Hey all. Im trying to finish up my 5 lug/4 wheel disc install.
I went with NVX wheels from LMR with 245/40/18 up front.

Brakes are ATS Brembos with 13.2" rotors.
FYI the calipers don't clear the wheel with out some flap wheel finesse but that's a separate problem

Originally I had second hand Steeda springs on the car(I don't know if they were the sport or the competition ones) and it was too low up front. wheels would rub on the fender lip at the top of the arch. I then bought a brand new set of Ford motorsport B springs and put them in this morning. They are supposed to be less than an inch drop compared to 1-1.25 from the steeda.

Well... They dropped the car as much if not a little more than the steedas.

I'm at a loss on how to fix the clearance other than stock springs but I don't want it that tall

Here is a pic with the steeds springs

Can anyone help with on rear brake setup ? how to tell small from large

I have a police oil cooler adapter and the hoses just trying to see if anybody has a diagram how the original Plumbing goes that would be very helpful thank you.

New in the box. Was planning to a TT setup on my 2017 Shelby GT350 but changed plans. Located in Surprise, AZ. $850 shipped to lower 48/APO

Hey everyone, im new here. From anne arundel county MD!

Hi guys, long time, no see (or read). I used to post in the SN95 forums.

Kid next door has an 88 fox body and is having problems with it. Don't know what they are yet, but I can pretty much guess. Engine. Car hasn't moved in weeks, and his mom mentioned his problems to my wife.

I'd like to help him if I can. This thing has clearly been modded for the strip. Small front tires and wide ones on the rear. Saw the engine once. High rise Edlebrock manifold, headers, Edlebrock valve covers which look line a kid put them together. Exterior welds...but chromed.

Does anyone know what a typical track renovation for these cars entails? I gather the ignition is electronic. Obviously no MAF or other niceties like O2 sensors.

I'll post more once I learn more.

Bier

Ive searched the forums and have seen the checklist on how to approach a non start and one where it cranks but wont turn over. Before anyone scoffs and throws the list at me, i think the 2 symptoms will point to something obvious to everyone else but me and will allow me to fix the issue much quicker.

1st Symptom cold temperature - has a healthy crank but wont turn over. Early on i would prime it by turning the ignition and getting the fuel to prime and it worked a handful of times, now it does not seem to any longer. BUT will start instantly when its warmer out once early afternoon hits.

2nd Symptom turn the key and nothing happens - It just started this a few days ago. It gets ACC power and i can hear the fuel go but the starter does not engage. HOWEVER if i sit a few minutes and turn the key, it will fire up like there's no issue whatsoever. Temperature does not seem to cause this issue.

The battery is new. I purchased a new starter thats currently sitting in a box and im about to order a new cap and rotor, but i figured id check in here first before doing anything.

so I recently replaced my power steering pump and now my belt is rubbing on a bolt between the crankshaft pulley and the power steering pump. the belt is routed correctly and I reused the old pulley. If anyone has suggestions or help it would be greatly appreciated

I'm gathering parts for winter upgrade projects and one of the things on my list is new clutch pacs in the rear end. 8.8 rear had some upgrades done to it before I bought it about 7 years ago. 3.73 gears, 31 spline Moser axles, welded tubes and supposedly new clutch pacs with extra clutches installed. It's worked great, but clutch pacs are getting weak. Car sees a few trips to the track a year but is 90% street car. I bought a set of the upgraded Ford carbon fiber clutch pacs. So with the newer type clutch pacs, do I install them per the Ford instructions or do guys shim them like the older style stock pacs with extra clutches to tighten them up a bit? I'm not worried about them wearing a little faster. If I get five years out of them I'm fine with that.

Anyone know what color this mustang is? Maybe have a paint code? Thanks in advance.

Chasing a rough idle. Shakes especially when I first start it and seems to be worse in park/neutral vs in drive for whatever reason too...

It also surges. Will idle steady at 700 rpms for a while and then all of a sudden will pop up to 750rpms and then come right back down....what I notice is when this RPM goes up the MAF reading foes up from .6lbs/min to .9lbs/min....is the MAF reading incorrectly? Is the IAC opening on its own more and that is actually causing more air flow and that is why the MAF is reading more? I'm trying to see who to point the finger at. It is a case of the chicken and the egg what came first? I don't have data on the IAC. If I could see that the IAC didn't move and the throttle body didn't move (which I know it didn't cause I do have that data) then I can point the finger at the MAF giving a faulty reading and causing the surge....

