92 foxbody Dash wiring

Hello I am new to the Forum, I have a 92 Foxbody that was giving to me to restore.. This car was setup for drag racing but I would like to make it a street car.. So my question is all the wiring harnesses and fuse panels were taking out so what would be the best route to wiring up all my accessories such as headlights, brake light etc... Thank you in advance

My new II

Hello all, I'm new to this site. I just picked up a super nice high performance 1978 Mustang Coupe 5 spd. This is my 3rd Mustang II. Previously owned a '77 Cobra II and a '78 King Cobra. I just love these cars. The Coupe is running a '71 302 balanced and blueprinted, 5 spd. Tremac and Auburn 3:55 rear. The guy I bought it from put all kinds of HP goodies into her. I just started getting a driveline vibration I'm having checked out tomorrow. I removed the rear spoiler and ordered a new front spoiler. I'm getting the Magnum 400 wheels I just can't decide 215 60 15 or 235 60 14.

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Just joined, 2001 Mustang GT convertible.

Hi all,
I recently bought a 2001 Gt convertible and it is in pretty good shape but needs some TLC in a few areas.
So far I have replaced the hydraulic cylinders for the convertible top, put a new top on it ( what a nightmare), replaced some weather stripping, had a new clutch and throw out bearing installed, removed the visors and took them to an upholstery shop to have them redone and bought a new grille cowl to replace the cracked one and the new one would not install correctly so I took it back out and checked it against the original one ( which broke into five pieces when I took it out) and the new one is 1 1/8 " longer than the original so I'm returning it and i bought another one from a different place and I'm hoping it is the right size. Anyone else have this problem? Also, when the convertible top is in the full open position the right side is higher than the left. It was like that before I put the new top on and I was hoping the new top would fix it but no such luck. Is this normal or do I need to adjust something?

Fox 87+ door panels screw help

Finally put my pass side door panel on this weekend. It has been off the car since I purchased it in April. There were no screws in it other than the main ones for the arm rest when I took it off. The drivers side does not have any either. I do have a bag of misc screws that was in the pile o parts that came with the car. Can someone tell me what the correct Philips screws are for the arm rest, as well as the lower speaker cover? Thanks guys...

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Engine How far can you go with an A9L (or other) factory computer?

I have a 94 GT engine that I'm going to use the stock cam with some 1.7 rockers, a pair of AFR 185 Enforcers and an Explorer manifold. What would I need to do to make these work with an A9L computer? I really don't plan on adding any other performance stuff in the future or I'd take the steep learning curve on a MegaSquirt. (I really don't want to do that.)

My plan is to get a Painless harness and A9L for the swap as I'm not running it in a Mustang. The reason for using the stock cam is to keep a stock-ish idle, which I prefer and the heads are there for the slight performance improvement AND the saved 40# off the front of the car.

This is not the typical "bigger is better" combo. Just a nice, reliable/tractable combo that I can enjoy driving every day.

Rear end sounds like marbles in a tin can.

I had a local shop replace the pinion seal and rear housing gasket on my 2001 GT. When I got it back everything seemed fine, no leaks or noise. It ran as usual.
The next day I took it on the interstate for about 10 miles to a shopping center. On the way back the rear end started howling like a bad ring and pinion. I was a few miles from home so I continued. Every time I let off the throttle the noise was worse and by the time I pulled in the driveway the rear sounded like a can full of marbles. I assume it is a pinion problem since under load there was no noise.
I suspect the mechanic did not put the pinion nut on far enough and lost the pinion preload.
I contacted the shop and they of course want to check it out.
My question is since the rear now sounds like bearings eating themselves what sort of damage are we likely to find. I will not be present when they take it apart and do not want them to under sell any damage in an attempt to minimize the repairs I'm sure they are going to be responsible for.
In addition what else could have caused such a failure in such a short period of time after such a basically simple repair? No gear lube is all I can think of.
Has anyone else suffered a failure like this? What did you do, repair or replace the entire rear? What sort of cost? I am preparing myself for the shop denying responsibility.

