I'm buying head gaskets for the motor I'm rebuilding, AutoZone has a Felpro kit with 33pcs and rock auto has an engine tech branded kit including 31pcs the only differences iv noticed in the kits are: head gasket on the engine tech kit had blue rings around the coolant passageways, and the Felpro one dose not, the Felpro one has 2 small dowels that come with the kit, the engine tech one dose not. finally the Felpro one comes with a quark valve cover gasket and the engine tech one looks like it comes with the blue rubber Felpro gasket.

link for Felpro gasket set
link for engine tech gasket set

Also I dont know what the small washer looking gaskets are for, i think there in both listings but i would like to know because i dont remember pulling them off my engine while dismantling it.

parts in question are circled below (may have to open link above because of my circling job)

Ok guys, here's one that will blow your mind. I have a 2001 GT that won't start. Here's everything that I've done to resolve the problem. After changing the oil I went to start it and the PATS light was blinking like crazy... These aren't in any order, just a list of what I've done.

1). I had two new keys made.
2). Reprogrammed the ECU to disable the PATS system.
3). Checked all of the fuses both inside and under the hood.
4). Checked all relays.
5). Replaced the crankshaft position sensor.
6). Replaced the camshaft position sensor.
7). Checked the fuel cut off switch in the trunk.
8). Replaced the ignition switch.
9). The OBDII shows no faults.
10). Replaced the gas tank and fuel pump.
11). Have 63 psi fuel line pressure while trying to crank it.
12}. Replaced the CCRM module.
13). Replaced the MAF sensor.

At this point I'm open to suggestions. I'm on the verge of installing a Holley engine management system.

Thanks!

I have a 87 gt with a t5. I’ve been daily driving this car for a while and it’s been perfect. But recently I’ve been getting a popping noise coming from under the car when I push the clutch in, and I can feel it in the clutch. BUT it only does it after the cars been warmed up and I’ve driven if for like 10 mins. Jacked the car up and looked inside the bell housing and everything in there seems fine. I had someone push the clutch repeatedly and it went away when I pushed on the cable. I tightened the cable and put grease on the clutch fork and pivot nut(whatever it’s called) and it’s better but still happens when warmed up. Any advice helps, thank you

Hey all,

I'm having an issue with my 1991. The car has been sitting for a month or two with a leaking power steering high pressure line; I have not had time to fix it but I've been starting the car up every week and letting it get up to temp.

Last weekend, I started it up, everything seemed fine, aside from the leaking power steering line which I kept a close eye on. Car was running for maybe 3 minutes when it started barfing coolant out of the purge tank, which had become completely full. I shut if off immediately. No apparent milkshake in the coolant, didn't have time to mess with anything else. I don't know if it's a stuck thermostat, or if air somehow got in the system (bad radiator cap? Radiator is relatively new). Car had been driving fine before I parked it due to the issue with the power steering leak. It has had a "coolant low" light on intermittently for a while, but I had frequently checked the coolant and the level was fine.

To help in the diagnosis, below is a list of modifications done by the previous owner (according to him)...........sorry in advance for the wall of text……...

1991 Mustang LX 5.0 5-sp. hatchback.

Modifications per previous owner - all done within 10k miles ago (I have omitted suspension and interior mods for obvious reasons):

“Rebuilt” original 302 w/approx. 105k miles on car, 5k miles since rebuild; ARP bolts/hardware used
Ford Racing B303 Cam
SVE cylinder heads
Ford Racing hardened pushrods
Ford Racing hydraulic lifters
Trick Flow RR 1.6
Ported Ford GT40 upper and lower intakes with 1/2 inch phenolic intake plenum spacer
AEM adjustable FPR with liquid-filled pressure gauge
DUI Billet aluminum HD distributor with MSD coil
Summit Ceramic shorty headers
Cat deletes
Smog system deleted
H-pipe with Flowmaster 40 series mufflers
New brake master cylinder with brake booster
New aluminum radiator with overflow tank
New motor mounts (OEM)
Polished aluminum UDP’s (BBK)
Upgraded 3G alternator with wiring
New water pump
New timing gear kit with timing cover
New hoses for heater core and radiator
New heater core and AC evap
BBK fender well cold air intake
BBK 65MM TB with new IAC valve and Ford Racing adjustable IAC plate
New TPS sensor with adjustable plate
New IAT sensor
New oil pump with oil pressure sensor
New fuel pump (OEM) with fuel filter and fuel level sending unit
“Salt and pepper shakers reworked”
OEM computer checked and capacitors replaced
Chrome valve covers (not stock style)
New OEM harmonic balancer
New engine seals, including front and rear main seals
New OEM clutch fan

