Car details. 91 5.0 vert. Fresh tkx swap. Maybe 500 miles on swap.

When doing 65mph or above, the shifter will rattle. It’s me not enough that a hand on the shifter stops it but it’s bad enough that something definitely seems off. It does not do it while parked and reving. It does not change with the clutch in or out. I would think it’s driveshaft related.

I plan to inspect the rear u joints , and check the driveshaft marks to see if it’s 180 out. Is it possible the driveshaft is unbalanced? It’s the stock one that we swapped the yoke to use with the swap.

See video:

fox

youtube.com

I have a 1992 5.0 that is having really weird issues. with the key in the run position it will do this sometimes and the fuel pump spazzes out you can hear it in the video and you can also hear a weird beeping type of noise. Car won't run anymore used to run fine, it sat for a while. Occasionally it will fire for a second but won't run there is no spark most of the time. Any idea what's going on here? And help is appreciated thanks

Hi everyone,

I have a 66 Mustang 200ci that I can't get started, ill give you a quick rundown. The car sat for a few years and I have been working to get it back up and running. I have a new batter, solenoid, starter, coil, and fuel in the carb. the engine is a TDC and I can't get it to start. It will crank all day but won't start, there is voltage to the plugs and coil but won't start any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Ok I have an issue I believe it’s fuel pressure. I turn key on gauge jumps up to 40 and drops all the way slowly within 10 to 20 sec. Guys what could it be? I bought new fp,fp filters both , fp relay,I even bought a new regulator. Can turns on, dies sounds extremely ragged.I have 12 v black pink wire, orange blue wire and I know I have 12v on injectors connector all of them. Checked every injector with 9v battery all soloinds clicking (did not check to see if they were clicking car on screwdriver)I also changed the fuel harness. I am getting code 31,66,85 but 66 I think I’m getting from removing air flitter maf to pull plugs. Ecu was done last year thou eBay ecu exhange so don’t think something wrong in there any way to test the ecu fuel pump. What wire would cause me to loose fuel pressure?where should I look . O I also bought ignition switch I’m had car down 2 weeks tomorrow

I took the car out for a drive, stopped and then when I returned it would crank but no fire.
Opened the hood and there's no fuel in the filter so I thought, hmmm out of gas (another story with gas gauge/sending unit - see end)
Got gas and put it in but it was not empty as got less than 15 litres in before it spewed back on me.
Got in and it fired up so I thought well that's kinda weird.
So now I am checking and I can drive it but when I open the hood there's no fuel left in the filter. I can start it and it will run but the fuel filter has nothing in it. It's like the motor is just barely getting enough to run but I can drive it.
Can anyone offer up suggestion on what the issue may be here?


Motor is a 1997 5.0L converted to carburetor.
All accessory parts were new...mechanical fuel pump, carb (Quickfuel slayer 600), fuel rails to carb, fuel tank, fuel lines (3/8")
I also put a new sending unit in the tank but tested the float in water first and found it had a leak. I boiled off the water inside the float and then soldered the pinhole. I think there must still be a small leak in it b/c over the winter the gauge has now stopped moving more than a hair so I think the damn float has sprung another leak.

Hi all, I'm in big need of help with the brakes on my fox. It was originally a 4 cylinder but now has nearly all V8 fox parts. I've rebuilt or replaced nearly every part of the brakes besides the mc (stock 4cyl one I believe) and the parking brake cables (the kind with the 4 tabs that lock into the backing plate and cable from the handbrake). My issues is with the rear brakes. I put all new hardware, shoes, and drums on the back, all the brakes were bled to procedure, and the pedal felt great at first. However the rear brakes were dragging from the first time I tested it (last thing I did before driving it after V8 swap), especially the right rear. I turned the starwheel way back until I could move the drums almost freely, and pulled the parking brake, but whenever I do that they tighten up again and start to drag. I put it back together and the pedal started to get very mushy and travel further than before, so I took it back apart and can't find any leaks. The brake would still drag, and yet the parking brake doesnt do anything. I'm lost in where to go, I haven't messed with drums much and I'm not sure if I screwed something up as they don't seem to settle right, or if there is something messed up with the car. Worried it's multiple issues at once. Any thoughts?

