2004 Mach 1 WOT fuel/spark issue?

You know what, Nightfire has a point. Go back and re trace your steps.
I have plenty of times. I ohmed the crank position sensor and cam position sensor after your recommendation. Crank position sensor was 325 ohms, cam sensor was 330 ohms. Seems like a fairly normal reading according to a quick google search. Also the battery is good. The battery voltage in my data logging stays between 12v and 14v. The alternator is a good idea. Probably worth getting it tested. I will check the transmission speed sensor as well, but it also has the same problem in neutral. Any gear including neutral. And checking the injectors is a good idea I will check out as well.

Fuel Factory Flexible Fuel Line

Thanks AeroCoupe! I am the original owner and the only time the fuel rails & hoses were removed was when the engine was rebuilt and I don't recall seeing any damage. I'll take a closer look when I get further along with the injector upgrade. Seems like I have seen some clamping systems similar to the factory one but I can't remember where? Used some specialized tools as I recall?

Progress Thread Floor pan repair/build thread

Another day of what feels like little progress. I got the rear quarters dyed and I feel like they came out pretty well. Let me know what you all think.
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Not the best photos and even though they’re not the same panel they both pretty much looked the same before and they both came out great on the after. Definitely happy with it. I also got the new computer bracket in and the new evaporator drain seal in.

If you all have been through the whole thread you’ll remember I complained about the subframe connectors rattling against the drain on the passenger floor pan, I fixed that today with a piece of the scraps from the closed cell foam. Tomorrow will be dedicated to dyeing the dash and the rest of the plastic interior pieces.

Here are some pictures of the trim pieces in the car
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Progress Thread Floor pan repair/build thread

So your torque boxes have small cracks and no where near ripped.

My Miller mig is 110/220 and will weld with shielding gas on 110. Keep shipping welders until you can find one that does both 110/220 and can work with shielding gas.
That’s relieving to hear. I didn’t know how bad they actually were in the grand scheme of things. I’ll check some more another day when it’s jacked up again for any more cracks or tears. I’ll definitely get a gas 110/220 as that’s what I wanted to begin with I just didn’t know that was a thing. I greatly appreciate your help and all the help you’ve provided so far.

Do any of you guys own a 2017-2023 Ford F150 with a 10 speed transmission?

I've got a 2018 with the 10 speed. There are times when the transmission feels a little weird at slow speeds (clunky shifting, mushy) and the occasional clunky shift under moderate acceleration but it's not terrible. If I had a choice I'd go with the 6 speed. Love the coyote engine, lots of power and pretty decent gas mileage

Progress Thread Floor pan repair/build thread

Weld them up the same way as the cracks for the seat mount. Would also suggest stitch welding the seams where the torque box contacts the floor pan and subframes. Helps with strength and stiffens things up. Do this on both the uppers and lowers. Look for pulled spot welds and address them as well. Welding the uppers will require pulling the back seat and having fire watch. If you are by yourself you can soak a heavy towel and cover the area you are welding in the car.

Wanted to add to my comments above. You will need to remove the UCA's and LCA's from the body mounts so you can also weld up the seams that are on the inside of the torque boxes and upper mounts. Also, cannot stress this enough, clean the areas that you are going to weld. The cleaner they are the better the weld quality will be. Start with degreasing everything then move to a wire wheel (you can get 1/4" shank wire brushes for your cordless drill) and get all the surface rust, paint, etc. off the weld area. After you weld them up wire brush everything again, wipe down with some brake cleaner, allow dry time, use an etching primer, and then either paint or use undercoating.

I just removed the rear end and drive shaft so my buddy had a lot of room to weld things up. If you do not want to change transmission fluid at this time you will need a tail housing plug to put in the trans when you pull the drive shaft. You will also need to plan on plugging the brake lines. I also ended up cleaning up the rear end (power washed, degreased, wire wheeled, and painted) while it was out of the car.

Is it a lot of work? Yes, but if you do all of this your car will thank you and your wallet will later down the road.
I appreciate the info. I guess it’s time for me to stop making excuses and finally get a welder. I’ll only be able to get a flux core for the foreseeable future since I don’t have my shop yet and only have access to 110. Do you think a flux core would do as long as I’m extremely careful and practice plenty before attempting the welds? Also for the one big crack should I drill a small hole in the end of it before welding as well?

I need to replace the upper and lower control arms anyway so I guess that would be a perfect time to do all of that. I’m honestly disappointed that the boxes are ripped but happy I found it before it got bad. If you have any advice on flux core that would be wonderful because I’m so new to welding it’s not even funny. I once again really appreciate all the info and advice

Engine Leaking water pump. Can I use RTV on the back cover?

Are you referring to the back plate on the WP? So it's leaking at the bottom between the WP and the back plate?

If so, I had this problem on both my 90 coupe and 93 lx hatch after replacing the WP. I would get a slow drip when car was running. It would stop once the car was off.

I would put permatex form a gasket. And blue loc tite on the back plate bolts.

Honestly it drove me nuts, but after a few heat cycles both stopped leaking.

water pump torque specs

Old post I see, yet I am doing more parts on the 94 now. Was trying to find any if at all any torque specs go the water pump.
In the past I had always been tighten until tight for a water pump. But if it will let me here is a general torque spec sheet for different type bolts and different applications. Hope it can be useful.