Since I have had the car, I have done the following:

New Duralast distributor with new TFI
New Accel coil
New AC compressor
New pushrods, guide plates, inspected lifters, and adjusted rockers - apparently there was an issue with the lash/preload adjustment and the
guide plates were gouged out a bit and there was some valve train noise. The entire valve train was inspected professionally, pushrods replaced in an abundance of caution, and rockers adjusted properly.

Car was tuned by Thunder Autosports.
New valve covers (old ones were leaking oil)
Rebuilt rear end again
Computer wiring checked, another new TFI put on
New power steering rack

I don't know what's going on. Should I run the car with the radiator cap off to try to burp air from the system? Stuck thermostat maybe? Head gasket? Cracked head or block?

Seems like just another random problem on a car that I've put a lot of money into and was "built properly" and then had been gone through by various mechanics and professional shops.

I just got a 95 Gt5.0, it didnt run when i got it, went through alot but now it runs, but it had a weird problem and im lost. A little back info, when i got it the original owner said it had a bad fuel pump, so i put a new pump, it started but ran like the timing was way off, no power, revved slow, was popping through intake. The car has 200k on it, so i went to check timing and realized it had alot of new parts, someone has been chasing this issue. New distributor, cap and rotor, new wires, new IAC, new tps, i put new plugs. Tried resetting timing but it was all over the place, pulled timing set chain was sloppy, new timing set. Now heres the weird part, when i started it first time after timing set, i forgot to plug in the maf, started perfect, reved like it should no missfire, after a minute or two it went into limp mode i plugged the maf back in and runs like crap again. Replaced the maf, runs way better but still randomly starts running like crap and popping again. Im out of ideas. When i changed the timing set i also added a new harmonic balancer. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Extra info, compression test showed 160-165 across all cylinders, fuel pressure holding 38-40, timing set at 14 with connector out. Issue is only between 1k-2k rpm runs clean about that.

Like the title says. Rubber, cork, RTV or something else? All insight or opinions are appreciated!

Hi I have a 1994 mustang that I swapped form a v6 to the 5.0L v8 and swapped parts so it basically is acting like a 94 gt. I have been having problems with the alternator not charging when the car gets warm and you leave it at idle. It dips down to 12.6 6 volts or something and reads low on the gauge but instantly when you get started going again it’s fine. I have replaced the alternator with one from a pick a park redid my grounds even putting on that was missing on the from the back of the intake. It seemed to help but not really with the charging at idle. My question are: What should be the stalk 1994 mustang gt idle for a stick shift (mine is just a tad bit over 500 but I have heared it is to be around 700) and would a low idle make a difference? Is this the sign of a bad ground, big draw from some place in the car or sign of bad diodes (I don’t think this because I have had the same thing with two different alternators). Hope some one can help.

Full Suspension Techniques/Bell Tech sway bar kit for a fox body. Never been used, missing end links. Rear sway bar was incorrectly welded on one side where it meets that square plate, so it's a touch off where it will not mount flush with the lower control arm on one side. Good for someone who can fix this on their own.

Please make me an offer. Local Pick Up only in the Los Angeles area.

More info:

I just bought my son an 04 3.8 v6 auto and having some issues. Got it home and found scanner would not talk to the Ecm, went to pic a part and got a new Ecm (from 04 3.9) after testing all powers and grounds. Installed new Ecm and now can communicate. Turn key and no fuel pump, so all the testing and find the pump bad, install new pump (yeah fuel pressure, showing 60psi through scanner). Still no start, it will start with staying fluid. Fuel issue, check for power at injectors and have 12 volts ( don't have a noid light, so I connected a 921 bulb, no light during crank (don't know if this would work or not). Checked cam position, in scanner I show 180rpm. Where do I go next?
No codes and keys programmed to the Ecm.
Thanks

Any guess on the value of this ? Asked on Facebook and got nothing useful. Works as it should. Needs a bulb for the clock. Deciding if I should sell or store it. I don’t see me keeping the car it came from long term.

