Latest activity

Potomus Pete · 2024-04-15T13:22:00-0500

Post up....90 Notch is hot right now. They be lookin good

from6to8 · 2024-04-15T13:20:05-0500

Essn95 said:
108k I believe
Have about 6k miles on the build now

oh gotcha cool

Essn95 · 2024-04-15T13:17:02-0500

from6to8 said:
what mileage did you put your SC on?

108k I believe
Have about 6k miles on the build now

stogga99 · 2024-04-15T11:34:53-0500

87 stang MC has three ports. If the bottom Port goes directly to the left front caliper and the right caliper comes from the proportioning valve how are both calibers portioned?

General karthief · 2024-04-15T11:32:27-0500

Next step would be to post some pics
Welcome to :SN:

pindude80 · 2024-04-15T11:15:28-0500

limp said:
OK, I follow you now.... Not good......

Yeah it sucks but I got a full GT40 "parts" motor with 120k miles for $200 so I'm ok with that. I have another junkyard engine coming in the next day or two. It's out of a '99 Moutaineer and supposedly has 130k miles. Hopefully this one is in better shape. I plan on putting my F cam in it, changing the valve springs, oil pan gasket, rear main gasket and sticking it in the car.

ranger88 · 2024-04-15T11:00:45-0500

Hey! I'm new member to this community and I've 1990 Notch back Mustang. I'd like to get know y'all and be productive and valuable member to this community.

Bullitt347 · 2024-04-15T10:38:19-0500

Surely your State has a provision for a waiver.
I dealt with the same thing with my 08' Bullitt
I would just go get a waiver every two years. Cost me about $250 each time.
Was a lot easier than actually getting the car to pass.

67fox · 2024-04-15T10:22:51-0500

hey, I'm about to get my 67 on the road. I did a roller swap 5 years ago and put an 01 explorer 5.0 in it with the gt40 heads, and a trick flow "stage 1" cam. The base circle of the cam was smaller than the factory cam, so I was directed to put on the prw 351 full roller rocker arms on it, the ones that adjust at the pushrod. I was wondering if anyone has any experience adjusting these? I have little experience with motor building and I am hoping I had good guidance with my valvetrain setup.

Duck1968 · 2024-04-15T10:03:31-0500

Mustang5L5 said:
A 2003 GT should have a 4-pin 12V plug under the driver's seat as all GT's came with an 6-way power seat track and adjustable lumbar on the driver's side.

On the 4-pin plug are two large gauge wires, and 2 smaller wires. The 2 small ones are for the seat belt minder that connects to the driver's side seat belt buckle. The two larger wires are 12V for the power seat track.

You can use the 12V there to supply power to both driver's and passenger seat.

Thank you. I will look for those wires this weekend when I repalce the seats.

cfauvel · 2024-04-15T09:40:00-0500

@FastDriver thank you so much for your time.

I am no longer sure what year the T5 is ....on one receipt from the transmission shop that rebuilt it in 2012 wrote down 1990. On other receipts I wrote down 1990 on one and 1993 on another....ugh. I've reached out to the guy I bought it from in 2012 to see if he remembers.

Any other ways to know for sure? It's missing the tag plate :-(

I'll look for the casting date...but that is just a ballpark.....not definitive....

Duck1968 · 2024-04-15T08:11:51-0500

2003 Mustang Gt 150k miles. I have a pair of new front seats. Driver side is an electric seat. OG seats are not electric and are not wired to electric. Any tips or advice on how to wire/where to power seats? Is there any empty power slot in the fuse box? Where would I be able to tap power?
thanks

LimeyC · 2024-04-15T07:42:56-0500

I have a weird issue with trying to get my 06 GT to pass emission inspection. The car has a vortech supercharger with a tune from Brenspeed that is supposed to be CARB legal, but currently it will not clear Catalyst, Evap, O2 heater, and O2 sensor tests. I have a scanner that can read them and all four are remaining incomplete, even though I have driven through Ford's idiotic drive cycle multiple times at this point. But the strangest thing is that the P1000 code for emissions tests incomplete is also not showing. That code is supposed to show up any time you reset your DTCs or disconnect your battery, both of which I have done multiple times at this point to try to hard reset everything. For reference I have another 06 coupe that recently had a battery replaced, and as soon as I reconnected everything the P1000 code was there.

