I've never seen anyone make it work faster but it may be possible with Forscan. It tunes and programs just about everything. Can even turn off the daytime running lights.

Noobz347 said:

I have had it in the back of my mind to look for a side by side comparison video. It's one of those things I never think about when I sit down.

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I've never been able to drive one of my SRA cars against one of my IRS cars on the same course, but I've competed against and driven a lot of SRA and IRS Mustangs. I'm sure many people will disagree with me, but I think it all comes down to driving.

I appreciate you checking out my videos. My cars are actually not fully-prepped for CAM-T (It's a pretty open class in terms of mods). None of the cars in my results videos currently use coil-overs or aftermarket K-members. One of my reasons for creating my channel was to show people what these cars can do without those mods. There are definitely inexpensive ways to eliminate the weak links and fundamentally change the personality of the car without turning it into a race car. If you have any questions, please ask.

Both of my SN95 Mustang autocross cars have been converted to IRS. The IRS is great (when properly modified), but it's hard to get all of the weak links out with a budget build. You can make an SRA Mustang handle much better than stock on a budget. Having heard the debate for many, many years, I decided to make this video:

I use 18x9" +30 offset American Muscle FR500 rims on my 1992 GT with an SN95 Cobra rear axle. My rear fenders aren't rolled, cut or flared, and I still use quad-shocks. I've had no issues with my 245/40/18 tires rubbing on an autocross course. Having said that, no two Fox Body Mustangs are the same. LMR has good descriptions on their website for their rims. They often include fitment options/warnings.

You can also use www.willtheyfit.com to determine where your new rims will sit compared to your old rims.

For autocross, a square setup is better than a staggered setup. A staggered setup adds understeer to a car that already has a tendency to understeer.

I have a lot of autocross information (including budget autocross tips) on my YT channel: https://www.youtube.com/@warhorseracing/videos

I'm happy to answer any questions you might have about setting your car up for autocross.

Mustang5L5 said:

Yup. Cyl 5 not firing.

Test the injector. Measure resistance across the two prongs if you unplug the connector. Should be 14.4ohms of resistance.

Could also be spark and/or compression related. I assume the port is not blocked so air should be getting in.

Up to you to see which one you tackle first.

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That was the one I tested with the Noid light test when it wouldn't fire and it was getting power. Will try out the ohms. Wouldn't surprise me if it was the injector being all original

It's got new plugs, coil and wires.

AeroCoupe said:

I sent a spare set of Coupe quarter windows to Fox Mustang Restoration a few years back and had them completely replace the outer molding. This is before the price increase and they look like brand new. Still in the box as I am saving them for when I go completely back through the car. I did not want to mess with the whole sand, fill, more filling and all that as I am not a paint and body guy. I saved some money over time and just bit the bullet and had them do it. Worth every penny to me but others may not think so.

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Do you they do it anymore?
I remember when i received the email update that they would doing hatch quarter windows, tire kicked it for a little while and when i went back to sign on to get it done their entire site was scrubbed of anything quarter window related.
It was expensive and took a while to talk myself into, but i was open to it only to see no signs of it.

Mustang5L5 said:

Pin 46 is sensor ground. You actually want to measure the voltage between 46 and 46.


If it’s running better, dump codes again.

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Alright that worked. Koeo no codes just 11 and no memory codes
KOER CODES 33 for EGR not opening properly, 41&91 HEGO (HO2S) sensor signal out of range/always lean and HEGO (HO2S)sensor voltage low/system lean.

Balance test ran and came back with code 50. Assuming somethings wrong on cylinder 5

Mustang5L5 said:

Pin 46 is sensor ground. You actually want to measure the voltage between 46 and 46.


If it’s running better, dump codes again.

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Ok gotcha, I did pin 47 and 60 for the reading. Will pull codes again

As purchased.

Mustang5L5 said:

Code 63 is your TPS voltage is too low. That means the ECU is reading less than 0.5 volts.


I think you measured 0.9-1V at the TPS sensor, but you shoyld see what you have down at the ECU. With the ECU plugged in and key ON, backprobe pin 47 and 46. Pin 47 is the signal return from the TPS. What do you have here? If oyu have 1V at the sensor, but 0.2v at the ECU, you have a connection problem somewhere.

98 (r): Hard fault present. The PCM is running in FMEM (Failure Effects Management Mode). Something is messed up. I would troubleshoot the code 63 first before proceeding. That may be causing a hard fault (especially if that wire is shorted)

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Ok so key on I'm getting .96 to tps and at pin 47 I'm getting .93. Pin 46 I'm getting nothing.

On an odd note the car seems to be running better all by itself? I was able to unplug the IAC and it didn't die so I did the base idle reset.

I'm just so confused but at least it seems to be running

If you ain't sideways you ain't have'n any fun

I moved this to the SN95 V6 forum, I will say I think you need a throw out bearing and/or a pilot bearing, either way your prolly yank'n the trans.
Welcome to

Stop jumping around, you will need to start at the idle adjustment, this is what I would do, now I'm not a jiffy ASC certified mechanic but once you get what does what with EFI it becomes clearer, this step will be done with the engine off, key off, back off the idle screw untill it's off the little arm, screw it in until it just touches the lever, about half/quarter turn in, this should open the butterfly enough to run, turn key on, check TPS, I believe .5 to 1. is acceptable, next check that the rotor points at or near to #1 plug wire when the balancer is at 0*-10* if you have not messed with the timing this is close enough, if you have moved (or removed) the distributor then you should check top dead center is relative to 0* on the balancer. This should get it started and run good enough to continue.
This is considering the plugs/wires/cap and rotor are good.
You also need to check ALL the vacuum lines, this stuff is old and crusty, you may need to pull the upper plenum to inspect all of them, several are underneath, check fuel pressure, you can borrow a FPG set at most O'Reilly Autozone parts stores.
Fiddling with too many adjustments and swapping parts is, in most cases, a waste of time and money. It also makes resolving issues more difficult.
If you need more info on what does what when and how to adjust things properly go to the 'surging idle checklist ' in the technical/how to threads.

Quarter and roof just clamped in place ,soon as i fix the trunk drop off it will get welded up

I erased code 63 and redid the test now it's backwards. It's showing 63 O and now 11 is in the continuous memory. KOER still the same with 98 and 63.

Still showing 5 volts to the orange and 1.00 to green on the TPS

Mustang5L5 said:

You can feed it in moderately. I think the ECU just looks for >50% on the TPS sensor to run the CBT.

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I'm probably doing something wrong but I can't get it to do a balance test. KOEO it's saying 11 for system ok then the 10 separation code and a 63 in the continuous memory for TP circuit fault, below minimum voltage. KOER test it will throw code 98 and 63.

Going to try and erase the 63 and try again.

Another concern i had was that it's rumored that winter temps cause summer tires to crack and degrade faster when you drive on them below 42 (or sometehing like that). I haven't driven my car in the winter in pretty much forever. I'm not opposed to it, but i am opposed to ruining tires.
When i was a kid i daily drove the car on nitto drag radials, wasn't pleasant though they did warm up, just those were the days where i had no worries, bad tires, good tires, bald tires, tires with belts showing, i just wasn't concerned, i was going to burn them off the car anyway.