Progress Thread 68 Fastback Build Thread=> Rebuild to Restomod

Introduction of build:
So ----started a build around 2008---had a really Long build thread with Pics on another site - Got Lost to Time.
Dang it.
Stopped build around 2013 = Life.
Now - Have a 15 year old kiddo <girl> that wants to finish build it and drive it to Skool. AWESOME!
So this summer will be a press to get it back together - will document in this thread.


Here are the details (Or what I thought in 2008): <Pulled relevant Excerpt to here>
-2 prior owners (2nd owner never drove it and immediately began dissassembly).
-True 'barn find' ... well shed really.
-The car is FULLY documented...I even have pictures dated March 1968 with the owners hand writing on the back about adding a shelby spoiler (He must've never got around to it). (and all protectoplate stuff and manuals)
- Original: 'J-Code' 302-4 barrel, Highland Green, 3.25 axle ratio, 3-Speed Manual, GT Equip Group, AC, AM Radio, Reflective Group, Remote LH Mirror, Wheel Lip Moulding, Electric Clock.
-Aside from the second owner taking the engine, tranny, and font clip off (I have them) this car is 100% complete. The engine looks like it did in 1968 (It's just rustier and not in the car).
- VERY minor rust issue in the lip of the trunk. No other rust on the vehicle that I could find. Right side looks like he drug a highway marker or something down it and did a basic repair and cheap-o repaint.
...Reading the above ---yikes was I wrong about the rust and body work...

Here are some pics:
1968 State:
1968pics1-jpg.jpg


1968pics2-jpg.jpg



My 'Start' State:
image_004-jpg.jpg


image_007-jpg.jpg


image_006-jpg.jpg


image_010-jpg.jpg

My start
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


Sounds Nice Right?

Unscheduled departures ...to reality:
Rust and pre-1979 bondo repair in Quarters and trunk and Fender... welll..... roof was good.
Storage of vehicle created a 'rainforest environment' in the interior.
Updates to modern and safety were required.
Apparently stopped driving in 1979 because the clutch wore through the pivot mount.


Plan: Eff it - decided to update whatever I wanted and aim for a Shelby looking Restomod.

Update to where we are today: <with pics cuz no pics is boring>
Stripped EVERYTHING off the car
Cut Quarters and Tailpan off - put in new. (..like 9 months)
Re-skinned both doors.
Have the Shelby Fiberglass Kit (Forget whom I ordered it from, but was like $5k) + All shelby grilles and stuff
Updated with MustangSteve Clutch rotation, Adapted over to 11" brakes.
Bought '87 donor Mustang 302 - Rebuilt motor and 5spd Tremec Transmission
Installed center pull brake from donor car

Relevant Pictures: - cuz not cool without it

One reason for the Quarters and tail coming off...Rust on the underside from the "Greenhouse" effect:
1680182883958.png

Also...there was damage in the quarters... around the wheel and the passenger C.

The OMG - what did I do?/??? moment...
1680112649005.png

The Red on the inner structure is rust - just surface though...apparently not painted by Ford.
Rust all cleaned up:
1680182969969.png

Interior dusted and sealed:
1680183554402.png

Reason for White is interesting - Friend of mine pointed out that on his rebuilds he always paints under the dash white...because when you have a problem and need to see under the dash becomes VERY easy, even with a tiny light to see clearly when the underdash is white. Also - doesn't hurt anything to have it white. I will 'Cleanup' the seen areas with flat black.

Cut out the seat pans - cleaned underneath (Needed it!). Cut 1" off height and rewelded further back in the cabin... I am 6'2" and relish the thought of a Mustang that is comfortable to me (NOTE: with the build for the kiddo...I might need to move them back to original ... sigh).

Before and After Seat pans:
1680187198649.png
1680187311363.png


2011 Cobra Brakes mock-up: (Uses Mustang Steve brackets - found someone that had taken brand new brakes/rotors everything off their New car and replaced them with ...something better??? Bought the brakes + rotors)
1680187356511.png


Homemade the body interconnects: (You will see them installed in later pic)
1680187449129.png


Cleaning the underbody ...(Round 1, because there is a round 2):
1680187509251.png
 

Attachments

  • 1680187252070.png
    1680187252070.png
    209.5 KB · Views: 36
Last edited:
Update to current - Continued:

Round 1 After underneath Cleanup:
That is POR-15 black (Never EVER do this) with the original 'primer' overcoat for looks
1680187882265.png

During the cutting for the center pull brake lever...noticed something hanging down under the car. Crawled under there and it was where the POR 15 had separated from the clean metal. Pulled on it and got a strip about 10" long where bare metal was exposed. Crud. The bottom was thoroughly washed and prepped with the chemicals that POR 15 supplies - I guess it is just not good without rust on the metal (I have heard this). Found several other places where the POR15 did not adhere. SIgh. Some places it did - that sucked even worse getting it off the second time.

Needed to remove everything from the bottom of the car AGAIN and repaint.
So... did what any normal person would do and built a homemade rotisserie out of some oilfield pipe, dropped everything I could off the car and lifted/rotated it. Was able to re-clean the bottom side from standing and sitting position...ton of work.
1680188328059.png

On Round 2 of cleaning the bottom - Just left the underside a shiny black= can overcoat with the red primer for authenticity later...or not. The seal from the Gloss black is what I wanted. You can see the installed (homemade) frame connectors....I welded these in on the ground with the car levelled - then left the cleanup for while the car was rotated.

Quarter panel installs took about 9 months lots of pics in the thread as HorseSence very patiently helped me with the problems. First time I have done and there was difficulty getting alignments. For more details CLICK HERE and check out this thread ....HORSESENCE IS AWESOME!!!!

