I have rebuilt them with the alternate stacking method for years. You will get better longevity and better lock up. I have one living behind my buddy's supercharged 97 Cobra with over 500 rwhp. It's survived 2 plus years of street and drag abuse.
If you are just doing a quick and dirty job then do it yourself. You just need the kit, some carb or brake cleaner and maybe borrow a cylinder hone.
A simple Haynes or Chilton's manual can guide you through the steps and provide torque specs and what not.
Asthmatic is an understatement for those heads. A 408 needs a lot more air than a 302, about 30% more just as a beginning.
Find a set of aftermarket heads. Save up for them. Trade, barter whatever, just don't waste the time on 302 heads
What size tire are you planning on running with that 10.5 rim? I'm going to have to say that you will have rubbing and that you will be rolling the fender lip as well.
Leave it to a pro or be prepared to do a lot of research. I don't recommend DIY tuning to novices. They usually end up going to a pro in the long run anyway.
Check the axle tag. As I understand it, 3.27's were an option on automatic equipped Mustangs as well. But, like you, I haven't heard of 3.27's as a 5 speed option.
The other thing you can do is spin the tires and count the number of revolutions that the driveshaft makes. If it spins about 3...
You NEED to run an aftermarket brake proportioning valve. Your best bet would be to gut and plug the factory unit and install and install an inline unit on the rear line.
http://svo73mm.cjb.net/
King Cobra. I have some guys in my club that have had some bad luck with SPEC. They were hit and miss. The ones that got good ones swear by them, the ones that kept having issues with noise and chatter just swear at them
I'm guessing a pinion bearing problem. Sometimes gear installers get the preload or other settings wrong. This can wear out the pinion bearing and/or cause excessive vibration.
I once bought a used Bronco that had a loose pinion flange. Once I figured that part out I tightnened it to specs and...
For the E-brake cables, the 87-92 cars will use the (2) FMS M-2809-A cables. The 93 model year cars will use the 93 Cobra cables (F3ZZ-2A635-A). You will also need an adjustable center cable; (1) FMS M-2810A
I installed that kit last year on a freshened up stock block (rings, bearings). With full accessories and full smog I was able to pull 311 rwhp/ 337 rwtq on a Mustang Dyno with an SCT tune.
Very streetable, very fun. I would recommend this to anyone that wants to add power on a budget.
You have to be a lot more specific than that. What conversion was done? It depends on what calipers are on the car mostly. The common conversion with factory Ford pieces would allow you to use 93 Cobra cables. Assuming that your car is a 93. Other years require a FRPP only cable.
Do you know...
The starter is working just fine. Changing it out will not help you. Did you touch any other wiring off the solenoid? It sounds like you may have an issue there, but the starter is working the way it's supposed to. Look elsewhere.