Keep the comments coming! Guess I should have gone ahead and put 3.73s on the list, too; but given the intended use, the middle ground might be the best overall solution.
OK, what's you opinion on gears for my '89 hatch restomod project. Here's the basic final set up: naturally aspirated 347 stroker with proportional sizing of intake and exhaust components, and a T56 trannie. How I plan to use it: 75% driving to work (about 30 miles with about 20 of that...
Ok, some questions for the 347 guys.
What size injectors would the most common for a relatively mild N/A EFI 347 for primarily just street use (no blower or NOS)? And accordingly, what fuel pressure & flow rate capability would be needed? Any brand recommendations for a reliable fuel pump...
Watch it, you young whipper-snapper. When people get older, they don't go deaf, they just develop their "selective hearing" skills to filter out all the B.S. Your right, it is past your bedtime.
That'll work, IF the relay activation time (actually the de-activation, or release, time in this case) is less than the time it takes the radio internal power residual to bleed off to the point where the memory is lost. A solid state relay would be faster, if the speed is needed.
That would work if you don't need to disconnect the car battery for more than a few seconds, or a couple of minutes at the most. Of course, it depends on the size of the capacitor and the power needs of the hold circuitry. That's how a VCR holds its memory during a brief power loss, or when...
I think that's been fixed with the more recent versions. I'd really like to hear from anyone who has a CHP 347 (or even 331) that's newer than two years.
You can permanently modify your radio wiring per the attached diagram in order to maintain memory with the vehicle battery removed. Added components and wiring are shown in green. Diode D1 keeps the added battery from feeding back into the rest of the vehicle electrical system. Diode D2...
Hmmm. Doesn't look like your words in quotes got picked up by the ad virus. Maybe we should just start putting all of our words in quotation marks. :shrug:
I did cut a pannel in my old brand X car just for that purpose. You need to make sure you put a cover with a good seal over the hole, though, to keep all the vapors and fumes out. In retrospect, it would have just been easier to drop the tank.
Definately go with the metal replacement. Mine broke several years ago. Ford wanted $45 for the PLASTIC replacement, so I made my own from aluminum. (No one offered aftermarket metal replacements at the time.) Works great and looks almost like the original.
To fit your definitions, let's say "agressive street." I want it to be responsive around town and on those winding country roads, but not beat me to death on the long haul intersatate.