Small white dots could indicate detonation, as for being lean, what was the engine doing right before you checked the plugs? there are different adjustments for idling, highway cruising, full throttle etc..
Use the torque spec specified by ARP that comes with the bolt kit, its dependant on the lube/sealer you use also thats why I recommended you buy theirs
Yes...regardless of how they look, torque to yield are 1 time use only, you could take your chances if you like, I wouldnt
If you order the ARP's get a tube of the ARP thread lube for the uppers and sealer for the lowers
With a standard oil pump the stock shaft is fine, yes they do twist and break....when the pump locks up!!!! with the upgraded shaft something is still going to give in the case of an oil pump lockup, rather it be the shaft than my distributor or cam gear
"A" (yellow/white) connect to the charging post along with the 2 ga wire
"S" (white/black) connect to the 3G stator connector
"I" (green/red) connect to a 12v+ source which is powered during start/run
here is a link to a pdf diagram...
http://www.bcbroncos.com/3ginstall.pdf
You wont get any timing advance keeping the TFI distributor, best bet is a duraspark distributor/TFI coil/GM HEI module....yes GM!!, unless you want to spend the $$$$ on a MSD setup
Probably not enough belt/pulley contact, you have a picture of your belt routing? you might try a different route if possible to get more belt on the alt pulley
Youll need a hood also along with the lower fender extensions, I would be interested in the front clip as well, fog lights too if they are original and in good shape
Yep its on the inboard end, if the engine is out of the car you can remove the cam bore plug on the back of the block and see the part # without removing the cam, thats what I did