I'm really at a loss as to what is going on. Has anyone ever experienced a situation where the code simply wasn't there, and did it eventually clear the emission tests? Or is there something that could have screwed up in the computer where now it will never pass? There's no point to taking the car to Ford; it's highly modified and I already know they will either refuse to touch it, or tell me to put it back to stock, which I'm not going to do.

dqureshi06 · 2024-04-15T07:35:25-0500

So I wanted to take all possible measures to rust proof my 1989 mustang. I wanted to spray fluid film on the structural parts as much as I can do I'll spray around the struts etc in the engine bay. I just wanted to know if there were any hoses or wires that are NOT oil resistant. I obviously know not to spray on any exhaust parts.

from6to8 · 2024-04-15T07:14:15-0500

Essn95 said:
The 94-95 Cobras were a touch underrated from the factory, I probably picked up 200ish to the wheels. My trap speed went from 95mph to 115mph

what mileage did you put your SC on?

bird_dog0347 · 2024-04-15T07:11:54-0500

It's stuff like this that makes the Coyote swap seem more reasonably priced.

Cheapskate207 · 2024-04-15T05:44:42-0500

The pcv screen will help. The baffle is actually on the bottom of the lower intake and prevents oil from splashing up the pvc hole. Like I said earlier, running a normal pcv config may solve your issue. Then you potentially won’t need a catch can.

There’s a million ways to do this. The “correct” way is to run the pcv system as intended with a sealed catch can inline between the pcv valve and intake. Especially since you have a NA street car.

goofyfoot53 · 2024-04-15T01:24:54-0500

HELP!! I installed the TransGo shift kit to the letter, according to the instructions. While it solved the stalling when put in gear problem, now it's very soft and slow going into reverse when cold. Once warm, I can't feel it go into reverse at all, but apparently it does shift since it moves back when I apply throttle, but it slips a bit. Before I had the stalling problem, it shifted into reverse very firmly. A bit too firmly, in fact. I called TransGo tech support, but they had no answer. The tech guy suggested changing the TransGo spring on the reverse servo back to the original spring to see if that would help. Of course, that would require draining all the fluid and dropping the pan again, which I really don't want to do without knowing for sure that is the problem. In addition, the Mustang is my only working car right now because my other vehicle has developed a severe oil leak, to the tune of over a quart of oil when I take my wife to work, a 12-mile round trip. I believe it's the timing cover gasket, which is a lot of work to change. Any ideas?

Habu135 · 2024-04-14T23:55:24-0500

TOOLOW91 said:
You can run the back like a regular pcv and put the breathers in the valve covers .

Or put a freeze out plug in the pcv hole - get motion race works push in an fittings for your valve covers and run 2 -10 or -12 an lines to the catch can

So, I checked and there is no metal screen and housing in the existing PCV port. I'll need to install that.

The current baffle I have, see attached photo, isn't giving the crank case pressure anywhere to go due to the small holes. This is what I had in the rear engine PCV hole and which was allowing oil to spit out onto the transmission and exhaust.

Habu135 · 2024-04-14T23:51:19-0500

TOOLOW91 said:
Also , I’m not being a downer I’m seriously asking - that thing is down like close to 100 hp at the tire in my opinion .

We know the dyno is a tool and should be used as such but I’d expect a high compression 363 to make closer to 500 at the tire especially with a stick.

It is advertised at 507 crank HP by Ford. It's probably good for 420 RWHP with 3" exhaust. It's got a bit more in it as is with 91 octane here.

TOOLOW91 · 2024-04-14T23:46:00-0500

Habu135 said:
Ford Performance Z2363 engine and T-56 transmission are finally installed. Had the car tuned today. Made 375 hp and 357 torque and I suspect it has a bit more in it.

Overall the car hauls ass, BUT spews oil out the rear breather onto the trans and exhaust at high rpm. Not a sustainable predicament. So now I need to run some ventilation via a catch can. I was planning on running a line from the rear PVC behind the intake and from the top of one of the valve covers (two lines) to a catch can. Any suggestion on parts (90 degree elbow and catch can) from guys who have dealt with this situation?

Also , I’m not being a downer I’m seriously asking - that thing is down like close to 50-80hp at the tire in my opinion .

We know the dyno is a tool and should be used as such but I’d expect a higher compression 363 to make closer to 500 at the tire especially with a stick. I think 10.2:1 rather then a build with 11:1 is probably hurting it some and the cam shaft they send with it . I have seen quite a few 363 make right around 600 at the crank on pump

I just saw a j302 headed - stock bottom end with a 100k plus on it and an Anderson n91 cam with a carb style manifold with an elbow make over 400 on the dyno from one of the reps that works for vibrant.

I’m glad it feels great I am itching to build a 408 , 5 speed deal in a 4 eye

TOOLOW91 · 2024-04-14T23:44:15-0500

You can run the back like a regular pcv and put the breathers in the valve covers .

Or put a freeze out plug in the pcv hole - get motion race works push in an fittings for your valve covers and run 2 -10 or -12 an lines to the catch can

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Engine Prw rockers, trick flow cam, gt40 heads

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Paint and Body Any non oil resistant parts in engine bay?

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