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  1. R

    bad noise when turning at low speed in 1st gear

    If a tire was rubbing,you should be able to see signs of it in the wheelwell.
  2. R

    Drag shocks

    Well,several. A general rougher ride over bumps and such but a loose "floaty" feeling when driving faster than 35 mph. The car may not track well-meaning it might wander on the road if the surface is rough as you won't have smooth,even control over the springs. More oversteer and less cornoring...
  3. R

    Stillllllll cant decide. which makes more power?

    The Pro-chamber is different than an h pipe as it has a 8 x 8 chamber that the exhaust goes into before exiting the pipe. Of course MAC claims it's better than either an x or an h and I've seem dyno tests in magazines that support that but the difference would be very small. Go by the...
  4. R

    Swaybar install help

    No,you won't need an alignment. You'll need a 12mm deep socket to take the nut off the swap bar to control arm mount. Should be the same size for the swap-bar to chassis mount.
  5. R

    Rear howl, slipping rear end? Stock gears.

    Let us know what it was,my guess is a bearing packed it in and may have caused the trac-lok to slip. You'll lose a little "acceleration power" as the one tire breaks loose then grabs again as the lok kicks back in.
  6. R

    EXHAUST

    The mid pipe will work but not the cat-back.
  7. R

    Tne black tank in the trunk?

    If you're talking about the black pastic ones in some race cars,yes those are the gas tank. They're safer and lighter than the factory ones. Usually that's the only tank in the car.
  8. R

    Drag shocks

    Worse. All dedicated drag shocks are set up for loose bound(extension) and stiffer rebound(contraction). Some guys will live with it but they create weird handling issues on the street.
  9. R

    Control Arms

    Well adjustable are better as they allow you to fine tune your suspension,but they are more exspensive. Most manufacturers have recommendations for how to set their arms up,depending on use.
  10. R

    Few questions for the SN Experts

    1)My Hedman lt's have never interfered with the stock k-member 2)H if you want deep tone,X if you want slightly quieter but higher pitched sound 3)WOT,no doubt. push button activated is scary if you hit it at the wrong time 4)You need the extensions for the front o2's to work,they can't be...
  11. R

    Anyone ever have their hood unlatch at high speed?

    YES!! It happened to me this past spring,except mine actually came off and caused this damage: I was only travelling 70 mph.
  12. R

    Problems with GT to Cobra brake swap

    Cheap pads may not have anti-rattle clips,which is actually what the noise is. You can try some of the stuff you buy from the parts store that you smear on the back side of the pads.
  13. R

    How-to on installing an Aluminum Driveshaft

    Removing and reinstalling the factory yoke between the drivashafts will be a bear so you might want to consider taking it to a shop for that part.
  14. R

    New Tire Suggestion?

    315's will fit the back without problems but you'll need appropiate rims to work with that section width. Front will fit 275(factory cobras used that).
  15. R

    windsor/romeo ??

    All you'd need is a set of cam covers from a romeo engine to make it work.
  16. R

    Brake Problem...

    No,not a wheel bearing problem. Definately anti-rattle clips.
  17. R

    parts for engine

    You'll definately need head gaskets and head bolts/studs. The intake/cam cover/timing chain/oil pan gaskets are reusable. Non-synthetic oil for breaking in the new shortblock for the first 20 minutes. Then more non-syn for breaking the engine in for a few hundred miles,then synthetic after that...
  18. R

    PI intake installation

    That's cool and all but without some adaptors of some kind you'll have a gross mismatch between the ports on the intake and on the heads. You'll actually lose power if you just bolt it on.