1969 clutch and flywheel

I bought a 1969 tribute Mach 1. The car came with a 4 speed and aluminum bellhousing but no engine. I purchased a remanufactured 351 Windsor out of a 1984 F150 that came with the flywheel and clutch. When I tried bolting this setup to the bellhousing that came with the mustang, the flywheel was to large for the bellhousing. It’s a 164 tooth flywheel and the bellhousing that came with the car is aluminum. From my research on this forum, the aluminum bellhousings are for 157 tooth flywheels. I had a cast iron bellhousing laying around from an earlier 351 Cleveland build, so I tried it. Bolted up fine but then I discovered the pressure plate would catch on the bellhousing at certain points. I just need someone to help me with purchasing the correct flywheel and clutch setup that will bolt right up to what I have. Also what starter will work with the final setup. Here’s exactly what I have.

1984 351 windsor
1965 aluminum bellhousing C5DA
1971 cast iron bellhousing D1TA
1984 164 tooth flywheel
1984 11” diaphragm clutch

Which flywheel and clutch should I buy to work with either the aluminum or cast iron bellhousing. I can use either one.

Idle hangs at 1500 after revving.

Hello,

I have a 91 LX with a 347 stroker HCI EFI and I have had the car dyno tuned in the past and had the same issue. I am having a problem where when I rev the rpm gets stuck at 1500 for a few seconds then drops down to normal 800-900 range. I unplugged the IAC and revved it and it does not get stuck. I have tried motorcraft IAC and aftermarket and they both act the same when plugged in. I was thinking of doing the base idle reset but do not know what else would cause this. Please help.

1995 GT Transmission Issues don't make sense

I have a 1995 GT but had to stop driving because no matter what gear I tried to put it in it was drive. So it sat for awhile and when he went to move it he shifted into all the gears but slightly sluggish, after checking the tranny fluid we realized it was pretty dark so we got a new filter and changed the fluid. Kevin (my daughter named him after her favorite minion) ran beautifully for couple miles, he came home and there are no forward gears! We are at a loss, need to get him going because my Trailblazer met a doe yesterday and now needs fixed.

Engine STARTER GRINDING/RUBBING

Hello everyone, New to this page here.
I have a 1990 Mustang 5.0 ( manual T-5)
I just replaced the starter with a brand new SVE high torque mini starter from LMR. I also put in a new fender mount solenoid.
When I go to start the car, it makes a loud rubbing / grinding noise. It’s not the same noise as when the starter is grinding on the teeth, so I’m thinking maybe it’s rubbing it somehow. I don’t know what else to try. The car cranked PERFECTLY the first 2 times I tried to start the car right after I installed the new starter. After the 3rd time it started making a weird grinding / rubbing noise.
Any suggestions? I was Told that it could be my distributor gear that’s broke, I’m not getting enough power to the starter to make the bendix gear fully engage and I’ve heard that the starter is bad. I don’t know what to do, I’m in Phoenix/ Glendale, Az & cannot find a shop or individual that can help because I bought the parts.
BELOW IS A VIDEO OF WHAT THE NOISE IT MAKES. If the video doesn’t work, I have a video on my Instagram @jjaaywoz
THANK YOU! I’ll keep everyone updated

60 pin EEC extension cable

I saw that @Mustang5L5 is going to incorporate the Ford 007-00081 Rotunda EEC-IV Monitor Adapter into his DIY MS3 Harness.

@a91what, I bought one and am wanting to use it to extend my Pimp harness. Only concern I have is that the wires are a thinner gauge than almost all the ones in the pimp harness. Should I be concerned?

PS I’m using a Ron Francis Pimp harness

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Fox Question on Holley 4180C carburetor

I have a very original 1984 Mustang with 85k miles.

When I got this car, it had its original Holley 4180C carburetor. The car was hard to start. Had to pump the accelerator about 20 times if the car sat for a few days.

I had the 4180C overhauled but the hard starting was still there. The shop that did the overhaul of the carburetor finally determined that the metering block had a leak.

My car ran just fine after the 4180C overhaul, but I did not like having to pump the accelerator ten or twelve times to start my car after it had been sitting.

I finally decided to replace the carburetor in my car with a new Holley 4160. My Mustang now starts instantly regardless of how long it sits.

