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  1. V

    Engine swap

    If you have a donor car, you should be good to go. Lots of little parts to think about. About the only thing I did new was a radiator and brake shoes. The rest came out of a dead Falcon which is the same, drive train wise, as a '65-'66 Mustang. I did the swap on a dead '65 Mustang convert...
  2. V

    Heads to port or not to port

    Well, I had the head shop put 351 valves in when I did my last build -- because I wanted a little more flow. Was doing hardened seats anyway. Since they did the valves and guides, they cleaned up the areas beneath the valves. I gasket matched the ports. It helped a fair amount. Out of the...
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    TDC and distributor question!

    After ensuring that the no. 1 piston is on the firing stroke, gently drop the dizzy body into the hole, makng sure that the rotor points near the no. 1 spark plug tower on the cap. I have the most trouble lining the oil pump driveshaft. I use a 1/4" drive socket (I forget the size, but 5/16 or...
  4. V

    For those who did a T5 swap

    Do you mean adapter plate by "block plate"? If so, it is because the T5's shifter location is 1" closer to the engine than the old trannys. And the bolt pattern is slightly different than the T10, Top loader or 3 speed these things came with (don't know about the automatics). The plate...
  5. V

    T-5 Clutch

    I use the stock Hipo linkage since I have Hipo manifolds and a stock bell housing modified for the spacer. Keep everything greased and the system works great and is smooth. It is in a '65 convert. with a 6 bolt bell on a warmed up '74 302 block. I also use an 11" diaphram clutch; the flywheel...
  6. V

    powertrax

    I run a 3.40 Tractionlock in my '65 convert. Took two hours to make the swap. I bought the pumpkin for $400.00 from a supplier in Hemmings Motor News. Runs pretty well. Now, I don't know anything about Powertrax, but I'm happy with the unit I bought. It came originally from a '67 Fairlane...
  7. V

    Calling on the wisdom again, I'm stumped

    Are you sure your plug wires are installed correctly? I, and many who are way more experienced than me, have made this mistake, especially on 7 and 8. It is worth checking.
  8. V

    headers / muffler question...

    I run gasket matched Hipo exhaust manifolds. Not quite as free flowing as headers, but way better than stock, last forever and plug access is just like stock. I also run Flowmaster 50 Series Deltaflows. They are not terribly noisy and added power compared to the glass packs I used to have...
  9. V

    Fuel gauge help!

    Pull the unit out and test it. If it is good, then the float is bad; they do leak and fill with with gas sometimes. You can replace the float with a sealed metal 35MM film canister. The whole cost is that of the cannister and the gasket. Wire it to the hanger. Hey, what can I say? I'm cheap!
  10. V

    Help on Choosing new intake

    What are your rear end and first geat ratios? And what are your cam specs? The idea is to keep the engine in its power band. The RPM, with decent gears is great for street. The Jr. is better on the track for higher RPM bands. I am really happy with my RPM on my streeter. The Jr. has poor...
  11. V

    oil pressure question

    Standard is about 10PSI per 1,000 RPM. A good gauge is your lifters (if hydraulic). If they are adjusted properly and not clacking, you're probably ok. Also, are you sure that your sending unit is accurate? If not, it could cause false readings at the gauge.
  12. V

    Soo confused with the numbers

    Hi and welcome -- a shop manual has all of the numbers (specs) you need. You can find one at a Mustang shop, Hemmings Motor News or type in "shop manual" in your favorite search engine (Google is good) and order one.
  13. V

    Vibration is driving me nuts!!!!!!!!!!Any help please

    Last year my dampener cracked at the bolt hole letting it move a little at a time. After a few weeks the key way was hogged out enough that it felt like an out of balance pressure plate. Luckily I had and extra dampener and that took car of it. Drove me freakin' crazy. Your damperener bolt...
  14. V

    Something went wrong.... BOOM

    No worries. I built a '74 block with performance parts, and flat top pistons and home ported '68 heads to get the compression back. It screams, even with 155,000 miles. It didn't when stock. That together with what I learned from the '72 and '73 I had told me what I needed to do get to the...
  15. V

    Something went wrong.... BOOM

    Not true -- there were a lot more changes than that to get to a certain smog standard. I know, I had one. I wish I still had the shop manuals so I could scan and show you the specs. They were different; pistons, cam duration and (I think) lift, distributor timing and an awful exhaust system...
  16. V

    discouraged

    What I was getting at was that the nut might have backed off on one of them, not that a lifter collapsed. I'd bet on the nut; have had it happen more than once. By the way, hydraulics do indeed need to be adjusted depending on the mileage of the engine or how they were were set up to start...
  17. V

    Something went wrong.... BOOM

    Probably true, however compression was down, timing was way slower, cam profiles were way different and intake was wimpy. I had a '72 and then a '73. The '73 was much less powerful. It was noticable. Undoing all of that will bring it all back and more.....
  18. V

    discouraged

    Think one thing at a time -- these are old cars. Sounds like you need to adjust the lifters as a start point. I keep a set of old valve covers with the tops cut out and and adjust them with the engine running. I had one nut back off at around 100,000 miles. I adjusted them all and have a...
  19. V

    Something went wrong.... BOOM

    Man, sorry this has happened to you. Of the top of my head it sounds like a rod nut was not tight, and let the rod come loose. If that happened, and the cap came off, the crank probably picked the rod up on its side and toasted your block in the bore skirt area. I'd look for an early block...
  20. V

    Rear Gear Recommendations

    Basically, recurving refers to modifying when the timing comes in and how much total (vacuum and mechanical) you have. It does make a difference as the curve is slow from the factory. You want it to come in faster than stock but not so fast that it causes the engine to ping. One a 351 I don't...
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