Hi

recently bought 89 GT

Found a rear end repair Reciept with some details

it came into the shop locked up

mechanic replaced gears with 373
Shimmed up everything and kicked it out the door,
It’s still the 8.8

anyway I have been driving the car, no real issues except that I noticed only 1 rear wheel spin.
Drivers side mostly unless on gravel

anyway I jacked up the rear, spun each wheel expecting to see the other go opposite
But no, I the other tries to go same direction but won’t, fast spin or slow..

can someone tell me from this, do you believe the diff is a locker, limited slip or standard diff

seems like there may be clutches in there just worn maybe??
Thanks

Andy

Hello,
Can I get opinions on what color the lower body panels are? I think it is a darker grey than stock but I don't know. I don't know if the prior owner painted it some custom color or if this may be the dark titanium YU code paint.
I know shading and photos make this probably impossible to determine but I need somewhere to start. Thanks for any help,
Kevin

I just completed my T5 swap and so far I am loving the new driveline. I installed a Hurst short throw shifter and Maximum Motorsports Clutch Cable w/firewall adjuster and aluminum quadrant. At this time, I am having absolutely no issues with gears grinding. The only concern or issue I am having is (when driving) I can shift up through all gears perfectly but when coming down from 5th gear to 4th, it will not go in (no grinding), i have to put it into 3rd first and then I can go into 4th gear.

Anybody else dealt with this before?

I am able to shift down from 5th into any other gear. And when I’m stopped i can shift down to any gear as well. Could this be an issue with the clutch cable? Maybe i’m not fully disengaging the clutch? But why would every other gear allow it?

I might have the option to purchase a 1993 Cobra or a 1969 Mach 1 soon. Little back story, about 19 years ago I met an older gentleman at work who trained me for a short while. After getting to know him he told me he had a little shop in town to work on his own cars and other projects. The shop was close to my parents house where I was living at the time so I would always swing by and see what he was up to. He was always a big Mustang guy and at the time he had a 1965 Mustang, 1968 Mustang Fast Back, 1969 Mustang Mach 1, 1993 Mustang Cobra, 2008 Mustang Bullitt and a few other projects.

He retired 8 years ago and had lost track of him. I never had his contact info and I would swing by his shop from time to time and it was always closed. Well yesterday I was in the area and drove by and he was there. I ended up spending about 2.5 hours there talking with him. He sold the 65 Mustang but still had the others and his wife has been talking about selling some of them. He said the Mach 1 and Cobra might be available for sale. Asked what he was looking to get for them but said he has to talk with his wife because they are her cars. They were anniversary gifts throughout the years.

The Cobra is currently at his sons house a few hours away. He told his son not long ago if someone offers him anywhere between $20k-$25K to sell it. He purchased the car brand new from the dealer. It's 100% all original and red in color with leather interior. It runs and drives without any issues and was unsure on the mileage, but I know it's low.

I can't remember if he purchased the Mach 1 new or used but I know he's owned it for a very long time. Has always been either garaged kept or in the shop and under a cover and rarely driven. Would only take it to car shows back in the day. It was there at the shop but he had it covered and had some stuff sitting on top so didn't get to get a real good look at it. But it's a 100% complete rust free car and the paint still looks great on it. He said it runs and drives still but one of the rear brakes isn't working for some reason and hasn't had a chance to look into it. It's also red on color with the yellow and white stripe down the bottom that says Mach 1. Not real sure which engine it has.

He's going to speak with his wife about them and see what she would like to get for them. Told me to give him a call in a couple of days or swing by the shop and will let me know what she says. Now the waiting game, I would love to pick up one of these cars if the price is right. It would have to be a great deal for me to justify spending that kind of money. The wife would stab me in the throat if not.

Hi from a first time Fox owner, long time Ford owner.

I just bought a western 1982 Cougar wagon that's been swapped with an '89GT 302/T5. Fun, clean little car...and most importantly, free of the rust that is associated with buying an Ohio car.