Questions:
1. What is the value of my original Holley 4180C?
2. Is there a plus to keep the original Holley 4180C so that it can stay with my Mustang when the day comes that I sell my Mustang?

Attached are some pictures of the 4180C carburetor.

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Brakes Prebent brake line help needed

Complete new stainless brake line kit for my 83 GLX..... getting around to installing the line that goes back to the rear and where it attaches to the line across the firewall is not going to work.... I have temporarilly attached it to the bottom of the car where it fits very well but you can see in the pictures its off where hooks to the firewall line...
I cannot bend it any more so I believe my option here is to cut and reflare one or both ends..
No I do not have a flairing tool or have I ever done any flairing before...
Thought I would take the line to a local shop and have them do it....
Anyone add some thoughts to this problem?
This brake kit fits 82-84 mustangs.....
Thanks
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Modified vs Stock

I am taking my 71 Mach 1 to a car show. The class I will be in is 1970 to 1985, stock or modified.

I am thinking I should choose modified.
Came out of the factory with a 2 bbl 302, AC, single exhaust, ford company hub caps and silver wheel rings.
When I bought it came with a 351 Windsor 2 bbl carb with adapter to fit 4 bbl manifold, AC not working, ford company hub caps and silver wheel rings.
I have had a new 4 bbl summit carb, chrome valve covers, new vintage air, dual exhaust. Everything else no change.

Should I be registered in the Modified or stock?

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Electrical A9L repair service

'91 5.0 began running poorly/missing etc. A friend with a shop had a known good A9L we swapped in and cured the problem. He needed his test unit back, so I bought a used A9L off eBay. I opened the case on my original ECM but saw no bad capacitors or burned traces. Has anyone sent their ECM in to a company for repair, if so what company? Since these are getting harder to find I'd like to have a backup on hand.

Electrical 1987 GT Wiring

I just bought this 87 GT and someone decided to go with a carb, I’m in the process of swapping it back over to EFI and I’ve run into some wiring issues. I’ve got two wires with connectors on them under the drivers side dash that I can’t find a home for. One is yellow and the other is gray with a yellow stripe. I’m pretty sure the yellow one comes off of the ignition switch but I can’t find anywhere to plug either of them into. All help and suggestions are greatly appreciated

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Who's fixed strut towers on these cars before?

This just got dropped off today. Will be my third time fixing rotted rails, just normal in the NE these days.... I've used an nos oem full apron before, and I used fox rails oe kit but its designed around early rails and has holes the 87-93 don't and you need to Fab a panel if the rot creeped up the tower other wise a good kit....

This car isnt to bad but the drivers rail is bulging from internal rot just below the strut tower, so might as well fix it and paint the engine bay.... its a run of the mill Gt I'll probably end up selling when I get bored of it. I'm not sure I want to waste an oem apron on it... These went out of stock then back in stock after I order it so I'm guessing there down to the last few NOS full aprons. So I'm thinking I should probably save this for a coupe or a better car in the future and just fab my own. Most repair kits you can tell when its been patched and they don't really follow the oem design, took some work to make fox rail kit look factory so I'm thinking about doing an internal sleeved splice on this one and just saving this for a better project car.

Fox stereo speaker wiring

I have replaced the stereo in my 89 LX with an aftermarket Bluetooth stereo. I bought the wiring adapter to plug into the factory harness. The unit powers up fine but no sound from the speakers. I tried another stereo, same thing. That's when I noticed the factory harness only has 5 speaker wires where there aftermarket plug has eight wires. Am I correct in assuming that there are 4 positive wires and 1 common ground in the factory harness? If so can I just repin the aftermarket unit to run all the positives to the positive connection on the factory harness and then wire the 4 ground wires to the common ground of the factory harness?

Ignition Question

I am getting ready to finish up my 331 installation and carb conversion on my 90 fox.
Here is my question:
What is the best (most reliable) ignition system to use?
For every person that says "Go with MSD " there are ten more that say they are Chinese junk and will not last.
What else is there? Original Ford Duraspark? I know that's good stuff, but it's getting old...What do you guys run on your daily drivers?
What an awesome community!

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