2003 GT Convertible. Should be a simple fix, but my fan only blows on high. Would this be a switch or the fan itself. I am a fabulous plumber but the electrical is not my strong suite.

Hi all.

Has anyone used this? I’ve read some reviews and saw a YouTube video on the install. Looks simple and clean.

Would like to hear your thoughts if you’ve used this.

Looking to put this in a 93 LX 5.0.


Thanks!!

Hello all . For a lil bit I was trying to track down a pesky airleak I knew I was hearing but even with a stethoscope couldnt seem to find it..

Today I got scientifically midevil on my approach and it paid off...

I took one of my IAC's and bolted it to plexiglass drillled a hole on one side and added a hose barb then tapped and JB welded it in to be leak-free then slapped on my handheld vacuum pump and pulled it to -10 inches and it quickly dropped to Zero so I took it apart and this is what I found...

Right here in this area on this Duralast brand IAC there is an o-ring to seal this area but the o-ring that was installed wasnt thick enough to properly seal against -10 inches of mercury so I used a thicker o-ring from a fuel injector seal and retested..





This time the vacuum held alot better and dropped to zero slower than the first time so I put the body in water and added pressure and low n behold I found 2 more very tiny airleaks and they are the tiny dimples where the end cap is only crimped on.....I sealed the endcap with clear all-purpose epoxy and then retested and it held vacuum...



Then the other issue was the weak power of the pusher spring that held the plunger against the IAC body to create a seal when closed but it had quite a bit of air getting by the plunger so I calculated in my head about how much air was getting by the plunger seal and I made a new gasket with smaller holes using a paper hole puncher to control the rate of air so the IAC can control idle faster and more accurately..



All of the fixes/changes paid off as now my idle is very steady with my abnormal idle symptoms gone.....

And just to further this scientific study I took another IAC a Ford Motorcraft one that was giving me similar idle issues and found something very interesting too.....Under this black looking cap is a tube thats completely open and the cap allows some air to get past so I put JB Weld in the lil hole on that IAC plus snapped the black cap back on and when tested both of them now work as intended and gave no issues like they did prior................

I have a beautiful GT Convertible for sale. The one previous owner who I recently purchased it from was the accountant a local Ford dealership. She lovingly and meticulously maintained it since new. I have every single record for every oil change, state inspection and windshield wiper change in a big red binder. I even have the original sales order spec sheet and promotional materials. Her only reason for selling was a recent broken leg and age related issues.

Since my purchase, I have completed a full interior and exterior detail, replaced a few engine management sending units, replaced the radiator, related hoses, thermostat and front shocks. I also replaced all front lights with Late Model Restoration units. All FORD original lights come with the car. There is not one drop or leak of any fluid. Every accessory works as intended. AC, heat, radio with tape deck, all power windows, power top etc... all work perfectly. This past week in PA we had a lot of rain and there was not one drop on the inside.

The car starts, idles, revs, drives beautifully! It sounds exactly as the good Lord intended.

The CarFax is likely perfect. All panels are factory original. There may be one corner where a PDR guy did a small blend. It is had to tell. The undercarriage has very slight surface rust in some areas. Otherwise it is in lovely condition.

The car comes with original tools, covers, spare everything as per factory.

Please take the time to see the car in person. I have a large heated garage with a lift.

Located in Malvern, PA. Just West of Philadelphia.

Miles: 122,700
Price $14,500 OBO

I was just finishing up a mini starter conversion and battery relocation. I got rid of the fender solenoid in favor of a distribution block and relay.

I was about to connect the battery and thought, *let me just make sure everything is good first*
Well it's not.... I have a dead short between the 2 sides
I've found the short to ground is on the yellow wire that feeds the 4 fusible links.
the distribution block is about 5 inches from where the solenoid was mounted. The wire harness was already tucked (in the fender) prior to this project, with no issues.

i have wiggle tested the harness from yellow wire to firewall, with the meter connected, and no change in the short.

What do these links feed and are there any common spot where they may short out?

installing t56 trany in 78 stang. Keeping original cable drive speedo. Going to try Cable x box from Abbott Enterprises. Hear good results and been around awhile. Anyone ever use it or have any thoughts on it. Thanks!

Figured I’d share this super cool car I just finished up . Holley term x install on this cool clean 90 my buddy has . It’s a gt40 headed / intake with probably a b cam deal . 3.55s and full MM suspension. In prep for a blower I went ahead and put the Holley in .