Also - got the Shelby glass kit in - fitment of those is started - not 'completed' yet. Have been on the car for storage. a pic showing alignments of quarters. and the Shelby parts. OH YEAH - notice the tail panel...Decided since I was changing the panel to convert the metal panel anyways to Shelby taillight setup...removes the need for the plastic overlay to convert from the original/Iconic 3 light mustang to the Shelby/Thunderbird light. Cool pic of the wheel well preparing to fill in the spot weld holes....overkill? - probably.
1680189676390.png



front and back view of the car with Shelby panels on :


1680192678191.png
1680192689967.png
 
Update to Current #3

Re-skinned both doors. Bought a re-pop door and was completely dissatisfied with the thinner material build for a door. Sooo...that ended up being a VERY expensive donor piece to replace the front bottom corner of the original door..

Updated clutch assembly with bearings (on motion), modern brake drum assembly, and arc for cable clutch.
Bench assembled prior to install.
1680192866725.png


Donor Car:
1680193010887.png


Trans out of donor car T5 transmission. Car would not go into second gear... Turns out the 'planetary' gear had a burr on the inside not allowing it to slide over the inner gear and engage. Had a friend of a friend who had the exact gear laying around....awesome - got it reassembled and functional (well hopefully functional :) ).
1680193075730.png
1680193093556.png


Motor coming out - has since been completely rebuilt (bored a little, hardcore pistons (I think Hypereutectic...maybe forged, cannot recall), trick flow heads, rebuilt carb <with solid floats in case we need to pressurize the incoming air ;-) >) and sitting on a stand. (Sorry no current picture of rebuilt motor, did choose to paint the block Ford Blue...picture it clean prettier). The AC compressor is shot - but it "Free Spins" so that A/C install can come as we assemble the car. <Yes - I used a car lift to get the motor out>.
1680193282942.png


Assorted pictures: The Ford 9" (Yes original to this car...was small block GT). Before and After.
Found the little guy (Rat Skeleton) behind the Rear Passenger Drivers side Armrest...anyone for a real Rat Rod?
The Pieces are getting the original leaf spring out - bolt would NOT come out of sleeve - had to cut through everything to get in.
1680193973218.png


A pillar issue & repair - Ice pick found soft metal in the A pillar behind the Trim and weatherstripping. Started cutting it out and replacing

1680196041871.png
 
Last few pics and list of what is next...
Cool pic in process...
1680197305644.png


Quarter panels coming off - that last bit near the vent is less fun as it is tacked on three sides.
1680197320431.png


Car as it has been for last few years .... maybe 10???? yikes:
1680197278544.png

Oh yeah - forgot - I did NOT weld in the Shelby roll-bar...I fabbed up a bolt system so I could remove it if I wanted (Hit my head on it twice and the dang thing is coming OUT).

Ok.

What is next?
- ? Do we or Don't we replace the panel underneath the Cowl...? 163 spot welds and a ton of work. Dunno.
- ? Do I pay someone else to re-re skin the doors? try it again?...or is what we have good enough?
- Get the Fiberglass fitment to par.
- Get the panel fitment front to back acceptable.
- LIGHTLY blast the entire car (Walnuts) and then Apply bottom-most layer of paint.
- Bodywork - High build Primer and sanding - Filler where needed (Roof to Quarter) - couple of places where I weld-sealed holes
- Top Layer of Primer/Coat Flat Black - Plus two Grey Stripes (For the fun of it)
- Install electrical harness
- Install new brake lines and dash assembly and rotors/calipers - seal all
- Setup emergency brake functionality
- Install Gas tank - Fuel lines running to front - Fuel pump (electric)
- Clutch setup on motor - Install Motor and Transmission.... fitment
- Radiator and other motor bay parts
- bumpers and outer parts install (Fitment)
- Interior install yikes
- Dash rebuild
- Doors build up (Plus Glass) <Have electric setup for windows>
- carpet, headliner, seats
- Install glass (Front and Back)
- Air conditioner system


Need to buy :
Wheels (10 Spoke 17" <= gotta check what the brakes need for caliper clearance...maybe 18"s> ...and tires.
- Maybe can scavenge temporary usage around.
AC system
Fuel and brake lines <Running front to back>
Fuel Pump
Clutch
Window seals
Stainless Steel bolt kit - <= in the past these have been disappointing, but easier than cleaning the existing original hardware
A billion Miscellaneous parts n things (No telling what all I have accumulated, previous owner gave me all kinds of new interior parts...no telling if they are still usable.


-
 
POR15 does piss me off. But that was my own stupidity - I knew it was iffy and POR15 even says not to use it on bare metal. No way I am leaving a speck of rust on the car so....Zero use for POR15. -CONFIRMED that stuff is NOT for use on cars - just use on where you keep your rusty stuff.
Oh, I had big problems - that is 3-4 years of work outlined above - mentally, I have forgotten all the really hard parts....self preservation I think- same thing with kids, that why they are 4 years apart...takes you that to forget the hard parts. 9 months (working weekends) to adjust/weld on the quarters and tailpan (but they are on in well fitment) - some people have babies in that time.

Am not sure I can finish it in a summer - even with a little helper. undecided on whether to do the Cowl fix or not...afraid it will take too long. What a mess.

Maybe get the kiddo to update the blog forward....

Anyone know what kind of time re-assembly takes? I cannot imagine it goes quick (Even without a real paint job)....
 
Yep por15 will peel like a sheet of paper of clean metal even with there prep kits, better to just use a real 2k epoxy primer/sealer, learned that about 20years ago after removing rubberized undercoat off one of the Gt's I owned.... Still will never buy an under coated car. real Epoxy Primer/ sealer and paint only, no rattle can products.