So I have a older style factory starter that I upgraded to a mini-starter. From what I can tell with a thread gauge it’s a M6 with a 1.25 thread pitch.
I have a Cobra with a ported lower on my AFR 165 setup and it works pretty well. I’m sure a Performer RPM 2 or SystemMax would make more power up top, but I like the low end the Cobra has.
Unplugging the MAF meter puts the car in limp mode and fueling calculations are coming from pre-defined tables at that point. So there could be a number of things that are the problem and unplugging the MAF is masking them. Things that come to mind are:
MAF of course (there have been some...
Unless you plan on doing tons of mods to the car something like a Holly Sniper EFI might do the trick for you. It would sure be easier and cheaper than trying to install a stock EFI setup on it.
I have a late 1990 build 1991 model and mine has the old style latch. I do not have a bumper in that location either, but mine does have one further up on the hatch.
Not in my case. It’s because aftermarket CC plates don’t have the nice little cupped pocket like the factory strut mounts do so whenever the suspension bottoms they slam against the bottom of the CC plates that are just spherical bearings. That’s why Maximum Motorsports created these for cars...
Not a auto, but I’ve never had any issues with excessive engine movement. I had the K member off a few months ago to do the oil pan gasket and was able to give them a good inspection. They still looked new. Maybe I just got a good set.
I agree that the Anchor mounts aren’t the best. I did have to tweak one to make it fit right, but they’ve been on the car for 6 years now with no issues. I’m sensitive to NVH so I’m sure the poly ones would drive me insane, but each to their own there.
Consider going with a Steeda or MM bump steer kit instead of standard outer tie rod ends. That way you can dial in your bump steer as you mod your suspension.
I used the Ram HDX clutch and have been really happy with it. I used stock motor and trans mounts. Felpro makes a Teflon rear main seal I would heavily recommend. Also make sure you get the modern one piece Felpro oil pan gasket.
That style of bump stop lasted about 1k miles on my setup with Steeda CCs before splitting all to hell. I ended up getting the Maximum Motorsports one and left the dust shields off.
You are correct. I didn't have a wiring diagram in front of me when I made that post. I didn't cut 46, that's the signal return and cutting it would cause a ton of issues. I cut the wire coming out of pin 30, capped the harness side of the wire, and connected my new wire to the wire coming...
So I had a weird issue with mine a few years ago and spent days troubleshooting why the system wouldn’t work correctly. I determined it was a damaged wire coming off of pin 46 somewhere in the wiring harness. I fixed it by clipping the wire coming out of pin 46 a few inches away from the...
My 1st thought would be PIP or TFI module.
I doubt it's the fuel pump, but with about any H/C/I setup you are on the edge of what the stock 88lph pump can handle so upgrading to that 155lph will be a good thing.