Fuel Spits sputter pops and bangs under load. Help wanted

With the vacuum line connected and at idle the pressure should drop to around 30 psig. When you rev the motor the pressure should increase as the rpms go up and load is put on the motor i.e. loss of vacuum. Are you sure you have a good source of vacuum? Almost sounds like there is horrible blow by and the vacuum system is pressurized when it revs up. Does the fuel tank have adequate ventilation?

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1985 Convertible GT 5.0 EFI H.O. Garaged for 20 years

Oh man, its a CFI car. Not the end of the world but I hated that system on my T-Bird. My quick response it to swap it over to a carb and be done with it but you are in California. I am sure some of the guys will be on this shortly that can offer a lot more help as I just gave up and swapped mine but I am in Oklahoma so we don't have Cali's politics.

You may also try this forum as they are dedicated to the 79-86 cars and there may be a few more guys on there with knowledge on the CFI stuff.


Good luck as that is one nice four eye!

Stalls, Have to Sit with Battery Disconnected, Then Starts/Runs Fine

I personally would pull the ECU out and take the cover off if it and look at the capacitors. They have also caused problems with the function of the fuel pump.

I mean that ECU if original isn't far from 40 years old!

If you want it checked out and fixed it needed contact ECU Exchange.

I think I have Piston Slap in my 2015 Mustang GT

So, recently on cold starts my engine makes a loud noise that I could only guess is piston slap. Correct me if I am wrong, but it is a constant almost slapping or knocking sound for the first 20 seconds and then goes away until I let my car sit for 4 or 5 hours and start it again. I have attached a short video of the sound. Now in this case my engine had only sat for 3 or 4 hours so the sound does not last long at all. However it usually lasts around 20 seconds. What is the sound and is it harmful to my engine? I am running a full synthetic oil approved for this engine, not the motocraft synthetic blend suggested in the manual. No other mods have been done. It has 75000kms on it and is my daily driver. Please help!

VIDEO: Login to view embedded media View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YogvV3uQDao&feature=youtu.be
I have had a passion for Mustang most of my life. I’ve had 3 fox bodies and now since February, I own a 2018 S550. I absolutely love it. After around 1200 miles I started noticing an unusual “ticking” noise only associated with cold starts. After she warmed up, it went away. As time went on, that same noise became more and more profound. It was inconsistent and louder. It also never went away. 15,000 mls later, she’s on a course of getting a new short block put in. They not only found metal in the pan, but scoring on the #3 cylinder wall.

Electrical Ecc overiding base timing?

You should be setting the base timing with the IAC plugged in, SPOUT removed, and the engine fully warmed up to operating temperature. Ensure that you are targeting 10° BTDC and not 10° ATDC, as both are marked on the balancer.

Disconnecting the IAC valve is for returning the throttle stop back to its factory orientation and done in the base idle reset. (Note: RESET, back to factory spec, this procedure is NOT used for setting idle rpm, that is done in the tune as the idle is electronically controlled)

And yes, the EEC adds timing with the SPOUT plugged in, timing adjustments are the main way that the EEC controls your idle.

High idle speed is usually one of two things: a vacuum leak or someone has been monkeying with the throttle stop.
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vacuum line diagram

You won't regret getting this....


(Note: didn't see a hardcopy one, just this pdf version)
Thank you!
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2004 mustang gt cooling fan question.

well I figure this issue out today. the answer yes the fan comes on. ended up at the fuse box under the hood where the battery wire off the battery connects to that fuse box some body had overtigthen or something but they broke the fuse box where the stud comes out and bent the main power part of that fuse box. so the stud connects to a metal bar that connects 12v to one side of the fuses and it was bent to where three connections were actually not being made. well the first one is the power wire that goes to the ccrm. so thats why my fans weren't coming on.

Roush hood struts?

Anyone install the Roush hood struts on a 2005? Just installed them and there are no instructions other than a video with a black car and black brackets to makes it harder to see. But the fender brackets are stamped RHFNDR and LHFNDR. I installed them that way even though they didn't look right but I closed the hood and opened it and the fender brackets had pivoted since there is only 1 bolt in each and the lower strut end popped off. I swapped the LH for the RH so the RH was now on the drivers side. The angle the brackets are made look like they fit much better and the hood closes better. With them the way they are stamped the rear of the hood was bulged up slightly. Now the gap looks almost perfect. Wondering if I should swap the upper brackets too? Not sure if there would be interference and I'm good with it the way it is but wondered if anyone else had installed them and if they found the same thing?

Dan's First Car Build Thread

I also replaced the license plate lights with LEDs since one of the lights was burned out and plan to replace the lenses since they're falling apart. When looking under the car I found the car was equipped with a BBK X pipe, flowmaster mufflers and BBK Shorty Headers. It also came with Sway bars and other parts from this one kit I found on LMR.

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Bad ECT sensor causing this problem or what???

Wait Til the car is cold. Then just look at your outdoor temp. If it's 80 degrees, then look at the resistance values for 80 or as close to whatever temp you are at.

For the ect, you are measuring resistance. Unplug the plug and measure resistance on sensor across the two plugs.


Sensors are cheap. Rockauto has a number (including motor raft) for about $20

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Moto raft lol
What an awesome community!

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