Used a lot of repo parts over the years but not all of it, from weather Stripping to trim parts there a lot of overlapping manufacturers and stuff that's rebranded by the big mustang shops. I suck at searching stuff since the last board update so there might be a thread I can't find.

One I haven't tried yet are the arms rest pads. I know scott drake has them, Daniel carpenter and dashes direct but never can find info which one are decent, just complaints about house brands who like to switch up suppliers

Same for the trim parts, lights, switches and seals along with other repo parts for the fox body. Figure a thread keeping track might be helpful. just a few brands that I can think of that offer reproduction style parts for these cars, the sheet metal stuff is all most all the same rebranded made in Taiwan parts from what i've used over the years, save for a few low quality patch panels that come from somewhere in canada like those rocker covers most shops offer, slip over covers that are no where close to oem stampings.

ACP
Acme
Daniel carpenter
Dorman
Depo
Dashes direct
Fairchild
R.E.M
Scott drake
Shee-Mar
Soft seal
TYC
TMI
Osbourne reproductions
KSR. Think they folded up years ago now
A lot of others that got bought up. Like how mustang unlimited and corvette America became top flight automotive, they used to have some brands you don't hear about any more.

Hope this is the place to ask. I've seen the following taillights on the internet:


Where would I get a set like these?

Context: I live in a country where the default (red) tail-lights are only allowed on historic-status vehicles (which I have), but it prevents me from modifying anything on the car. So if I want to change the suspension to something smoother, I'd have my historic status revoked. Taillights like these would circumvent the issue. Searching on the web didn't help.

Hello everyone I’ve been a long time reader here but this is my first post. I’m having a very hard time installing a 3.73 gear set in my 86 mustang. I’ve been working on this for several evenings now after work and am getting no where. I’ve done machine work for about 30 years and believe I have a good grasp on how this is supposed to go, but it’s not going that way. No matter weather I have no shim or so much shim under the pinion that the pinion nose hits the carrier my contact patch is on the heel on the drive side and on the toe on the coast side. I have tried shimming the pinion in small steps and setting backlash each time, even varying backlash from .006”to .012”. Nothing moves the drive side contact patch off of the heel of the tooth. It’s a Ford Performance gear set by the way. I’ve also read up some on the face hobbed gears that there using in these rear ends.

So i have the tank out to swap in a holley 12-347 instead of my dual external pumps.
While i'm waiting for some fittings and the tank is uninstalled i want to clean up that area and coat or paint.
Only some surface rust and oil and fluids.
I plan to do the whole car, but right now i have to get this done quickly so i can reinstall the tank this weekend.
I do have a car lift, so i won't be on my back.

So far i used my Milwaukee 12 die grinder with a wire wheel and a hand brush to get most of the surface clear of loose debris.
Still need to degrease and do whatever it takes to prep it.

My car's undercarriage is in relatively good condition. No rust, probably from 30 years of fluid protection.

I would kinda like to do the underside flat gray and the wheel wells black.

Not sure i'm i really need to go por15 crazy on it. Since it's always garaged even my subframes that i painted 15 years still look good.

Don't shoot me on this one, but i was kinda thinking aerosol?

When i did the torque arm i had to clean the rear where the dogbone was. It was a mess, i over sprayed brake clean and it cleaned the hell out of the floor pan.
Is it safe to just spray it under there? It was so easy i just don't know what that stuff does to metal, paint or whatever the hell is on the undersized of the car.
I don't mind laying out some plastic and just going nuts if it's that easy. I could literally watch the grease disappear effortlessly.

Not turning this into a show car, but i do walk under the car all the time (lift goes high enough for me to pass without ducking) and i've spent 10 years thinking about cleaning it.

Thoughts?
Products?

So my '92 has something going on with it, started last fall was cruising 70mph for 15 miles or so and i felt it do something odd, not sure if it misfired, temporarily died or what but it felt like it lost power for 1-2 seconds then it was fine and back to normal?

a few weeks later it did it again. Now this spring i get it back out of storage and have only driven maybe 100 miles so far and the issue seems to be occurring again, had driven 20 miles or so and was exiting the expressway i toss it in neutral to coast up the the red light and after coasting for1/8th mile or so i see the tach drop to zero? hmm thats odd, put it in 4th gear and drop the clutch and it fires back up, stop at the light it idles fine, light turns green drive away like normal. going about 30mph down this next road a few miles and it stumbles like its going to die, does it 2 different times then runs fine the whole rest of the time going home ( another 15 miles).

