Fox New Shoes for Black Jack!

Potential D/S length Solution:
Alright, so, here's the skinny: I have 3.6" to play with (ct alert here, @Noobz347). That is, from the tip of the yoke, the full length until it begins to widen is ~3.6". If I was effective in approximating having weight on the tires and I got the trans in the right place, then there's about 1.6" of yoke that will be exposed outside of the tailhousing and about ~2" of yoke-to-output shaft spline engagement. The recommendations out there from forums I've googled are that you want a minimum of .75" of yoke exposed beyond the output shaft housing to deal with suspension travel. Many folks on the drag race forums suggest 1". So, that's the tolerance I've decided on.

TMI: The rule-of-thumb for the amount of spline engagement required on very high hp cars is "1.5 times the diameter," but although that exact phrase is mentioned repeatedly, no one seems to finish their sentences. I believe what they mean is 1.5 times the diameter of the splines on the output shaft. If true, I measured the shaft at ~1.2" which would require 1.8" of spline engagement -- no issue. At worst case, though, the barrel diameter of the outer portion of the yoke is 1.5", which would require 2.25" of spline engagement, which I fall short of.

While looking around I found that Steeda produces an 11/16 (0.6875") pinion flange spacer. That should bring the exposed yoke length down to just under 1", and the spline engagement to just over 2.6" which I feel is about perfect.

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Progress Thread The "grátis" 1966 Coupe - rotisserie action

Been a little while.

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I have been having trouble with the air compressor that made me think the motor or pump was going bad. Turns out it just needed a new belt as the original had become a bit stretched. One new belt later and it starts and runs like new. With my seemingly renewed air compressor running like a top, I decided to do a bit of work. I nearly got the final bit of rust repaired on the passenger quarter.

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Some of the wheel house was also swiss-cheesed.

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This is where I called it a night. I'll finish this up next weekend, probably. Nice to get some work done.

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This is the patch that will go in. Sectioned out of a CJ Pony Parts quarter skin.

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1991 Ford Mustang LX - Sputtering

Go through this checklist step by step:
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Mustang 2 clutch pedal conversion to hydraulic clutch?

Hey! I do have slave cylinder at the bell but no fork. Mine is mounted on the transmission. I'd have to go check my book to see where I got the parts. If you're interested my install was not cheap. But, it's very nice and reliable. I went away from the fork due to the non stock clutch (spec). Let me know and I'll shovel out the garage to find out the parts and numbers.
I did not get them from MDL but they may have something for it now.

For Sale M-12071-C302 5.0 Main Harness, M-12071-D302 Sensor and Relay Kit, M-12071-F302 Manual Trans Computer Kit and M-12071-H302 Harness and Controls Kit

M-12071-C302 5.0 Main Harness, M-12071-D302 Sensor and Relay Kit, M-12071-F302 Manual Trans Computer Kit and M-12071-H302 Harness and Controls Kit - New in Box
Renton, WA
$1000

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Engine Need help with cold start

@AeroCoupe: I don't know as you would necessarily call it a street truck. The purpose is to be my everyday driver. It has a way to go on bodywork but it has all the modern comforts you can get in one and still look nearly stock. A/C, cruise, push to start PKE system with remote start, 5 speed manual, automatic headlights, etc. A full blown restomod. It has 4 wheel power disc brakes. Lowered 5 in the rear 4 in the front. I would like to do a crown Vic swap, but I haven't had the resources, so it is drop beams and hangers, dual front shocks, and front and rear sway bars. It does handle the road really well for what it is. Hardly any body roll at all. The fuel injection conversion, and wiring was all done last year. I'm still trying to get it all fine tuned in.

@General karthief: I knew you were teasing. As stated above it has a 5 speed manual from 94 half ton Ford. I'm still running the original 9inch. I'm not sure on the exact ratio, but I feel like I could use a little taller gearing. I'm running 275/50 r15 to get the stance I want, but I'm turning around 2500 at 65. I think it would help if I could the rpm down just a little more, but that is something to look at once I get the motor running the way it needs to be.
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INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader Manual

These are the only codes that will display a CEL at the time the condition is present.

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If the code clears, it will remain in CM (continuous memory) but will not display a check engine light.

All other codes will NEVER display a CEL. Codes like faulty VSS sensor, or trans not being in neutral and such.

Doing head gaskets

get the intake gaskets with the steel insterts- either 1262s or 1250s depending on the heads. Throw away the china wall gaskets and lay a nice bead of Right Stuff. Put assembly lube on the washers and bolts The ones that go into the water jacket get pipe dope/thread sealant. Make sure to clean the deck surface and the heads. Do not use a scotchbrite pad. use some razors and brake clean and shop towels . Check the deck and heads for straigtness with a large straight edge and a afeeler guage. if memory serves me right you want under 3 thousands clearance or mill the heads .

that being said- you sure it wasnt just an intake gasket slipping or failed

P1131 Code and Rattle Under Throttle

Update: A few hours after the code showed up my car began to surge at idle. And it climbs up to 3000 rpm and hangs then goes down for a few seconds and repeats.
Hey, did you figure it out? I’m having the same exact issues and also got the P1131 code. Thinking im just going to change the o2 sensor, but did that solve your problem?

Electrical Bizarre issue

a short in the wiring would blow a fuse or melt a wire.
Shorts don’t give intermittent problems like this

The fuel pump is on its own relay.
The EEC is also on it’s own relay.
The EEC monitors the fuel pump circuit and controls it. If that were a problem, it would store a code, & still demand spark.
It does not monitor the fuel level or gauge.

Just don’t fill up anymore if you truly believe the issue to be related, but I’m afraid it will still happen as you drive and then you can chock it up to coincidence, and solve the real issue (ignition).
What an awesome community!

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