Turn Signal Housing Brackets

Update - so I did more digging and found out that the connector for the driver side turn signal housing has been cut for both connectors, however I did remember he had put the junkyard housing in the trunk and it had 2 connectors... but.. the wires do not match up, the ones that are cut on the car have 5 wires, the plugs on the junkyard part also have 5 wires but the colors do not match.. what is also weird is that the connector on the passenger side turn signal housing wires match the same colored wires as the harness, the junkyard light I got the plug from was the passenger side, shouldn’t the passenger side be the same as the driver side? Or are they colored differently to determine what side is which?

Aftermarket Speakers

The best quality and easiest way to go, as well as most expensive, is to throw all the factory junk in the garbage can. From there, you run an aftermarket head unit to an amp or amps, run components in the front, delete the rears, and throw a sub somewhere, most likely the trunk.

The sound quality in a Mustang is going to suck regardless though. Between the road noise, creaks, and rattles, you can't get excellent sound. I'm bypassing my Mach 460 stuff and just running four mid-tier speakers off an aftermarket head unit. It's so noisy headed down the road that it doesn't matter. The flip side of that is my pickup. It is very quiet so I didn't feel bad about stuffing $3-4k worth of audio in it. I don't think it's worth it with a Mustang.

Another Explorer Intake Question

Your answer may be in here...

Explorer intake swap; you may not have an Explorer intake, but most of the steps are the same. Skip down to All other types of intake manifolds and you find lots of helpful information on what to do to make the job a success.

Explorer specific items
I got mine off a 96 Mountaineer with the 19# injectors and 65 MM throttle body for $250.

The ACT (Air Charge Temp) sensor will probably need to be moved. The GT 40 lower manifold isn't drilled & tapped for it to go into the intake like the stock manifold was. There is a boss cast into the GT 40, but a machine shop will have to drill & tap the new manifold. The best spot for the ACT is the air box if you don't do the drill and tap thing. You get to cut and splice the 2 ACT wires in order to make them long enough to reach the air box. Solder the wire extensions on the existing wires & use heat shrink tubing to cover the splices. Offset the place where you cut the wires so that you don't have a big bulge when you put heat shrink over the 2 wires to cover & protect them. The air box gets a hole (5/8" or so) for the ACT drilled about 1 1/4" down & 1/1/4" in on the front top side near the upper radiator hose. A brass fitting nut from Home Depot or Ace Hardware secures the ACT into the air box.

If you are very clever, you will find that the ACT connector comes apart so that you can remove the pins. A very small screwdriver releases the lock in the front of the center insert, while another small screwdriver inserted in the back pushes it out. Once the center insert is out of the connector shell, the pins come out easily. New pins are available from AutoZone in a $5 electrical pin kit for Fords. Crimping the pins on the extender wires saves you from having to splice them twice: once to put the connector on and once to extend the wires.

6 ft black 18 gauge wire
6 ft green 18 gauge wire
6 ft 1/4" heat shrink tubing
1 ft 3/16" heat shrink tubing

Measure the 2 extender wires & cut them to length, crimp one set of pins on them. Then mate up the extender pins with the wiring harness & slide the 3/16" heat shrink tubing over them & shrink the tubing. Then slide the 1/4" heat shrink tubing over the pair of wires and shrink the tubing. When you are done you'll have about 1" of wire left without heat shrink tubing on it to strip & crimp the new pins on. Stick the new pins in the old connector shell, assemble it and you are done. It looks as good as factory. Some wire loom can be used to enhance the "Factory Look".

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Use the TPS and IAB from your old throttle body. All the EGR passages were there and fit OK. Use you old fuel rails and regulator. You will probably need a new EGR spacer adapter and gaskets. Without the EGR spacer, there is no place to mount the throttle linkage support bracket.

I used the stock water lines on the Explorer manifold and they connected up to the EGR without any problems. I made a “U” out of ½” copper pipe and sweat soldered it together. Then I used it and some hose with clamps to bypass the leaky heater.

