Doing head gaskets

[ThinBlue502]

Howdy all! Long time, no see. Been a bit crazy with life. I had my busiest year ever at work, had carpel tunnel surgery on one hand, my daughter is on 3 cheer teams at a very competitive level, my wife and I have been traveling a ton, blah, blah, blah.

Anyway, to the Mustang.

I will be replacing the head gaskets on my motor. I’m going with Felpro 9333’s, that’s what’s on it now and it’s lasted for damn near a decade. I had the motor assembled when I had the stroker kit done, that’s what they used.

I’m thinking that I’ll just use ARP head bolts, not studs. I won’t be throwing boost at this motor anytime soon, so I think I’m ok with just bolts.

Anything else I should do at the same time?

Also, any good reference material? I don’t mind buying a book if one is better than another for my current needs. I thought I remembered reading a good write up on this website or Corral on the subject, including pictures and torquing procedure. Many thanks in advance, my friends.

 

[96pushrod]

Dumb question, but Is one of the gaskets on the car bad? It overheat?

Arp bolts are nice, just don’t forget the sealer on the bottom row of fasteners. The arp bolts will come with their torque procedure so you’ll be good there. Just make sure to only put ultra torque on the bolt side of the washer. Leave the head surface dry. Also, running a thread chaser through the block head bolt holes is always a good idea.

With the 9333 gaskets I like to torque them to spec, then run through it around 15 mins after the final torque.

Torque sequences on other parts are pretty widely available on the internet, but honestly the head bolts are pretty much the only things I ever really use a torque wrench on - and the rockers if you’re using pedestal style.

Besides having a new intake manifold gasket set, and maybe header gaskets (if you’re not using aluminum or steel ones), it’s a super straightforward job.

 

[revhead347]

Howdy all! Long time, no see. Been a bit crazy with life. I had my busiest year ever at work, had carpel tunnel surgery on one hand, my daughter is on 3 cheer teams at a very competitive level, my wife and I have been traveling a ton, blah, blah, blah.

Anyway, to the Mustang.

I will be replacing the head gaskets on my motor. I’m going with Felpro 9333’s, that’s what’s on it now and it’s lasted for damn near a decade. I had the motor assembled when I had the stroker kit done, that’s what they used.

I’m thinking that I’ll just use ARP head bolts, not studs. I won’t be throwing boost at this motor anytime soon, so I think I’m ok with just bolts.

Anything else I should do at the same time?

Also, any good reference material? I don’t mind buying a book if one is better than another for my current needs. I thought I remembered reading a good write up on this website or Corral on the subject, including pictures and torquing procedure. Many thanks in advance, my friends.

Felpro 9333 head gaskets are absolutely fine. Both the ARP bolts and studs are fine. I prefer the studs because you can torque them to a scientific certainty. You screw the stud into the block with teflon sealer until it bottoms out. Then the nut is torqued to perfection with ARP moly lube so you know the torque is perfect. With the bolts, you are kind of shooting in the dark torquing it with the teflon sealant in the threads. I would honestly spend the extra $40 or so on the better studs and the moly lube.

The torque sequences are easy to find. It's a step up procedure, top to bottom, center out.

5.0 HO Engine Bolt Torque Specs

Using the correct torque specifications is important. Not enough torque and your bolt will be in a position to absorb the "hits" versus simply transferring the load when there's not...

www.foxstang.com

Kurt

 

[ThinBlue502]

Dumb question, but Is one of the gaskets on the car bad? It overheat?

With the 9333 gaskets I like to torque them to spec, then run through it around 15 mins after the final torque.

Torque sequences on other parts are pretty widely available on the internet, but honestly the head bolts are pretty much the only things I ever really use a torque wrench on - and the rockers if you’re using pedestal style.

Besides having a new intake manifold gasket set, and maybe header gaskets (if you’re not using aluminum or steel ones), it’s a super straightforward job.

The car is pushing coolant out of the overflow tank. Coolant tests positive for exhaust gasses. It’s never overheated, it must be a pretty small leak.

For the price difference being fairly small I’ll probably go with studs over the bolts.

I am running pedestal rockers, I’ll spec those as well as the head stud bolts.

MLS exhaust manifold gaskets are a really great idea, thank you.

Felpro 9333 head gaskets are absolutely fine. Both the ARP bolts and studs are fine. I prefer the studs because you can torque them to a scientific certainty. You screw the stud into the block with teflon sealer until it bottoms out. Then the nut is torqued to perfection with ARP moly lube so you know the torque is perfect. With the bolts, you are kind of shooting in the dark torquing it with the teflon sealant in the threads. I would honestly spend the extra $40 or so on the better studs and the moly lube.

The torque sequences are easy to find. It's a step up procedure, top to bottom, center out.

5.0 HO Engine Bolt Torque Specs

Using the correct torque specifications is important. Not enough torque and your bolt will be in a position to absorb the "hits" versus simply transferring the load when there's not...

www.foxstang.com

Kurt

Thank you for the insight into the studs. I will go that route.

Thank you for the link as well.

 

[revhead347]

The car is pushing coolant out of the overflow tank. Coolant tests positive for exhaust gasses. It’s never overheated, it must be a pretty small leak.

For the price difference being fairly small I’ll probably go with studs over the bolts.

I am running pedestal rockers, I’ll spec those as well as the head stud bolts.

MLS exhaust manifold gaskets are a really great idea, thank you.

