Looking for Idea/advice on build

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So they definitely had it apart seeing lubriplate on the rod end and they thought that bore was good to go? Doesn’t really look like it was even honed, or is the picture not showing it? Either way it just goes to show how places have no issues screwing people.
 
Yeah... That's gross! I guess they didn't expect you to open it up? I would press the guy who sold it to you to cough up some cash back. PITA... or maybe I would just suck it up and move on, but either way, he misrepresented the item. I believe he'd lose in small claims, but is it worth the trouble? Probably not. Still, you have nothing to lose by going back to him with pictures and putting a little pressure there. At least you'd be giving him a chance to do the right thing, and you have nothing to lose at this point.
 
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The guy I got it from knows 0 about engines, when i picked this thing up it was still wrapped in plastic on an engine crate with the stickers on it from extreme offshore. He bought 2 longblocks from them but lost the boat in the last storm we had roll through Florida.
 
How do the camshaft journals look. Since you've got to send it I'd check them for the hairline cracks everyone talks about.

I've seen worse in " brand new " rebuilt engines. The quality if some places really sucks. Guess they feel like if it works it works.....if it doesn't...the customer will ship it back and they'll rebuild it. If the customer takes it apart the warranty is void anyways.

If that block doesn't have cracks in the valley then you have gotten your monies worth for sure.

Now, if it is cracked there is still hope. I havent seen anyone crack a 351 block either with or without cracks in the top of the camshaft journals. You'll just know they're there....and that alone will suck.
 
How do the camshaft journals look. Since you've got to send it I'd check them for the hairline cracks everyone talks about.

I've seen worse in " brand new " rebuilt engines. The quality if some places really sucks. Guess they feel like if it works it works.....if it doesn't...the customer will ship it back and they'll rebuild it. If the customer takes it apart the warranty is void anyways.

If that block doesn't have cracks in the valley then you have gotten your monies worth for sure.

Now, if it is cracked there is still hope. I havent seen anyone crack a 351 block either with or without cracks in the top of the camshaft journals. You'll just know they're there....and that alone will suck.
I broke a 351.

The pic of me looking at the plugs on the white and purple Mitsubishi Starion was taken by my 26 year old son when he was....
8?......the plug I'm looking at has no electrode....
starion005%201_zpss8mrccp8.jpg

At the time the car was going high 5's in the 1/8th, and I rattled the hell outta the engine when a gas solenoid failed on me.
That engine had those same rods in it that Steve is talking about.
starion004_zpsxdp5gavd.jpg

A 3200lb car running 5.65 in the 1/8th was making serious power..i pulled the engine thinking that I'd just replace the damaged piston, but while washing the thing, getting ready to reassemble, I saw the cracks in the main saddle. I got a new block, and ran the thing for the remainder of the season...the rods properly prepped will not be the problem.
 
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Man talk about sorry luck! I would talk to the seller at least, likely there was a warranty, thats moot now I'm sure.
Steve and I just had the conversation about rattling an engine for just a couple seconds and what it can do, yeah, he call me! Go figure. He was stuck in traffic and bored, guess none of his friends would answer the phone.
 
well i suppose as soon as JR get back with me on the number to the machinest I can figure out what i need to do, I think i am going to wait and see what he says about the block before i order anything..... this way i can take him the other block if needed ect..ect..
I am going to wait and see what he says about the bore size as well, they should clean up easily at 30over but im gonna err on the side of safety.
 
Don't want the new engine prone to detonation.... I was not going to zero the deck on this one, just plane it and move on. With that said the piston will have a .04 gasket and will he .015 in the hole. That's a .055 total distance down in the bore, at roughly 9.5:1 comp ratio. I only have 2 piston options at this point one has the factory style 351 dish in the middle and the other has 4 valve reliefs with what appears to be an otherwise flat top.

Educate me.
 
Don't want the new engine prone to detonation.... I was not going to zero the deck on this one, just plane it and move on. With that said the piston will have a .04 gasket and will he .015 in the hole. That's a .055 total distance down in the bore, at roughly 9.5:1 comp ratio. I only have 2 piston options at this point one has the factory style 351 dish in the middle and the other has 4 valve reliefs with what appears to be an otherwise flat top.

Educate me.[/QUOTE
Oh and i have two differing build plans now....
build a 9.5 cr 357 and use spacers to use the blower and all that comes with redoing the front engine dress....

OR build the 393 using my pistons for a 11.5cr engine and run this on top, this makes things "easy" for me alot more bolt on for the application.
http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=302231893520

I'm sorry, but I'm biased. Now that I have 6 holes looking into my engine, ( that you can actually see a glow while it's running when looking inside the glass top):nice:..
I'm a multi-TB kinda guy. The only reservation i have with this system was the complexity building it, and setting it up.
The visual is worth more than anything else. My freakin used TB's, and the material to build them COST almost 500.00. If I could've bought that system for 1000.00 done like I have, I'd have done it.

And you can buy the whole pig for 900.00 and get the manifold, 8 TB's, the air horns, linkage, and fuel lines....and you're asking us..........

Why?