Not sure where to look, not sure if the fuel pump is acting up since i only have a pressure gauge under the hood, not sure if its loosing spark, or if maybe something is going in the ECU or some sensor? Car runs perfect and normal at all throttle positions besides these isolated few second long random events.

It does have a MSD distributor in it, also has an old school crane interceptor in it (early version Anderson PMS) all of these parts have been in the car 25+ years and never had an issue before with any of these items, also has a 190 LPH fuel pump in it. Car only has 15,000 original miles, always stored inside, never seen rain or snow so all of the wiring is in good shape and not typical of a 30 year old car.

Hello again. I'm beginning a complete rebuild of 302 out of a '76 Mustang II. We put a pair of AFR 165 heads on it (CR~10:1) and are going with their recommendation for a Comp Cams 268 grind. Their actual grind number is XE268H. We're wondering about vacuum for power brakes, etc. Has anyone done anything close to this? And how was vacuum at idle or off throttle?
Thanks!

When I was removing the rear glass trim to prep my car for paint it got pretty bent up. Can I save this trim and how would you guys go about fixing it?

Just got a 1995 GT convertible and the power seat was sluggish and wouldn't move with me sitting in it. Took it apart and cleaned it all up and sprayed white lithium grease on the gear screw. Moves real nice now on the bench but one side moves faster than the other. Keep in mind the track is on the bench unbolted from the seat. But when I start at full length one way and go full movement the other way one side gets there quicker than the other. Makes me think that would likely cause some binding? The extent is about 1/2 to 3/4", meaning when one side reaches the end the other side still has 1/2 to 3/4" left to go. Shafts seem to be the same length.
Anyone ever notice this and any ideas on the cause? I'm thinking possibly the gear that connects the flex shaft to the gear shaft may be skipping? I'd hate to put it back together and still have binding. My other option is to order the rebuild kit from LMR and replace that stuff?
Thoughts?

Hey knowledgeable gentlemen, I have an issue.

One of my dash lights became white.

I removed the gauge cluster to see what's up and saw that there is a blue filter-like cap in the gauge cluster that changes the color of the gauge. The cap in question is glued in, just like the other ones, but the light still comes out white. I don't currently have a tool to dissasemble the cluster, but is it possible/worth doing it?

I had blue lights lying around, so installed it and the color is a bit off.

What's the course of action here? Disassemble the two halves of the gauge cluster, rip out the caps, replace lights with a different color? Reglue the blue cap? It seems to be in place.

On my '93 5.0 I have a code 66 - MAF below minimum voltage.
There's probably a write-up on here somewhere on how to measure MAF voltage. Would someone point me to that please?

Hello All...., I had my 95 Cobra parked awhile, but would start it up every so often. Until couple months back, I started it up.., and the idle rev'd up to 1800 rpms for about 20-30 seconds.., then gives a BIG cough, like it is almost going to die, then comes backs to like, then the idle stays normal at about 850 rpm (the runs great!). It is just everytime I startup, it has that high rpm hang for about 30 seconds or so. I have changed several parts off my other low mileage Cobra (which is running perfectly). Changed out IAC, TPS, cleaned MAF..., still same effect. Even put my tune back to stock, still no luck. I have checked the codes with the car OFF, and nothing sticks out besides 511, 565, and 542.. What I did notice, is if I unplug the MAF sensor, and startup the car.., I do not get that high rpm rev issue. I have only cleaned the MAF, but next step is probably to replace it. I just wanted to get alittle feedback, before I start going buying parts that I don't need .

Thanks for the help...any help is well apperciated.

Thanks
Leo

Hello all! Looking for thoughts on a quality and reliable brand of pistons. Engine is a Ford 302 out of a Mustang II. Probably making ~400 HP. Want to go with the hypereutectic type. Want to stay away from the cold start slapping and blowby from forged.
Thanks,
Kurt

Hey guys,

I couldn't find a solution to this issue searching (or I didn't look hard enough) I just recently swapped my car from Cobra front brakes and Rear drums to ATS Calipers, Taurus rear calipers, stainless braided hoses, new rear lines, 93 Cobra booster, 94/95 GT M/C all brand new parts. we bled the brakes over the weekend and got all the air (I think) out of the lines. I was finally able to take the car out today and I'm experiencing some problems.

