Driver window goes all the way up than bounces back 2/3 open, open the door and roll up stays up until you shut the door than back down, I can roll up and stop it about 1/8 inch while door open than close the door and it stays in that position, Driving me nuts HELP

After everything you’ve been through, I think you can tighten the connector. You got this!!!

Some shots from poker run this weekend. Always a great time

Thank you. Oxford white on mine.

A couple beauty shots, although the car has not yet seen a detailer, so don't zoom in too closely.

Yikes on the balancer ring shift. I've always heard about that, but have not experienced it. Makes me want to check mine. Haven't done so in a very long time.

Good stuff on the T5. Glad you were able to work out the gear stuff.

You do not need 100% coverage with the sound deadener. That's a huge misconception. The material adds mass to the panel and changes it's resonance so you don't need that much to do so. However, everyone, including myself, go for 100% coverage.

I went around the wires. I trimmed the sound deadener to just go up to the wires and then cut a piece to go on the opposite side. I also used some Noico 150mil foam around the trans tunnel to cut down on heat. I put as much of the OE sound insulator back as I could, and I'm running an OEM carpet.

Right, I would start with a dwell meter to set your points with
Check the breaker plate for being loose which makes the points bounce all over the place
Take a gas sample and make sure it is volatile. Make sure / be confident it will singe your face if you try to light a BBQ grille with the stuff

limp said:

Driving is a privilege, NOT a right.... Good thing I am not the king.....Be a whole lotta people with bus passes....

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You gotta catch me first, Copper!

How to fix it:

Nightstang00 said:

Very upsetting to say... I just had the black bushing in wrong, which pressed the rod from the booster in to much. Sorry for the delay and I appreciate all the responses. All good now !!

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I just ran into this problem today! I had issues reassembling and tossed the black bushing. I might have to go digging in the garbage lol. After the install the lights stayed on so I'm hoping it's only a simple tweak and it's good to go

02 281 GT said:

Fancy scan tool.

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Xtool D7. Got it on sale for about $300. I love it.


The car runs great but it had a little hiccup at idle. Come to find out, it’s registering misfires, but not enough to trip the codes. If idle for 5-10 mins, the live data will show 10-20 misfires, but unfortunately the obd2 setup is too early to tell me what cylinder.

Mass air flow was reading high. Pulled sensor out and it was grimey. Cleaned that up and flow is better and car runs better. Looks like I overlooked that maintanance.

Front o2s read lean, but rear o2s read near stoich. I graphed them and they look lazy and would sometimes stick down near zero. I hraphed my DD and the sensors are much quicker in response. Fuel trims lean rich.

So I ordered one o2 sensor. I’ll install it and compare the two and see if that was the culprit.

Haven’t smoke tested yet.

These are shipping again but I would [still] call them first:




This is torque [Right Fookin' Meow].

Ask me how I know...

I had looked at Mustangs and SVT's in the entire Western US. Drove a 1995 SVT Hard top convertible with the 5.0L in Burbank. Brought back sooooo many good memories, and the daughter was with me and that was the car she'd potentially learn to drive a stick in. This was 2019.... I didn't pop the $10k the guy wanted - and he owned several service / repair stations in the area.

He had a sweet 50's Chrysler in his decked out w/ lift garage.

I ended getting an '03 SVT with 119k on the clock from Dallas and had it shipped out (no drive - just trusting my fellas in Texas)!

65 fastback, fold down seat bumpers, where do they mount

no 4 eye version?

for that price why not get an alarm that has this and more features?

Do you still have these ?

MillenniumPony said:

Hello guys I am selling a pair of 99-04 Mustang Cobra/Mach 1/Bullitt IUP Headrest. Dark Charcoal Black Leather. 150 obo. I am located in Deep South Texas. I am willing to ship. They are in great condition.

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I did a mock up using some 5/8” all thread. I bent the all thread at angle. Inserted the straight end through the cross member and mounted my rack to the angled end. This gave me plenty of clearance for the steering shaft. It obviously put the joint of the steering shaft at a sharper angle, but doesn’t seem so bad that it’s not workable. The steering wheel turns smoothly with no binding that I can feel. So now I currently have headers bolted in and a functioning steering.

I had to cut a pretty good section of the passenger frame rail out. So now the engine needs to come back out and weld up and reinforce that section of frame rail. Once that is done, I’ll finally be to the point of starting this thing.

I'm studying this stuff now while preparing to install my Mk Viii fan. I ordered the leash dual 70 amp relay module (p/n 91003049). My plan is to hookup a 3-way switch for On/Off/DCC controlled. In between autocross or drag strip runs, I want to be able to cool things off. I think 70 amp motor relays with a 40 amp fuses is the way to go. Apparently, the Mk8 fans spike to 100 amps or so on intial startup. The DCC will tame this on it's circuit. I am worried about the 40 amp fuse being enough for the 'on' switch circuit. I will connect that circuit to the 'Low' input wire to the fan. However, my understanding is that sometimes that's just all the same circuit. Something about an inspection cover on the fan that I don't see.

That leads me to a question: If the DCC is sending power & the "on" switch is also sending power, will that cause a problem for the fan? If so, I'll figure a way to prevent that. I would guess that since they'd both be 12V power supplies, the fan wouldn't care and would run at whichever provides the higher current.

Edit: looks like I'll only need 1 relay for the manual switch. Pin 13 on my DCC controller (FK95) takes an ignition switch signal.

This is really disappointing. I had their pump on my future parts-to-order list, mainly because there aren't too many water pump options for SN95s. Now I'm second guessing that potential purchase.

This is the kind of stuff that really ticks me off about aftermarket parts. I've never heard of this happening on a factory pump.

Does Edelbrock still make a Fox Body water pump? I used to run their pumps on my 460s back in '90s and they were really good quality at that time.

Did you have the right tool to put the seals on or did you use the punch method? When I replaced my rack years ago, I just bought the brass flare tools for both line sizes in case I ever have to do it again - they weren't that expensive from NAPA - but I can see that in your situation these probably aren't readily available. Even with those tools, I soaked the seals in hot water for an hour before stretching them over the threads, and gave them a day to shrink back down all of the way before I tightened the fittings. No leaks. The tools aren't necessary if you're really careful pushing the seal over threads and you get them well expanded on a punch first. From what I recall, I trashed a set of seals on my first attempt because they weren't hot / stretchy enough when I slid them over the threads without the expander tool. This isn't a hard job, but it is a huge pain until you've done it once and come up with a good process. I hope all is well!

My 99 Cobra just did a forged motor swap and upgraded my V1 to a D1SC. With that I went from 39lb injectors to 80lbs and obviously the car needs to be re-tuned with the extra fuel dumping. Idles great but AFR is at 10 and really rich. Do I ship it to the tuner and let them bleed out the coolant so I don't risk piston wash? Or can idle her here and atleast bleed the system before I ship. Dumb question but been a lengthy build and don't wanna mess anyhting up.