After replacing my old perfectly working 65mm 4.6 2v throttle body with new bigger one the idle is between 1500-2000.
Engine turned off throttle plate move freely and with new gasket there's shouldn't be any leaks, when engine is running feels like something stickin and don't let plate close and I should push it by hand to get idle down.
Any ideas?

Good morning everyone , I was given a BBK fuel rail for my foxbody from a friend. This rail is an older design and has a marking under the rail "SUB420", I remember reading years ago that guys had issues with these rails leaking fuel. I am not sure if it was an installer issue or a bad design. I would like to use them IF they are safe, whats the scoop?

thanks!

I have a 73 Mustang with 351C. Drove the car home, ran fine started going into the garage it quit and will not start. It fires, quits and I heard a noise under the car. New starter, solenoid, leads and put in a new ignition switch. Still the same thing ! Took my HEI distributer out and put a standard points, coil setup in , same thing. What bothers me is the noise under neath ? I did check to voltage to the coil from the ignition switch 7.5 volts. Sounds like a hung starter, looked at the flywheel teeth, looked good. Engine is fairly new long block,less than 10,000 miles. Thinking maybe it jumped time, but it should have a new timing chain. Any help appreciated.

Greetings,

I'm helping my dad sell a bumper he's been sitting on for several years... the car bumped into a curb years back and he'd been meaning to paint it to match his car and install it, but... well, he's old and doesn't want to. Finally had insurance take care of it a few months ago.

It *is*, however, a perfectly new, still in wrapping, aftermarket bumper. It'd be a shame to cut it up and waste it.

Its located in Thousand Oaks, California. Dad would prefer someone just pick it up, but if you're interested and will pay shipping ahead of time we can probably work that out.

Pictures here:

I'm putting a mishimoto fan in a 99gt and I need a switched ignition source for it. The recommendation I've seen is to wire it in with the head unit, but I would prefer to make the connection under the hood. Anyone know a good spot?

My son inlaw has a 2014 shadow black warrior mustang and it was rear-ended and we cant find the rear warrior badge for this car. Anyone know where we could purchase one ??

I was Scotts87LX on many different forums, but it appears the name was taken after I'd been away too long. I'm back.

I’ve done a few searches and didn’t see anything on it. I’ve got a 93 coupe and would like to remove the plastic handle off the parking brake. The button is rattling at certain RPM’s and is annoying. Anyone know how I can disassemble the plastic handle?

Just saw I posted in the 94-95 section. Feel free to move.

Hi All,
Looking for some information on swapping the engine out of a 1991 Mustang LX convertible to a 2015-2017 Mustang Coyote.

Where can I find the parts that I will need to complete this swap? I have add a picture of the car that I will be swap the engine out.

The engine is stock with about 92k on it.

thanks,
J.

Hello guys. I found a problem with my computer. There’s an OP amp inside of my eec that I’m pretty sure needs to be replaced. 2 out of the 8 pins have gone bad. My question is.. Is there anyone that knows any part numbers or where I can get a replacement from. Also Is this something that can be repaired by ecu exchange?

Is it possible to program a smart junction box for my 2006 Mustang GT V8? I'm getting a used one that was pulled out of a similar vehicle. The used one worked. When I receive it (tomorrow) can I program it myself without going to the dealer? Will it even need to be programmed?
Thanks!

I am having electrical issues on my 2005 GT. Low beams work. When I pull on the stalk, the high beams flash on for a moment, then headlights go completely off. I have checked fuses and swapped relays (with otehr relayed same type in the fuse panel- not new) and cant solve the problem. There is a similar issue happemning with fog lights too. (this is a Raush with upper and lower fogs.) Please help! I am thinking it might be the stalk, but dont want to go fishing if this is not the issue.

Hi,

I have the 89w/ GT3 body, I need to replace one of my armrests. My interior trim code says "DA", which I read a D for cloth/vinyl seats, and A for Titanium - but the only '89 arm rests I can find are the "smoke gray" color - which looks correct, but it's a different color code than the titanium that replaced it! Should I go ahead and get the smoke gray ones? Also, any idea why it would have the "A" color code when the Titanium gray hadn't come out yet? The date code is 10/89.

Was going to utilize this harness and processor on a project but decided to go a different direction so this harness is up for sale. Harness has never been out of the box and the A9L is used but I have run it in my 93 Coupe with the SCT chip and it performed as expected. The harnesses is running right at $515 new right now plus tax and shipping so its $100 less than going to Summit or the like. Price is $700 for both shipped ground from Tulsa, OK to the lower 48 states and no I will not separate.

O3 GT with no rear defroster. I have power at both fuses. Switch has power coming in and when pressed power leaving, but no power coming back from relay to illuminate switch.

I am in the info gathering stage of rebuilding my 302 h.o.

I have looked over the books on Am azon and the reviews are always conflicted towards either lack of info or the wrong info. So if you know of or have a book that hits the target I would love to hear about it. Hopefully you can help me narrow down to what I need.

Looking for the red rubber battery cable boot for the positive side of the battery terminal for a 2005-2009.

Thanks

So my current set up is heads xcam and cobra intake. I also have megasquirt and a msd 6al. Long tube headers and a x pipe.

My heads are speed master 190cc, 2.02 intake 1.65 exsaust valves, with a 64cc combustion chamber.