Thank you for the insight into the studs. I will go that route.

Thank you for the link as well.

These fricken cars came with paper gaskets. They can fail without overheating. Just par for the course.

Kurt

 

[ThinBlue502]

Can someone double check my homework, please?

These head studs:

And will this upper gasket work for my Cobra manifold?

I’ll ditch the end pieces and seal it up with silicone.

May I please ask for a recommendation on what exact sealant to use?

I’ll use the previously mentioned Fel-Pro 9333’s.

Seems too easy…what am I forgetting?

Many thanks homies.

 

[90sickfox]

You need the intake gasket set for a 96 ford explorer with a 5.0 for the cobra intake. The upper intake gasket has 8 ofset circles not ovals like your pic.

There are 2 small black ford blocks....the 302 ( 7/16 ) and the 351 ( 1/2 head studs ). You need 7/16 head studs for a 302 - aka 5.0

The " Right Stuff " gasket maker by Permatex is good stuff to use on the valley ends. Use Permatex water pump / thermostat housing for the coolant ports on the end holes of the lower intake gaskets. Just a light smear.

 

[ThinBlue502]

You need the intake gasket set for a 96 ford explorer with a 5.0 for the cobra intake. The upper intake gasket has 8 ofset circles not ovals like your pic.

There are 2 small black ford blocks....the 302 ( 7/16 ) and the 351 ( 1/2 head studs ). You need 7/16 head studs for a 302 - aka 5.0

The " Right Stuff " gasket maker by Permatex is good stuff to use on the valley ends. Use Permatex water pump / thermostat housing for the coolant ports on the end holes of the lower intake gaskets. Just a light smear.

Thank you for saving me headaches!
Check on both sealants. Ordered and on the way.
Head studs, noted on size. Thank you again. I think I’m looking at ARP part # 154-4005.

And for gasket:

Is that correct?

 

[96pushrod]

You need the intake gasket set for a 96 ford explorer with a 5.0 for the cobra intake. The upper intake gasket has 8 ofset circles not ovals like your pic.

There are 2 small black ford blocks....the 302 ( 7/16 ) and the 351 ( 1/2 head studs ). You need 7/16 head studs for a 302 - aka 5.0

The " Right Stuff " gasket maker by Permatex is good stuff to use on the valley ends. Use Permatex water pump / thermostat housing for the coolant ports on the end holes of the lower intake gaskets. Just a light smear.

I always just used ultra black/gray or right stuff on the coolant ports and thermostat housing too.

 

[90sickfox]

I always just used ultra black/gray or right stuff on the coolant ports and thermostat housing too.

I used to use right stuff and ultra black on the coolant ports too. Ultra gray was my "go to" before I started using right stuff. I've been getting really good results using dedicated coolant sealers the past couple years.

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

I love those blue silicone "china wall" gaskets. Work great.

 

[ThinBlue502]

Hey bros! Here’s where I’m at. Still waiting on some parts to arrive, but I’ve been taking my time anyway. Also, once you start to pull at a thread, half the sweater comes apart.

I’m ready to remove the heads, but I’m a little unsure on order of process. The motor is at TDC on #1. I was going to start unbolting the rockers. The rockers under spring pressure; should I buy a valve spring compressor, or is it ok to just turn the motor by hand and return to TDC #1 later?

Or am I wrong on all counts and my motor is now going to grenade the next time I’m standing nearby?

Many thanks as always!

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

Just unbolt the rockers, there's no spring pressure on the rocker.

 

[96pushrod]

You can turn the engine over to relieve tension off the rocker, but usually I just unbolt them without doing so.

 

[Monkeybutt2000]

Should've been more clear,the rockers aren't going to fly off or anything if you don't set them on the heel of the cam.

 

[ThinBlue502]

Just unbolt the rockers, there's no spring pressure on the rocker.

Should've been more clear,the rockers aren't going to fly off or anything if you don't set them on the heel of the cam.

Thanks y’all, appreciate it. I envisioned those springs flying off and knocking all my teeth out with my luck.

 

[General karthief]

Wear eye protection

 

[Kid wita 5oh]

Thanks y’all, appreciate it. I envisioned those springs flying off and knocking all my teeth out with my luck.

Springs are held on by keepers on the valve not the rockers

 

[mikestang63]

get the intake gaskets with the steel insterts- either 1262s or 1250s depending on the heads. Throw away the china wall gaskets and lay a nice bead of Right Stuff. Put assembly lube on the washers and bolts The ones that go into the water jacket get pipe dope/thread sealant. Make sure to clean the deck surface and the heads. Do not use a scotchbrite pad. use some razors and brake clean and shop towels . Check the deck and heads for straigtness with a large straight edge and a afeeler guage. if memory serves me right you want under 3 thousands clearance or mill the heads .

that being said- you sure it wasnt just an intake gasket slipping or failed

 

[ThinBlue502]

So after I got the heads off, I believe I found the issue. When I had the stroker put in, the builder reassembled the entire long block as well and apparently did not use any RTV anywhere besides the china walls. None of the water jackets had RTV, though. Now I’ve beat on this car for the last 7 years, so I guess I’ve got my moneys worth out of it.

The plus side was that the old gaskets both came off in one piece with fairly minimal residue left on the heads and block. Cleanup was also fairly easy as a result.

I started putting the studs in last night but didn’t finish. I’ll snap some pics when I get all the studs in, still waiting on some of the other new hardware as well.

Thanks for all the help and insight!