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    Idles then dies when SPOUT is in

    Did you get the new idle air controller on there? You've officially eliminated the EGR system now so you'll have to start looking elsewhere. A gunky, dirty, worn out, or old idle air control valve would cause similar issues.
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    starting issue

    I would still say it's your ignition switch. Classic example of one that is worn out. Your distributor has a "hall effect" sensor in it. It does not have a traditional "pick-up", but it is a sensor that sends an on-off-on signal to the computer. Power is supplied to the TFI module, hall effect...
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    were is my spout conector ?

    That does sound like your spout connector. Almost sounds like your ignition switch is going bad.
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    Idles then dies when SPOUT is in

    I too had to replace my EGR valve when I bought my 88. It had a hole in the vacuum diaphragm. Interestingly, the new valve, after installation would set a code 34 and I would stall occasionally. Sound familiar now?? Just remebered this while reading your response. The culprit: The valve tip was...
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    Idles then dies when SPOUT is in

    This is really starting to stump me now. It really points to a malfunctioning sensor, the idle air controller, or a large vacuum leak. But, it's tough to tell. If you put your foot on the gas and hold the rpms up when it tries to kick down, does it still run? Does it misfire?
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    were is my spout conector ?

    Dumb question, but I've got to ask, you are pumping the gas pedal (at least once to the floor) before attempting to start it? If you are, then I would say either the choke is not adjusted properly or the carb needs a rebuild. Mine started on the first shot and idled at 2000rpms until you kicked...
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    were is my spout conector ?

    It did seem to give it a small boost in power, mostly above 2500rpms. I have an automatic transmission that I desperately want to replace with a T5. The main reason I did the 2 barrel conversion and duraspark conversion was so I can have complete control over fuel and ignition. You can adjust...
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    were is my spout conector ?

    To answer your questions: There are a few wires running right around that area that are all sort of the same color (age changes white wires to a yellow color). You have a wire leading from the back of your alternator to your choke. A line is spliced in and runs to the choke relay (relay...
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    were is my spout conector ?

    Your car would be identical to mine (before I did the 2 barrel conversion) so it should be in the exact same place as it was on mine. Looking at your distributor, you have the TFI module on it. Follow the wiring harness that comes out of it. There should be a small connector there (they used a...
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    Idles then dies when SPOUT is in

    If you haven't, I would try replacing the ignition module. Sometimes they act up like that. I would maybe try pulling the codes again (just remember, everytime you disconnect the battery cable, all the codes are erased again until the car goes through at least 1 warmup cycle).
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    Idles then dies when SPOUT is in

    Some things to check: 1. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks. 2. Ensure that there is no vacuum to the EGR valve at idle. 3. Maybe the MAP/BP sensor is bad? 4. Check the throttle stop screw and make sure it is at minimum making contact when the throttle is closed 5. Check the PCV valve to...
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    Aggrivating ignition problem Please help

    I thought my capri had a lot of mileage on it!! (It has 218K). What kind of motor oil are you using in it? Has it ever been rebuilt? Any gaskets or seals changed out?
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    Aggrivating ignition problem Please help

    First thing I would do is replace the ignition module. Erratic tachometer operation would be caused by this, along with all your other troubles.
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    Transmission Sel.

    The only solenoid controlled parts of that transmission would be the 3-4 shift and converter clutch lockup. If the shifts have lag to them, that could be caused by poor or low fluid, a bad vacuum servo (fitted into passenger side of transmission and can be easily replaced if bad), a gummy valve...
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    need vin decoder help

    Probably 1D. (see my one above post for some paint code possibilities). Saw your pictures, looks like a good starting point for a project. Just be sure that you replace that timing belt pronto!! Get a timing belt kit. It comes with the belt and a new tensioner. It's like 75 bucks. The last thing...
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    need vin decoder help

    No prob. I've even gotten information about my 86 Capri directly from Ford stating it is fuel injected!! I think it's a common misconception since the 87-93 2.3L's are all EFI, and the Ranger 2.3L was EFI since 84 or 85. For some reason the Mustang(79-86 "foureye" type)/Capri/Marquis/LTD never...
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    need vin decoder help

    I don't see a paint code in your stuff you posted up. If the car looks silvery, it could be 1E silver metallic, 1D smoke metallic, 4M dark slate metallic, or 3J light regatta blue metallic (turns greyish when heavily weathered). Check your door tag for a code matching one of those. As for vacuum...
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    need vin decoder help

    I found that Simple Green, some rags, a bucket of water, and a stiff bristle brush make seats and carpet look new. I cleaned up a capri seat with the stuff and it looks new now. Smells clean too. As for rolling idle, if those computer systems have any issues, it will cause it to hunt for idle...
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    Very ill Mustang

    Check the EEC power relay. If that's no good, nothing will work.
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    need vin decoder help

    Your 86 2.3L automatic mustang would have the following equipment: -1 barrel Carter YFA feedback carburetor. -EEC IV electronics for ignition and emissions controls -C3 3 speed automatic transmission -3.27:1 open rear end (7.5" axle housing) -Charcoal fabric interior -Am/Fm Multiplex radio...
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