So I finally got around to ordering some wheels and tires for my stang. I got 17x9 and 17x10.5 black deep dish wheels wraped in Sumitomos. 315/35/17 for the rear, and 255/40/17 for the front. I saw that mustangtuning.com had these wheel spacers...
One more thing, if you can find it use Liquid Wrench. I found it to work better then PB Blast and WAY better the WD-40. Oh and if you can get them in time, get the stage 8 header locking bolts.
Are they long tubes or shorties? I did my long tubes in my buddies garage up in college park. It was not the easiest thing in the world, but if you got a buddy working with you, you should be alright.
I agree, when your power level increases beyond what your stockers can do, then upgrade. Otherwise stick with what works. But if you do need some, I have some 38#'ers in the classifieds.
Mine came with a white wire for the lighting, the red wire pluged into the ignition. I have a cobalt tach. and vac./boost gauge and all of them had white wires for lighting. If yours doesnt then there is something wrong with it.
I like the antenna tip. You could do an at home lowering kit by cutting your springs or heat them up and compressing them, but I wouldn't recommend it. Remember, good ***** doesnt usually come cheap.
Yeah those cheap pads might be the problem. Motorcraft pads are pretty good, but you can go with a good aftermarket set for cheap. But not Auto Zone. Get out of the Zone, Auto Zone.
Def. go with the stage 8's. Shop around for a good price if you are going to let a shop do it. It is a pain to put LT's on our cars, but if you do it yourself you will enjoy them more.
Mine have a little rust by the collector but thats it. I havent had any issues with the gaskets yet, but most people have issues right away from what Ive heard. And I have also heard that if you get long tubes installed by a shop, it might cost around 1G.