again

What's up everyone.
Sold my last foxbody, a 93 vert, back in 2004 when I started having kids.
So it's been 18 years since doing this and the leeches are getting older now so it's my time again.

Anyways I bought an 83 GT this year that needs some work and upgrades. So in essence, I'm going from one money pit to another.

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Fuel No Fuel but Fuel Pump Turns On

So, I just picked up this 87 mustang 5.0 as a project. The fuel pump turns on, but crank no start. It will start and run only off of starter fluid or gas if thrown in the throttle body. No gas on spark plugs when cranked. What should I do? Seems like fuel is going up the lines, but not coming out the injectors. Dropping whatever ideas would be greatly appreciated. Im new to the 5.0, so im learnin as i go! Also, I tried checking fuel pressure with a gauge instead of just removing one of the fuel lines from the tank, but cannot find the nipple that i put it on.

LESS THAN 9.5 MPG CITY DRIVING!!!

Hello everyone

I was just wondering if any of you have any ideas about this ridiculously low MPG. ONLY less than 9.5 Miles to the gallon city driving.
I've seen many postings with much more modified engines giving much better mileage.
I was just running a small MPG study being conservative on my driving. shifting at around 2 - 2.5K
I don't consider my build radical by any means and the mileage should be much better than that.
I ran a scan and no error codes whatsoever. I've never tuned the engine but even like that shouldn't give me that bad of a mileage

My engine details are:
Production 302 block 0.030" overbored (306ci) w/ Flat top pistons
170cc twisted wedge heads with 61cc chambers,1 5/8" BBK headers,1.6 magnum rollers, and TFS stage 1 cam
65mm Throttle body and 70mm MAF tube and sensor with 19 lbs injectors, and 190 LPG fuel pump + Kirban FPR (39 psi / Vac. 0ff)
TFS upper and lower intakes and 3/8 phenolic spacer.
In fender high flow air filter,
Autolite plugs 2924 to 0.054''
MSD blaster coil and wires
Initial timing set to about 15 degrees.
UD pulleys, Griffin radiator, electric cooling fan w/Delta controller, and 200 AMP alternator
T5 Z specs transmission, 3.55:1 gears and 31 spline TruTrac differential/Mosser axles, and 245 45 17 tires all around
The two secondary converters were removed along with all the smog system. The EGR valve still working correctly

I just want to say that I'm not complaining, just it seems not normal.
.... And no, don't tell to buy a Honda, that is not the point: "THERE SHOULDN'T BE WRONG WANTING TO HAVE A LITTLE PERFORMANCE AND EFFICIENCY AT THE SAME TIME"
Right now my engine IS NOT efficient.

Thank you all for any help provided.
What an awesome community!

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