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First upgrades on 89 5.0

Hate to be a fan boy but if you contact Ed Curtis (have one of his cams in the 331 in my Coupe) he can line you out on the heads, cam, and intake (sells all of that) as a package and it will absolutely work. I will say that if you can find an off the shelf cam and you do not have a few months to wait for one of his custom grinds then do that route.

Progress Thread Floor pan repair/build thread

Weld them up the same way as the cracks for the seat mount. Would also suggest stitch welding the seams where the torque box contacts the floor pan and subframes. Helps with strength and stiffens things up. Do this on both the uppers and lowers. Look for pulled spot welds and address them as well. Welding the uppers will require pulling the back seat and having fire watch. If you are by yourself you can soak a heavy towel and cover the area you are welding in the car.

Wanted to add to my comments above. You will need to remove the UCA's and LCA's from the body mounts so you can also weld up the seams that are on the inside of the torque boxes and upper mounts. Also, cannot stress this enough, clean the areas that you are going to weld. The cleaner they are the better the weld quality will be. Start with degreasing everything then move to a wire wheel (you can get 1/4" shank wire brushes for your cordless drill) and get all the surface rust, paint, etc. off the weld area. After you weld them up wire brush everything again, wipe down with some brake cleaner, allow dry time, use an etching primer, and then either paint or use undercoating.

I just removed the rear end and drive shaft so my buddy had a lot of room to weld things up. If you do not want to change transmission fluid at this time you will need a tail housing plug to put in the trans when you pull the drive shaft. You will also need to plan on plugging the brake lines. I also ended up cleaning up the rear end (power washed, degreased, wire wheeled, and painted) while it was out of the car.

Is it a lot of work? Yes, but if you do all of this your car will thank you and your wallet will later down the road.
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Drivetrain 91-93 Four Cylinder Five Speed Cars - No Neutral Gear Switch (NGS) Wiring

A little more information on how the ECU uses the NGS in its strategy (copied from a post over on foureyedpride.com):

That switch (on the top forward part of the T5's cover) is actually called the Neutral Gear Switch (NGS) by Ford and has a very specific purpose - both during normal operation of your car and during EEC diagnostic testing. It does not have anything to do with starting circuit.

There is a second switch on the passenger side of the pedal assembly which is the switch that kicks the cruise control out when the clutch is depressed.

*Side note - the switch on automatic transmissions is called the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) by Ford. Do not confuse the terminology of the two as the NSS is wired into the starting circuit.

If you have a manual trans car the 'safety' switch for the starter is located on the driver side of the pedal assembly. This is the Clutch Safety Switch (CSS) and it has two plugs. The black plug is part of the starter circuit and the clear / white plug is part of the NGS wiring. The clutch must be depressed for the starter to operate (regardless of whether the trans is in gear or neutral).

The NGS circuit consists of the NGS switch in the top plate of the T5 and the clear / white plug side of the CSS switch. These switches are wired in parallel and are to signal the EEC as the when the engine is under load or not. The contacts on the NGS are closed when the trans is in neutral and the contacts in the CSS on the clutch pedal are closed with the pedal depressed (clutch disengaged). Closure of either switch signals the EEC that the engine is not under load and the EEC responds by adjusting idle speed, injector pulse width, etc. to assure smooth idle and/or idle down. Yes, this signal is sent every time you step on the clutch pedal - even momentarily while shifting gears. The EEC-IV responds to changing engine loads in milliseconds.

The failure (or disconnection) of either of these switches is actually planned for by Ford as failure usually means it will be open. Open tells the EEC that the car is under load. The NGS circuit arrangement and EEC program strategy is such that it is better for the EEC to think that it is under load when it's not. So theoretically you could remove/disable both switches in the 'open' condition and your car would probably run about the same. Perhaps there would be a bit more idle than you would otherwise need being the EEC strategy would be seeing under load conditions.

But wait, Ford's programming engineers have a small trip wire built into this circuit. In order to run the KOEO EEC-IV self-diagnostic test the EEC must be signaled that the engine is disconnected from the drivetrain (i.e. same as not under load with the engine running). To do this at least one switch must be 'closed' (i.e. trans in neutral or clutch pedal depressed). If the EEC does not get this signal while in the KOEO routine it will create a code 67 and will not let you proceed to KOER tests. So if your trans mounted NGS has failed - and failed 'open' - then you would need to rely on the clutch switch to create the required circuit connection during KOEO/KOER. You need to consider this as it can be a real pain to perform KOEO/KOER test while sitting in the driver seat with your foot on the clutch pedal (although it can be done if you are getting codes by reading MIL flashes, but only on vehicles that have a MIL lamp (89+???).

Progress Thread Floor pan repair/build thread

So this isn’t related to the interior rebuild but I did want to get everyone’s advice on this. I was reading some threads on torque boxes and them being torn which would cause popping in the rear. I decided to check mine today and the first two pictures are the drivers side. There’s two rips on it with one being next to the LCA and the other being closer to the body. The passenger side has one small rip next to the body and the fourth picture is just how the lower torque box looks. The upper torque boxes seem to be okay and don’t look too bad aside from being crusty. I don’t see any visible rips in them or the sheet metal beside them. The lowers are a little deformed from the years of jacking up on them is my best guess

So do these rips look fixable? Do you all think this could be my popping noise when creeping slowly though a parking lot or just creeping slowly in general? I’ve checked the bushings and while they’re not the best all the control arm bushings are pretty solid. The u joints are good and I’m not sure the condition of the clutch packs in the rear but I have had the gears swapped from 4.10s to 3.55s and was told everything looked okay. It popped before and after the gear swap.
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