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    should i advance e cam

    I was going to advance my E303 cam with mods similar to yours - but after playing with the timing, fuel pressure, etc... I am quite pleased with it dot-to-dot - it now has good low end pull with quick rev's and good power up to where I use it daily up to 5k RPM. I have 1.7's, Crane springs, 76mm...
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    5spd + Pro5.0 = hard to put in 1st gear?

    thanks guys - as I said - everything is new on the current setup and has been adjusted properly - the clutch starts to engage a few inches from the top of travel - just where I like it on all of the t-5's I have had and it has done this on EVERY PRO 5.0 or Steeda TriAx I have used on both...
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    5spd + Pro5.0 = hard to put in 1st gear?

    Anybody else have this problem? I have had both Steeda Tri-ax and Pro 5.0 shifters on a couple of 5spds and both were hard to put in first gear when sitting stopped at a red light. New pilot bearing, new throwout bearing, new Centerforce Dual friction clutch, resurfaced flywheel, professionally...
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    Shelby prices still HIGH? I found one

    the local dealer here had 2 of them - the white with blue stripes was already gone and the blue with white stripes one I was able to look at had a window sticker of $45k but I was told that the actual price they would accept was $57k (hardtop) - they also had 2 GT40 that are long gone - I was...
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    So who has removed their charcoal canister?

    Hey - it depends on the movie I guess.... but I am still chasing the smell - seems to be on hot days and the smell is not like that of fresh raw fuel but an old musty type raw fuel vapor smell - hard to describe other than "fowl" without feathers and wings... which leads me to believe it has to...
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    5.0 throttle cable in 66

    Try putting the cable in the other hole on the bracket to see if it helps - the angle may be just what you need - and YES it does need to open "all the way" on the butterfly and the spring should not bind when it does.
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    Horn troubleshooting, '89 Mustang GT

    I had one that did not work at one time - I pulled off the horn button pad and the wires were disconnected - when I connected them I found out why --- the pad had been hit so hard that the metal contact plates inside it were touching and caused the horn to go off constantly -- I fixed this by...
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    5.0 throttle cable in 66

    I have a 1970 mustang 5.0 FI resto-mod -- I used a 1990's Thunderbird 3.8 v-6 throttle cable to fit right -- You can also check with www.ronmorrisperformance.com to get the right cable. FYI I have my cable hooked up to the outer slotted area of the throttle bracket that you have left blank in...
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    So who has removed their charcoal canister?

    HA, HA!!!! "FOWL" fuel odor = chicken vs. dino fuel -- you crack me up =) get it - crack me up - chicken... egg.... geez - I'm corny -- get it - corny - chickens eat corn.... DOH! -- Seriously though -- I have a new AFPR by Kirban and there is no wetness on the cannister and all the vacuum lines...
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    Taking the leap.

    I sold a 1987 GT because it had a bad heater core a few years back --- it is a pretty bad job and I work on all kinds of things all the time and do it in my spare time as my Mustangs are just toys I drive when I want and leave them in pieces for days if I have to. However before I sold that 87...
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    So who has removed their charcoal canister?

    I have noticed my car smells of a fowl fuel smell on hot days once it has heated up and I am at a stop sign for a few seconds and I have been trying to trace it down - My vacuum hoses are connected to the intake, cannister, cannister to hose to tower, under car and back etc... no breaks in the...
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    COOLING

    i got a couple really nice and cheap copper 3 core radiators off e-bay for less than 95.00 BRAND NEW and a 3.8 V-6 Taurus fan from the salvage yard -- just DO NOT MOUNT THE ELECTRIC FAN TO THE RADIATOR WITH THOSE CHEAP PLASTIC FAN MOUNT STRAPS!!!!! it caused one radiator to fail on me - now I...
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    when i check my timing with the spout out and its at 12, what should it be with it in

    I notice that the timing will bounce all over when the spout goes back in - the computer takes over that chore with it in but the base timing you set with it out the computer only adds to it
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    Clunking when letting clutch out in first...help

    do you mean the front bearing retainer that has 4 bolts and goes over the input shaft? I have a similar concern with my car - 3k miles ago the trans was rebuilt with a new steel front bearing retainer, new throwout bearing, new clutch fork, new pivot, centerforce dual friction clutch...
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    no spin?

    if you have a mass aif flow meter you can clean the little heated wire elements inside it with electrical parts cleaner and gain quite a bit usually. Also you can unplug the spout connector on the distributer and bump the timing to about 14-15 degrees advanced and gain quite a bit - put the...
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    pop or clunk sound 50% of the time when going from forward to reverse or vice-versa

    Great! - now I DON'T look forward to getting down and dirty under the car again with no lift but at least it is worth a try.... Sometimes I wonder why I love these cars soooo much.... I could always buy a new Toyota and be bored hmmmmm...... Thanks for the advice.
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    pop or clunk sound 50% of the time when going from forward to reverse or vice-versa

    Do I understand you correctly -- I am to pull the drive shaft and put grease inside the front yolk splines and slide it back on the transmission tail shaft? That seems to make sense - it would make the drive shaft slip in and out smoothly as the car goes over bumps or goes from forward to...
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    pop or clunk sound 50% of the time when going from forward to reverse or vice-versa

    checked the 12mm bolts on the drive shaft - they are tight - I also tried wiggling the drive shaft again - this time there was NO slack in it - on other occasions I have been able to wiggle it back and forth a half inch or so - is this normal? I always have had some back and forth drive shaft...
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    ticking from transmision

    adjust your clutch cable a little bit if you have an adjustable cable or if you have the stock set up you can pull up on the clutch pedal by hand and let it self adjust - sounds like the throw out bearing does not have any or enough pre-load - mine has ticked, squeeked, chirped, etc... on...
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    pop or clunk sound 50% of the time when going from forward to reverse or vice-versa

    good ideas - I wiggled the drive shaft the other day but it has no slack, no loose u-joints, I will check the 12mm bolts to see how tight they are - seems logical that they would cause it based on the feel and the sound.
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