The vacuum lines you need are 1 small line for fuel pressure regulator, 1 small line for A/C,1 small line for EGR and another small line for the smog pump. One big line at the back goes to the vacuum tree for the power brake & A/C, one big line goes to the PVC valve. The other big line goes out the front for the carbon canister. In a pinch, one of the small lines can connect to the spare port on the vacuum tree. Cap or plug the remaining lines since they aren't needed.

The stock Explorer linkage didn't come anywhere near fitting, so I made an adapter plate for the throttle linkage so I could use the 65 MM throttle body.

This is what I did:
Make a drawing of the position of the old throttle body linkage arm and its angular position relative to the centerline of the throttle body. Remove the ball stud off the explorer TB to make way for the adapter plate. Drill and tap a 10-32 hole in the linkage parallel to the TB shaft. Make an angle bracket out of 1" angle iron 3/8", drill a 3/16” hole in the center of each one of the legs. Then bolt it on where the hole was drilled & tapped. Then make a circular adapter plate out of 1/4" thick aluminum to bolt the two linkage arms together. Then bolt the aluminum plate to the existing linkage, and the angle bracket. Next mount the arm with the ball stud off the old throttle body on the adapter plate using the drawing to get the angle correct. You will need an aircraft type countersink for one of the bolts that secures the plate to the explorer linkage arm. It ends up being under the arm with the ball stud for the linkage. It works great and looks neat.

The Explorer TB could have been real simple if I had a gas welding torch or taken the TB to a welding shop. Just grind the mushroomed part of the TB shafts so that you can pry the linkage arms off. Then swap the stock arm onto the Explorer TB and braze it onto the shaft. It Takes about 3 minutes or less worth of work with the torch, so it shouldn't cost much.

I didn't have access to a welder, so I fabricated the plate in my shop. I took about 1.5 hours to do it, it was a measure, cut, and fit type of operation.

Also see http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ConvertingExplorer65mmTB.pdf for modifications to adapt the 65 MM Explorer TB to a Mustang


All other types of intake manifolds
Vacuum line connections:
One large vacuum line from the upper front goes to the carbon canister

One large vacuum line from the rear goes to the vacuum tree.

One small line in the front feeds the Smog pump solenoid control valves on the rear of the passenger side wheel well..

One small line in the rear goes to the fuel pressure regulator.

One small line in the rear goes to the EGR suction regulator.

One large line in the rear goes to the PVC valve.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds - Typical Vacuum Routing for a Fox stang 5.0:
mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds - Intake manifold bolt tightening sequence for a 5.0 Fox stang:
FordIntakeTorqueSequence.gif


Intake manifold to head bolts
--Step 1 96 in/lbs
--Step 2 16ft/lbs
--Step 3 23-25 ft/lbs

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Here's some tips...

Tools: a good torque wrench is a must have item. A razor blade scraper that holds a single edge razor blade from Home Depot or Ace hardware is another handy thing. Get a Chilton or Haynes shop manual - you'll need it for the bolt torques and patterns. The intake manifold has an especially odd pattern. You'll need access to a timing light to set the timing after you re-stab the distributor. Look in the A/C repair section for the fuel line tools. They look like little plastic top hats. You will need the 1/2" & 5/8" ones. The hat shaped section goes on facing the large part of the coupling. Then you press hard on the brim until it forces the sleeve into the coupling and releases the spring. You may need someone to pull on the line while you press on the coupling. Put some motor oil on them when you put the line back together.

The A/C Compressor comes off with lines still connected. Mark all the electrical, smog and vacuum lines with tags to help you remember where to re-connect them. If you have a digital camera, take several pictures.

Whatever you do, don't skimp on cleaning the gasket surfaces. New gaskets need to seat against bare metal and not the residue left from the old gaskets in order to seal leak free. This is the most time consuming and tiresome part of the job. Put some cardboard in the lifter valley to help catch the gasket scrapings. Have a shop vacuum handy to suck up the scrapings and any coolant that leaked into the lifter valley.
Look for little things that need to be replaced like the short hose from the thermostat hosing to the water pump, damaged vacuum lines and hose clamps that are rusted or broken.

