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  1. True 5.0

    motor falls off at 5k....

    Whoops! I need to correct myself. The stock rev limit is set to 6250 not 5800. What rev limit module are you running in the 6AL? It'll be printed on the back of it. FWIW - The 6AL rev limit module should ALWAYS be set lower than the limit in the EEC. The fuel shut-off of the EEC is a great way...
  2. True 5.0

    motor falls off at 5k....

    You say you have the shift light set to 6200. Do you mean the rev limit? Did you some how bypass the computer rev limiter? The factory rev limiter works by shutting down the fuel supply around 5800 RPM IIRC. The 6AL works by cutting spark to random cylinders and is set using a variety of plug-in...
  3. True 5.0

    Hailine Crack in cylinder ?

    I would be looking for something other than a crack. Boring .060 over is way too much for a stock block (you already know that). Old or high mileage blocks get very rusty inside the water jacket and as a result the cylinders can become porous with large over-bores. Another very common leak is a...
  4. True 5.0

    Who is running twisted wedge heads?

    I have the first generation TFS TW heads with pedestal rockers. I think they should still make them that way. Anyway, I did end up with a failed valve guide shortly after I installed them. They were experimenting with cast iron guides back then. I sent them back to TFS and they sent me a brand...
  5. True 5.0

    Hailine Crack in cylinder ?

    Yes, the symptoms would be very similar as long as the crack went into the water jacket.
  6. True 5.0

    Removing wheel spacers.........they don't want to come off

    FWIW - I'm not saying anything WILL happen. I'm just concerned about what MIGHT happen. Heating the spacer up with a torch will let you pull it off by hand and there won't be any need for hammering or adapters.
  7. True 5.0

    where to find plug wires....

    Accel makes a set of 8.8mm wires that I picked up at Auto Zone. IIRC $80 - $90 with a "lifetime warranty".
  8. True 5.0

    Removing wheel spacers.........they don't want to come off

    Therian's picture helps out a bunch. I can see my last suggestion is impractical. I would NOT use a slide hammer w/ lug attachment either. You will essentially be pounding the C-clip in the differential and may damage or even shear it. The best way to do this at home will be with a torch. The...
  9. True 5.0

    underdrive pulleys

    Most underdrive sets have the alternator pulley much LARGER than the stock one. The concept is to slow down the RPM's of the accessories relative to the crank RPM's. My set has a smaller than stock crank pulley and a larger than stock water pump and alternator pulley. All the others do not get...
  10. True 5.0

    Bosch O2's. What part #?

    The OEM style is PN 13127 and the Universtal style is PN 15730. I would only use the OEM style. The 4 sensor listing must be a typo or you looked at the 96 - up listing.
  11. True 5.0

    Removing wheel spacers.........they don't want to come off

    I see you live in IL. Since you guys tend to dump tons of salt on the roads in winter like we do in WI, the steel, aluminum and salt react resulting in the aluminum corroding to the steel. essentially the aluminum has grown making the hole over the hub smaller. your best bet is to remove the lug...
  12. True 5.0

    Tailpipes?

    You could put a wanted line in your signature, too. I'm sure there are many members that have or are going to put a cat-back system on. You'll probably be able to get their old pipes for next to nothing. They'd be headed for the dumpster anyway.
  13. True 5.0

    Timing chain question

    Isn't the crank keyway pointed straight up @ TDC?
  14. True 5.0

    upgrading alternator

    I had the same problem but I fixed it. I replaced the brushes and regulator with a new set and all is good.
  15. True 5.0

    Do these cars have limited slips or no?

    +1 It was and still is standard issue on a GT. You may be confusing the optional gear ratio which was listed as a "3.08 ratio Traction Lok rear differential" or something like that. The cost for that option was about $100, too.
  16. True 5.0

    U-Joints

    Yes. you will want to orient the zerk so that as the DS turns, it gets compressed between the shaft & differential yokes.
  17. True 5.0

    96 swap to 5.0

    I think the brake booster is different in our cars from the 96 & up. You will also need a new H or X pipe, headers, K-member, transmission, drive shaft slip yoke, computer and probably a new wiring harness. The front engine cover and water pump is different on the Mustang than the Mountaineer...
  18. True 5.0

    U-Joints

    For the $40 it'll cost you to put in a good set of U-joints, don't waste your time taking the old ones out and putting them back in. Just replace them.
  19. True 5.0

    Which O2 Sensors would you buy?

    I've heard that either Bosch or OEM units are the ones to go with. The rest seem to fail.
  20. True 5.0

    MSD Box for Nitrous

    This is the one you want. You tie in the NOS trigger wire to the unit and it will automatically retard the timing to a preset value. No juice, no retard. Give 'er the laffy gas, get the retard you need. :nice: http://www.msdignition.com/ignition_18_6520.htm Page 2 of the instructions explains...
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