ThinBlue502 said:

View attachment 719390

Total eclipse of the heart lol

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Cool under glow!

Wow the price doubled!

85GTStangGuy said:

What did he have to say about the gauges?

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He’s liked everything I’ve done to the car but he noped hard on the styling bar.

I see his point. He’s cruised with me a bunch in that thing. Why I like it.

Should be shipping now

AeroCoupe said:

That answer is they are not. Only the rear brakes are reduced in pressure. The line going into the combination valve is used by the valve if the front brake pressure is lower than the rear brake pressure. The shuttle valve will then move and put full brake pressure to the rear brakes. This was in case of a leak or issue with the front brake pressure. There are baffles in the MC reservoir that will keep fluid on rear brakes if the fronts develop a leak.

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I can't tell you how much I appreciate your explanation. TY

I am thinking that with an 8.8:1 motor boost is in its future? I run 42's on my N/A 331 and on the stock fuel system we had to turn it up to 50 psi to get enough fuel on the dyno.

So to me it appears you set the lash just like an adjustable roller rocker only you are using the valve lash adjuster on the push rod rather than the stud mount nut on an adjustable roller rocker. Their installation instructions are here but lack the detail on when you adjust each rocker.


I have Scorpion rockers and used this procedure:


I think if you just take the part out of the Scorpion instructions on where the rocker needs to be when adjusting the intake and exhaust valves you should be good.

You could try the giggl'n wires method, sometimes it's just loose crap, engine running of course.
need to check:
codes
Fuel pressure - vac line on and off
vacuum reading

NateDogg1269 said:

Hi, I have an early 2005 Roush sport..
Vin - 1ZFT82H655148096
Serial #- 05-0432
I have the black cut-outs in the rear bumper.

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Pics!

Welllll, looky what showed up on my front porch today...
My fuel and vent line for an 85 mustang GT....
These things really are works of art.. Lets hope they fit..
PIctures of bent for shipping and unbent on my driveway...

I'm going to install the screen and mount a catchcan on the firewall with a line running from the passenger valve cover pcv and rear engine breather/baffle locations. I'll eliminate both those items and replace them with a 90 degree fitting.

Looks good.....No , looks great.

Hey dan How did it go? I did the same, but not with a runout alignment. I removed the pressureplate and clutch and still had vibration. At this point i have nothing else to rule out and i just want to buy a new transmission cause i dont know what else to do. Please give some feedback on what you experience

Speedo gears are usually changed. Any pre-90 T5 i've done gets the newer gear. Short if pulling the top cover off and reading the cluster gear number, hard to tell

Essn95 said:

108k I believe
Have about 6k miles on the build now

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oh gotcha cool

Confirmed. Speedometer and odometer are spot on. Everything works as intended, just the mileage is off.

Ill probably go back to method 1 to keep my odometer record intact and just live with the speedometer being off by a factor of 1.06

limp said:

OK, I follow you now.... Not good......

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Yeah it sucks but I got a full GT40 "parts" motor with 120k miles for $200 so I'm ok with that. I have another junkyard engine coming in the next day or two. It's out of a '99 Moutaineer and supposedly has 130k miles. Hopefully this one is in better shape. I plan on putting my F cam in it, changing the valve springs, oil pan gasket, rear main gasket and sticking it in the car.

Surely your State has a provision for a waiver.
I dealt with the same thing with my 08' Bullitt
I would just go get a waiver every two years. Cost me about $250 each time.
Was a lot easier than actually getting the car to pass.

Mustang5L5 said:

A 2003 GT should have a 4-pin 12V plug under the driver's seat as all GT's came with an 6-way power seat track and adjustable lumbar on the driver's side.

On the 4-pin plug are two large gauge wires, and 2 smaller wires. The 2 small ones are for the seat belt minder that connects to the driver's side seat belt buckle. The two larger wires are 12V for the power seat track.

You can use the 12V there to supply power to both driver's and passenger seat.

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Thank you. I will look for those wires this weekend when I repalce the seats.

Ended up finding a used Edelbrock Lower and swapped the baffle over. If you need a baffle-less edelbrock lower for a Performer 5.0 or Performer RPM EFI intake, hit me up.

So I wanted to take all possible measures to rust proof my 1989 mustang. I wanted to spray fluid film on the structural parts as much as I can do I'll spray around the struts etc in the engine bay. I just wanted to know if there were any hoses or wires that are NOT oil resistant. I obviously know not to spray on any exhaust parts.

HELP!! I installed the TransGo shift kit to the letter, according to the instructions. While it solved the stalling when put in gear problem, now it's very soft and slow going into reverse when cold. Once warm, I can't feel it go into reverse at all, but apparently it does shift since it moves back when I apply throttle, but it slips a bit. Before I had the stalling problem, it shifted into reverse very firmly. A bit too firmly, in fact. I called TransGo tech support, but they had no answer. The tech guy suggested changing the TransGo spring on the reverse servo back to the original spring to see if that would help. Of course, that would require draining all the fluid and dropping the pan again, which I really don't want to do without knowing for sure that is the problem. In addition, the Mustang is my only working car right now because my other vehicle has developed a severe oil leak, to the tune of over a quart of oil when I take my wife to work, a 12-mile round trip. I believe it's the timing cover gasket, which is a lot of work to change. Any ideas?

deserthoundLX said:

gulator Solenoid, and t

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General karthief said:

Here is a 'systems check list' that should get you straightened out:

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 05 July 2022 to add rough idle when cold and smooth idle when up to normal operating temperature. See the EGR tech information, section #15 for more help. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank...

www.stangnet.com

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Thank you, ive been going through that and its definetely been helpful. I shouldve added that as well as i also recently replaced the o2 sensors to get rid of codes 41 and 91. im still not really grasping why the car would idle better with the fpr receiving no vacuum while the egr does when it should be the opposite. Thank you for your help i will keep digging into the checklist

I know this is an old post. I am an older women who figures maybe I'll tell you if you top gets stuck how to move it. I put in a used top with the frame myself. Except I needed help lifting lol. OK if you remove the pistons the top will move. I did this because I had a newer set. I moved the the top like nothing. So those pistons or cylinders keep the pressure and its the brick wall that can't move. Lol

Welcome