This car I was tasked with making sure the full factory cluster still worked , AC had to function like factory , even the cruise still works . Stripped open the harness and took the AC circuit with me as well as some other stuff . Cleaned up some wiring in the process .

The car literally drives night and day better and makes way more power especially in the mid range .

He wanted the hand held display mounted . Tried to get him to keep it in the glove box to be stealthy . So I mounted to try and make it look as if it were an extension of the dash

This car reminded me of why I fell in love with these cars . Such a cool old school combo that works .

After 18 days in the hospital (hell) I'm out and I have two weeks of nothing to do,can't lift over ten lbs.
Wanted to go to pick a part yesterday, the dam battery is dead as dog . Over 4 years old so it's due.
AutoZone duralast gold = 3year free replacement =$200.99
Costco interstate = 3 year free replacement = $74.99
Oh what do I do?

So I was just going through some old Dyno Charts and wanted to share some of the comparisons I found and notes to help those looking to add power to their 2Vs.

Below is a Dyno comparison that Pro-Dyno did back in the day (2007ish) to show what type of gains can be made from Ported PI heads and switching to TFS Heads (Which were ported by Fox Lake).

A Couple of things to note:

- This was on different day's and about a few weeks apart.
- The same VT Stage II cam was used
- I did find out much later that the exhaust valve timings were off due to PI specific cams in a TFS Heads but does show a good comparison as a baseline.
NOTE: The valve timing on the exhaust could be off as much as 10 degrees and MHS has a video on youtube that explains this..
- This is with the Stock PI intake and 78mm BBK TB Combo
- The TFS Heads would have benefitted from a higher lift cam and proper timing - Dan from Pro-Dyno had to tune around the issue in low/mid Timing and Fuel curves as he noted something was odd at the time due to the PI cam in the TFS Head as we now know...
- This would have picked up more HP and TQ with a higher lift on intake and exhaust so could have been a bunch on the table in the low, mid and high ranges since the 2v likes a lot of timing in the low to mid range which launches into the higher RPM range...

Apples to apples it was a great increase and shows the potential for the TFS Heads and setup..

I'm working on the wiring in my dash and I'm looking for the instrument cluster to a 2000 area cluster. I cannot find one anywhere.

When i cold start and engine is going though its warm up idles is fine. Once i have drove car some and it nice and warmed up it has a surge when stopped idling at
a stop sign. What are common causes of a warm idle surge.

Current tune attached. I did do a log but its to large to attach.

Does this make any sense to you guys... I have oil (at least looks and feels like oil) leaking out of thermactor plug on the front of the left (driver) side head. I assumed I had a bad exhaust valve seal but I just checked and none of the plugs have any signs of oil getting in a cylinder. Where else would oil come from to leak out of the thermactor plug? Heads are AFR 165's.

Howdy! I am new to the forum, but not new to the mustangs. I am on my third New Edge and I think I finally found the perfect one - its a 2003 Mach 1 in blue color with original shaker hood. The condition isn't as good as one would desire, but It is what it is. It runs drives great, although there are some mechanical issues that I will be fixing in my spare time.

Cheers!

This is supposed to be an entire 1993 Foxbody hardness set, I don't know if it came from a coupe, hatchback or convertible. These came from a very low mileage 1993 Mustang removed in 1994, these came as a package deal when I purchased the engine. These are the harness I'm only guessing their names: Engine, O2, Injector, Headlight, body and some smaller harnesses. These have all had the sleeves removed so they will need to be rewrapped, this does allow you to see the condition of all the wires. All of the plugs are labeled, there are 3 wires that have been cut, but they are long so there should be no problem repairing them. The wiring is outstanding, and all the plugs appear to me in good shape. The engine ECU is not included, but there is a smaller ECU which I'm guessing is for the body harness. $500 for all harness'

This is a Ford Racing engine harness, this will also include the O2, injector harness' and the instructions (with my notes of how it was hooked up). The harness is complete with not cut wires. The injector harness has two injector plugs which are broken (another harness included for the plugs). The O2 harness is in good condition and wired for a Standard transmission, the speed sensor plug is missing ( I didn't use a stock speed sensor), so you will have to find that plug or just use a standard two wire plug. This all came off of my 62 Falcon which ran great, I upgraded to a Holley Terminator because of difficulty tuning for the 347. Asking $350