Plan on cutting the thermostat to water pump hose, or removing the thermostat housing. Also plan on removing the distributor to get clearance to remove the intake manifold. Remove #1 spark plug, stick your finger in the spark plug hole and crank. When your finger gets air moving past it, stop cranking. Turn the engine until the timing marks line up with the pointer. Now you can pull the distributor out. Be sure to put a rag or cap in the block where you removed the distributor. It will save you trouble if something falls into the empty distributor hole.


My favorite trick that saves time and effort is the stay in place gasket. Be sure that you scrape (don't use a wire brush) all the old gasket material off, then clean all the surfaces with acetone or MEK.

When the surfaces are clean, use weather strip adhesive on the head to manifold surface. Also use the weather strip adhesive on the side of the gasket that mates to the head. When you are done, the head surface and the gasket surface that mate together will have weather strip adhesive on them. Follow the instructions on the tube or can and when it gets tacky, press the gasket down on the head.

Clean the area where the rubber rails mount to the block in front and in the rear with more acetone or MEK and do the same trick with the weather strip adhesive that you did to the heads.

Coat the rubber seals and the gasket area around the water passages with lots of Blue Silicone gasket sealer and put it together. TADA! no leaks, and no gaskets that shifted out of place.

Fuel injector seal kits with 2 O rings and a pintle cap (Borg-Warner P/N 274081) are available at Pep Boys auto parts. Cost is about $3-$4 per kit. The following are listed at the Borg-Warner site ( http://www.borg-warner.com ) as being resellers of Borg-Warner parts:

http://www.partsplus.com/ or http://www.autovalue.com/ or http://www.pepboys.com/ or http://www.federatedautoparts.com/

Most of the links above have store locators for find a store in your area.

Use motor oil on the O rings when you re-assemble them & everything will slide into place. The gasoline will wash away any excess oil that gets in the wrong places and it will burn up in the combustion chamber. Heat the pintle caps in boiling water to soften them to make them easier to install.

Plan on doing an oil change within 2 hours of run time on the engine. This will get the debris and coolant out of the oil pan.

Consumable items:
Upper manifold gasket
Fel Pro 1250 or equal lower manifold gasket set.
Short formed hose between thermostat hosing and intake manifold
6 ft 7/64" or 1/8" vacuum hose
2 ft 1/2" heater hose
1 1/2 ft 5/8" heater hose
Blue Silicone sealer
ARP antiseize or equal for the bolts
4 each 3/4" hose clamps (spare item in case the old ones are bad)
4 each 1/2" hose clamps (spare item)

What can happen if you don’t use the stay in place gasket…

Ask Nicoleb3x3 about the intake gasket that slipped out of place and caused idle and vacuum leak problems that could not be seen or found by external examination. Spay everything with anything you have, and you won't find the leak...
photodisplay.php


Want to wear yourself out with info on the Explorer intake manifolds? See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...d-gt-40-intake-thread-56k-dont-bother.551505/

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68 Mustang 429 Hood Clearance

I bet it is fun! My brother built a 429 years ago and has been in storage on a stand since. I want to look for a 67 or 68 coupe to restomod and drop it in there.
It's not that hard to do very tight fit I just ordered the rod and customs suspension kit for mine hopefully that will allow me to lower the motor a couple inches then I won't have to have a hood scoop anymore

Progress Thread 2006 Ford Mustang Harmonic Balancer Thread Size

Umm...you are not using a 3 prong puller ? You are talking about the crankshaft pulley yes? You should not have to us any bolts except the factory one on a three prong and us that

As to torque specs, the crankshaft pulley should be torqued to 66 ft lbs, then loosen 1 full turn, then torque to 37 ft lbs and then tighten 90 degrees (1/4 turn)

Gt40p

It'll be tame, built around the heads. I have roller rockers. My buddy uses 90° plug wires...no problem. I was just curious if the price was decent because I've never had any heads done before. Thank you FoxMustang for reading the post. I'm going to call the guy and see what we can work out.
Sounds like you have a decent plan and have done some research. I've read that many companies stopped making P specific headers and that many have had success with running 90* boots on 2 of the spark plugs. Also, cutting down a spark plug socket works for easier access on those two spark plugs too. What cam are you going to run?

