If you ran 12's w/your old motor, and now have a 10sec. motor all i can say is drive a Yugo for a week and then hammer your ride. Thats your difference.lol
thc420 make sure you get the OCTANE BAR from your friend also. if you dont the chip will pretty much give you crap. I ran it with and without the bar to see the diff.
If the fluid is ok, then start saving ITS TOAST. same symptoms on my AOD when they went out.
P.S. low5.0 just saw you are from vegas also do you associate w/ any car clubs in town??
If your ADS chip is a piggy-back chip then i had one like it in my stock 90lx AOD. The only mod i had was flows. The ADS Superchip i had came w/ a 160 stat and an Octane bar. The bar replaced the OEM bar in the dist. The chip DID make a difference(maybe 20hp) But as soon as i made my first mode...
see the atl. and the p/s. the belt goes in the shape of an S oround the w/p and the crank. How can you not see how i ran it????? its in the pic. Thanks for the comment on the engine/bay
forget the size, sorry and the markings are rubbed off the belt. 2 options get a piece of string and run it like you would the belt(the correct way) measure it. You should be close. Drive to the nearest parts store and grab a few belts go out to your car and try em out till you find the right...
what year stang ya got? 87-93 have reverse rot. pumps, are you saying you had to route your serp. belt diff. and now your pump is going forward? If so YES that would cause overheating. I have no a/c s/p and my belt is correct.
i feel for ya. i had a shop here in Vegas do a 347 for me they had it for a few months. And when i got it the damn thing blew up after 1 1/2 miles it went back and it blew again(2days) went back and 3 weeks later picked it up and took it to be chipped/dynod 249rwhp(joke) took it back got it a...
not sure what stores are in your area. but i know autozone,checker,napa uaually sell diff. brands. save your receipts and try em all.whatever dont work take back. you can get the codes on your own EASY www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
ya said your timing is off(pinging/missing) forget what your dampner says, take it down till there is no det. and drive it. i had sim. probs. it would idle for days 180-195 as soon as i drove it 230-250. Timing related for me. and the ACT was bad.
are you throwing codes? I changed the ACT sensor with one from AutoZone(wells) twice neither of them worked. So i went to ford, it sucks cause i spent an 25-30 bucks but it worked better.
ps DirtyD916 im from Pleasanton, just curious where in NorCal ya from
OK guys here it is. check your dash plaque cause it says "25 years" not 25th ANV. Ford did forget the 25 anv. so they put the plaque on two model years 89-90 your right about that. But ford did send out 1 car to be done as the 25th ANV. " Special Edition. And i bought it from ford in Cali in 93...
They are BS'ing you ALL THE WAY i worked for a ford dealership. Someone took your car for a RIDE i bet and i mean, Drive it like you stole it. Clean your maf , remove the neg. from batt. try to clear the maf code. The hard fault code 98(i think) just means you didnt pass the KOEO test(ie maf) If...
One thing ive learned is ANYTHING can be fast. Im with all these guys - Pop the hood !!!!!!. We have soo many imports here in Vegas with that Fake Blow-off valve, what a joke. My friend had a V6 w/supercharger mid 13's not bad for a V6 stang. Yeh if he thinks its a GN or a TTA he WAY OFF...
i cut out the Y ,or the wishbone they call it. on the hood. Although i had the Cobra i did have a 1in spacer. cleared fine, hood was still stable(strong)
got a code 54(act) and 98. I looked it up and all i could find was
98,
Electronic pressure control driver open in EEC (E4OD)
Hard fault present -----
( The test was KOER ) Can you please shed some light on this for me, thanks.
your going 100 in the 1/4, and the spare is rated NOT to exceed 50(even though it can) So its your neck. We all buy tires at Pepboys, we ask for Volkswagon tires.lol