So my question is; if I plan to stay n/a should I go with set of gt40 heads??? I feel like I'm giving up a lot of power as I'm losing compression with the aluminum heads.

Thanks for all the help.

Hello everybody
I have a big issue with my mustang v6 2006
It’s equipped with a supercharger kit vortech, exhaust bbk, tb bbk 70 mm and a custom tune

Now I have a big problem with my MAF
I break one maf one week ago and I replaced it
The car was fine, and now, after a week the same issue
The sensor fail
Any suggestion?
Thanks a lot

Hi , looking, for some ideas on where to look for new engine troubles , i have a vibration or maybe a miss issue with new engine build. My engine is a new rebuilt 306 , it has TFS 170 heads , new scorpion 1.6 rockers, comp cams xe274hr-12 cam, .555 intake and .565 exhaust lift, 274, 282 dur, 112 lobe seperation. It has 93 cobra intake with new FMS 24# injectors, has new pro-m 75mm mass air for 24# injectors and cold air intake, new accufabb 70mm tb, bbk short headers, new stock distributor, new plugs and wires, and new stock replacement balancer. The engine starts right up , idles very good around 750 rpm, when I start to give it any throttle Im getting either a vibration or a miss , have gone over the vacuum lines cant find any leaks , the timinng is at 12-14 degrees .The valvetrain makes a little more noise than the old stock set up did but not really loud .I still have stock fuel pump. what do you guys use as a plug gap? Could the Valves be out of adjustment enough to cause this ?The compression works out about 10:1. I still have a stock a9p ecm .Sorry for such a long post just trying to give as much info as possible, Thanks in advance for any help.

Hello everyone,
I recently purchased a 2000 Mustang GT 4.6L SOHC. It was sitting for a while, so I replaced the fuel pump and got it started. When I started it and ran it for about 2 minutes, It began to smoke very badly. It appears to be coming from the exhaust manifold area, but I'm not sure. At first I thought it was the heater hoses leaking onto the headers, but I made sure those were rerouted properly. Then I thought it might have been leaking coolant somewhere, so I ran a pressure test on it, but it exposed no leaks. I saw gunk on the headers themselves, but the smoke seems too excessive for it to be coming from residue. Unfortunately, I don't have anyone that can run the car as I get under it to inspect it further. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate any input on guiding me. Thank you!

I recently purchased a 93 LX foxbody. I want to do a Saleen clone. My question to those who have done the same; Saleen or Cervini? What is the difference between both, better or worse?

Good evening,

I have been reading over the site for the past few days. Ill explain my issue , what ive done and any suggestions from you guys are appreciated.

I have a 91 5.0 that I purchased earlier this year. Mods are: Cobra intake, BBK 70MM TB, BBK shorty headers, off road exhaust . Smog delete, Egr delete.

When I got it the previous owner had the MAF unplugged because he couldnt get it running right. He also told me that he had the ECU replaced because he couldnt figure out the idle problem. When I brought it home, I fixed all vacuum leaks coming from Brake booster and old Egr hoses still hooked up. Now the only vacuum I have hooked up is for vent air control, brake booster, and FPR. All extras are gone. Everything has been fine ever since I fixed all these issues even though me CEL is on. That is until recently.

It started with the car dying when I hit the gas, so I brought it home and now it wont even start unless the MAF is unplugged. Using a code reader I get the same codes ive gotten since day one which are: KOEO 31-81-82-85-84.... but now the new codes I get are 29-66-98.

So VSS and Maf issues.... on with the fun!

I looked around to see what I could do here are my results for volt/ohm checks at the MAF plug/sensor:

Between power and ground getting almost 12 volts
Between MAF Signal and MAF Return getting 15k OHMS
Between MAF and Neg Battery terminal key on is like .7volts and when start car it goes up to 1.2 volts and then the car dies.

------------

Now I am trying to figure out what to look at next. I am thinking about replacing the MAF sensor or Unit completely. Im not sure what housing it is, but its a Ford sensor. Im pretty sure its not even the original because its a E9ZF-xxxxxx-xx and I think it should be a F1 code. Even my BAP sensor is a E7EF-12A644-A1A. I know some things are pieced together on this. What are some techincal suggestions you guys may have for me next since these voltages and ohms seems to check out. Thank you!

Doing the 5 lug swap on my other SSP mustang, got a brand new 93 Cobra Master Cylinder and as soon as I put fluid in, it starts leaking at the seam where the top and bottom of the pl;astic reservoir are formed together. Now this holds up my progress big time while I wait for another one. You would think quality control would be a little better!! This was a Dorman MC.

Hi everyone, I'll try and keep this brief and hopefully give you as much info as you need. I have an '85 GT 302 carbureted hunk o junk I bought a while back. Its got a 91 block in it that the guy had converted to a electronic fuel pump. I am into the process of converting it back to mechanical fuel pump. New timing cover, eccentric, and mechanical pump are installed. My next task is getting the electrics in order, mainly the ignition coil, ignition coil module and distributor. First question, how do I know if I need the ignition coil with or without electronic engine controls. Second question, how do I know what wires go where? Its a jumbled mess in there. I do still have color on my wires, so if there is a color coded guide somewhere that would be helpful. I do have a voltmeter and am getting more comfortable testing circuits but I'd def need some guidance on that as well. And if you need any additional info let me know. Thank you all for your help!!