What Is This Line For?

How does this eliminate his fuel smell? FWIW, I have my line dumped the same exact way as the OP and I have zero smell regardless of temperature. I wonder why it's different for some than others.

It doesn't. It just mimics how cars from the 60s used to run it before the EPA mandated all hydrocarbons must be emitted from the tailpipe only, so they plumbed it into the engine.

as to why his smells and yours doesn't? Maybe his purge vskve on the tank is stuck open? Maybe his fuel pump is too big and circulating the fuel to the engine and heating it up causing expansion? Perhaps the fuel smell is unrelated?

But basically the OP has three options.

Reroute the line to where it can vent better.

Cap like and vented gas tank

Reinstall canister and set it up like factory

I know what I would do but the decision is his to make.

Warm Start Issue

I would like to know what the PCM "thinks" the values are for:
  • Input air temperature (IAT)
  • Engine coolant temperature (ECT)
  • Fuel rail pressure sensor (FRPS)
  • Mass air flow (MAF)
Here's some information on an affordable Windows based ODB2 scanner.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/resources/forscan-odb2-scanner-w-elm327-usb.57/

Do you want these values on a cold start and then a warm start?

Hood Risers Worth $119? You Bet They Are

So after years of the PITA prop rod, I decided to go with Hood list risers. I had read some pro's and cons on some brands but I decided not to save $30 and go with a better brand/style. Bought the Redline Quicklift ELITE kit from American Muscle and could not be more pleased.

Literally 5 minutes to install (2 of those to open the package...lol). They are very well crafted, align perfectly and hey don't just hold up the hood. They RAISE the hood. I have attached a youtube video to demonstrate. Maybe they are not important to you but to do any work or just because they are cool...these are the ones to get

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Loud Squeak From Right Front End

^^ You can grease the upper control arm bushing if you can get a grease gun fitting on them and they have fittings installed. A previous owner of my 67 very cut access whole in the shock towers to get access to the grease fittings. I will be fixing this in the future and put on some 90 degree fittings when I get around to rebuilding the front end.

The Blue Mustang Is Back

Oh and lastly I was quoted $2,500 to fix my car so I’m jumping on that. At my work we have a body shop we contact through for our body work, well one of the managers owns his own body shop and he’ll put in a new quarter panel, install the door I got from prestige mustangs, and paint the car. So early next year I’ll be posting it’s completion and I’ll get to enjoy my baby again.
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Crashed The Gt500

Not a bad wreck, I barely hit the wall thankfully. The guy that hit me looked like he was gonna pull over but ran. My dash cam never saw his vehicle but it was clear he hit me and my deductible was waved after my insurance saw the video. Total cost was $6,800, they replaced stuff that wasn’t even damaged but not my concern since it wasn’t me paying for it.

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Differential

Do not use LKQ!! They still owe me $830. They have no idea what the difference is between a v6 rear end and a v8 rear end. They sent me the wrong one each time, first quote was around $500 and after 5 wrong rear ends the price went up to $830, and the the rear end that finally fit was bent and the tubes were leaking. I can send you the number of the place that sold me my 3.55 rear end fully loaded with control arms, shocks, and brakes with calipers. The main guy is very knowledgeable about all things mustang related, just give them a call and browse their site. I’m just a happy customer and nothing more. Don’t bother looking for a rear and in Cali, I’m from Cali and already went through the bs from our local wrecking yards. Anyways here is their website http://prestigemustang.com/
Anything you see you can ask for prices on, just call and tell them what you have and they will hook you up. If you need more info just post and I’ll reply. Trust me on this place, I can’t thank them enough for coming through for me.
What an awesome community!

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