With the engine off, the pedal is stiff with a little give.
With the engine On, pedal straight to the floor but pumping the brake a bit it hardens up.

I took the Car around the block and the pedal was going straight to the floor (unsafe to drive) so I got it back home and noticed the Booster is making a Whooshing sound and the pedal takes a bit to come up, seems to only do this when the engine is running, Vacuum leak?

I'm thinking there could still be air in the lines, potentially a bad M/C or booster these are all brand new parts I know that doesn't mean anything but it's unlikely. I have a brand new 93 cobra M/C I could swap out if I need to.

Anyone have any suggestions or obvious things I might have missed, I checked for leaks and nothing was evident.

Driving the 65 I noticed the column mounted tach not working so tonight I took a look.

I found a black wire hanging free (turns out it had come free from its connector at the under dash ground screw. Funny thing though is I checked it with the meter and when I turn the lights on it has 12V. This is the ground wire coming FROM the tach.

The tach (AutoGuage) only has 4 wires: Green (signal from the terminal on the dizzy), Red (keyed IGN 12v), Black (Ground) and White (12v from light switch).
So just to confirm, I checked and found there IS continuity between the ground and the white wires which from what I've read there should not be, So I went all the way up to the tach wires and cut the white wire to see if there was still continuity between both out of the tach and sure enough with the light bulb in there was but with the light bulb out there wasn't.
I then took the cover off the tach and checked the Black and White terminals right on the circuit board. Yep there's continuity.

So I am a WTF stage. Should the ground wire carry 12v when the light switch is on? I thought ground wires should not carry 12v. Or is my tach's circuit board NFG?

Any electrically minded out there???

Chris

So i just picked up the innova OBD1 code reader.

When I try to scan in Key on Engine Off mode, it will cycle the fuel pump and then start reading codes.

With the car running, when I attempt to start the scan, it kills the motor.

Am I missing something here?

I'd like to purchase a window sticker for my car. Right now it seems there are two sources.


and



The difference being $60 for the Marti sticker and $80 for the Fordshowparts. Does anyone have examples of each? I'd like to see what is the better product, because $20 difference for a piece of paper is a lot. My concern is if they are both complete, and have the correct dealer info and such from where I bought my car.

I'm leaning Marti for obvious reasons.

Does anyone know what the code TOP-S on the 1966 Mustang Buck tag stands for. I know that it is fir convertible top but is the S telling me what color the top should be and if it is power ( which it is) or manual?

Any help us greatly appreciated.

hey guys, really stumped on this one. 91 gt 5.0

A little backstory, my car caught on fire from the battery. I replaced everything that was damaged, wiring etc. the ecm than had an issue that the fuel pump wouldn't kick on unless jumped so I sent out the ECM to get repaired. it came back and had a new issue where it would crank on the quarter turn so I sent it back and it came back still not fixed. So I decided just to buy a new one. I bought a mega squirt with the base 5.0 maps, I put it in, ran the vacuum line and it worked great besides not being able to idle without some throttle. As i was figuring that out I go to turn it on and then all of sudden it cranks great but no spark. If I take out the spout that disconnects the computer it does have spark. it gets fuel and everything else work's. I than put the old ECM back in and it has spark when I turn the key and it cranks. So my conclusion is somehow the new ECM went bad? I'm stumped really any help is appreciated

I've had trouble with my '91 LX 5.0 for some time. It started running very rich and progressed to the point where it barely ran. Think it was the computer, I took the car to a local shop owned by a guy that is into Fox bodies. He loaned me a spare computer he had, and it seemed to run fine. I sent my first computer in for repair, and it was too far gone. I bought another A9L on eBay and installed it. I returned his loaner to him and headed home. I live about eight miles from the shop and made it about halfway home when the same problem happened. I sent the second one in and it did have a few issues, but it was repaired and returned with a lifetime warranty. When I installed this computer, it seemed to run fine. I drove it five miles, shut the car off for an hour. When I was ready to go home, I made it about 100 yards, and it died. It restarted but died four times on the way home. I bought a third A9L and same problem. It ran for about two miles and died. I pulled the spout connector out and it runs fine. I have no idea where to go from here.