Anyway, it ran great for about a week, but now it won't start. Cranks and cranks and cranks, but nothing. Since then, I've been working through one of the Fox no-start checklists found here on the forums. I've ruled out a bunch of stuff already (distributor, coil, ignition switch, fuel pump, EEC, Anderson PMS) and can confirm that the car will fire up if I jump the EEC relay. The relay tests good and a new one was installed to confirm that it isn't the problem.

So, I'm guessing now that I've either got a short somewhere, or a fusible link may have failed. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


Anyway, aside from this Cougar, my stable consists of three Panther platform cars: 2003 Marauder, 2010 Crown Vic P7B, 1991 LTD Country Squire

and i couldn't be happier. tbh i'm shocked at how good ford has made these cars.

2022 custom order 301A PP1 forged wheels 6spd GT

For the long back story of the car, click here:
Old Mustang with EEC troubleshooting

The above thread sort of stalled out when I had to take time off the project. I thought I was close to a proper running car when it blew a fuel line and my Dad had some new braided lines made. After removing the braided lines and getting new ones made the car was off for some weeks.I fired it up and we seemed to be back to square one. I'm back looking at it in another week and the car fired up and did not shut off after starting. Yay!, but the idle is not consistent and too low. I thought I would try a small turn of the distributor one way and the other to see if the timing was a little off. With the car running, I did that, listening for an idle improvement. I did not remove the SPOUT plug. Nothing seemed better and then the car died. It wouldn't fire up, so I removed the plug and kept moving the distributor a little and got it to fire once long enough to move a tiny amount and it died again. I gave up trying to find the sweet spot. I'm not moving it much at all so I can't be far off. Is there something I should have done before trying to adjust the timing on a car with around a 1989 top end that my 1965 Mustang knowledge just messed up?

Simple question. Is it worth it to get looms or heat Shields to protect the plug wires?

Wanted to get some of your guys opinions on the situation I’m in right now. So I have my foxbody, 1992 Mustang GT, at the shop right now getting the rear main seal replaced along with some other things. It grinds second and reverse and pops out of gear occasionally so I figured now was a good time to rebuild the tranny as well. I talked to the shop owner about it and asked him a ballpark and he told me the guy he has that he sends trannys to to get them rebuilt it’s usually around 5-600. He’s been having trouble reaching out to the guy but he finally got a price from him and he said he’s now charging 1150 and that includes labor and the usual parts that need replacing (my guy said that’s bearings and synchros). The shop owner recommended to me that we could just get a new world class t5 transmission which he told me is a more upgraded t5 than what I have right now and he could get one of those for 2 grand.

Now that I’m doing research on these “world class t5s” from what I’ve been reading I think my car already came with that from the factory. Could anyone clear this up for me?
Does anyone know anyone in the south Florida area that rebuilds transmissions so I could see if I could find someone that will do it for cheaper?

Anyone know what this things called or if i even need it? It plugs into my radiator fan and the harness into the back of it. Seems like a resistor slows the fan alot, when i remove it fan runs full speed. But no parts store seem to be able to find it.

Hey guys. Any of you that are into other mechanical work besides our Foxbodies have a recommendation for a decent OBDii scanner? I already have a $30 one that will show me the codes, but I’m looking for something with more function. Maybe real time data, and more diagnostic ability.

searched but could not find any previous posts.

My 71 Mach1 has a rear spoiler and I have been told I should have it tilted differently. I was told at a car show I should have it tilted more down in the front. I had it only slightly tilted.

What are your thoughts. I tilted it and have attached pics.

Columbus Ohio. $800 obo. (Currently $870, to buy from manufacturer) Bought for my project but going to run factory ECU instead. New in box. Never been out of the bubble wrap. Might consider an A9L or similar as trade.

Also have for sale but not included Autometer Phantom wideband. New in box. $225 obo.

Also have a brand new inexpensive laptop with TunerStudio and MegaLog Viewer (with licenses) installed. $200 obo.

New Guy, I have 1977 II 2.3 Liter w/C3 Tranny, My situation maybe one of a kind or not. I just replace a leaking trans output seal but it still leaks. I installed the OEM seal that is recommended but still the problem exists is there a seal that has the spring installed that can fix tight around the shaft, that will stop and seal as required?