when was the last time that the timing was checked? If you have not done the timing before, make sure to disconnect the spout. If that does not fix it I would also do a tune up if it has not been done in a while. I think that if it was any other kind of problem a check engine light would come...
Thanks for all of the replies. :hail2:
so that beep that i heard is real? im not going crazy? :D Because I did not think that there was any auditory warnings in our cars for low voltage or anything.
why did the tach stop working? is that a normal thing to happen when there is a voltage...
first I would clean and check all of the lines for leaks, maybe put in a can with stop leak and dye. see if it will fix the problem and if it doesnt the dye will show you where its leaking. you can rent a vacuum pump from some antozones, buy an AC o-ring kit or just an assortment and a new...
I drive my dads ranger more than my own car. After the last set of problems were fixed, I drove the car for four days before it broke again. Problem after problem and so on. :nonono:
at first the voltage dropped on the gauge and battery light came on, the voltage stayed on the O of NORMAL on...
Ive never used interior dye before, but it sounds a lot easier. It is a PITA:( . but dont be afraid to get in there. I had to remove my dash to replace a leaking heater core. if those directions above arent good enough get a haynes manual. when reinstalling the dash make sure that you push it...
seems like most strokers are the 28oz but that card should tell you what you need. The stock balancer is 50oz, i dont think you should be driving the car with the stock 50oz piece if your rotating assembly requires a 28oz. I think it could hurt the engine, not sure how serious of a problem this...
The two major factory grounding points on the block that i know of are a stud on the drivers side of the timing chain cover and the stud closest to the front of the car holding the drivers side motor mount to the block.
just replaced mine with a pioneer/powerbond piece from summit, they price matched it for $165. no spacer needed, 50 oz, went on easy, SFI approved, good up to 12,500 RPM (excessive) :rolleyes: . Part number PIO-872030.
two are for the smog pump, one is for the egr, and the other gos to the upper intake manifold. If you still run the egr you will need one of those, and im not sure of the purpose for the one to the intake manifold.
no problem. this site is great. Ive had quite a few problems and everyone here is so helpfull. I feel like i know a lot about mustangs and cars in general, but i know there is still a lot to learn. so i help where i can, to try to earn my keep around here. :SNSign:
Good info. thank you. these terms are a little new to me. HC (hydrocarbons) is unburnt fuel that got pushed past the piston rings and what exactly is H2? H2 also was pushed past the piston rings? all engines have blowby? or just older engines with worn rings? I need to replace that metal screen...
Oil comes up my pcv into my intake manifold and keeps fowling my rear two plugs making the car run rough :( . i dont want to put an oil seperator in, but if it was the only choice i would. Can i just cap off everything on the cai and intake manifold, and put breathers on the oil fill tube and...
hopefully you are wrong and only confused about what they did :D , or they really screwed up your emissions equipment. :eek:
as already said, the egr tube is a metal tube that gos from your exhaust header up to your EGR valve that mounts on your upper intake manifold.
the smog pump (air...
My bassani x pipe is almost done getting the new cats welded in, so ill be reinstalling it soon. What do i have to do so i wont have any exhaust leaks? Are there any special tips or tricks to do this? My new header gaskets came with collector gaskets and rings, should I use these? I didnt even...
I just went out and checked what size it was that fit and both the top and bottom nut on the EGR tube are 1". With the crows foot, extension, and socket wrench set up you also have enough room to use a breaker bar for extra torque to get it off. Some Liquid Wrench super penetrant will also help.
Thanks, that is exactly the info I was looking for. Thats the one I have been looking at, and probably going to get. Do the timing marks only go up to 10 BTDC, cause that is what the description on summit's page says? :shrug:
I want something much better than a stock replacement, but should be under $200. The pioneer/powerbond seems like the best choice. Still not sure if ill need spacers or if the timing marks will goo high enough though?