Test the new yoke out with the correct seal before buying it just in case. And testing it shouldn't be an issue. All they have to do is tear open a kit and pull the seal out lol
I ran into the same issue. So I went to a tall style cover. Then had to get an intake spacer, then a throttle body spacer just to get my linkage off the valve cover. Shoulda just ran a thick gasket lmao.
I have absolutely no clue what this is off of. Someone told me it came off a 12 liter Cummins. But I'm not a diesel guy, so I didn't even know there were 12l Cummins engines.
Yeah you have to take the drum off and pull the cable off the shoe and then pinch the little fingers on the cable end to push it through the plate. It's not hard, if you can swap a whole rear end this won't be an issue to you
I wish I had kept up with this thread better because I could have saved you the hassle of learning the hard way your flex plate wouldn't work.
I plan on doing this in my '84 F150 but I'll be using a 4R70W from behind a 302 Explorer/Mountaineer. Can you tell me how much it cost between the trans...
^ that's what I'd do. Don't have to take any panels off inside the car or anything. Just jump the solenoid, the small top pin to the big pin with the red wire going to it. Simple as that lol
Here's the first 3 things you should do
1 - Get trans looked at by a professional (and rebuilt if need be)
2 - Convert to mass air
3 - throw some 4.10's in that b*tch to make it fun
All that money and still running a 2G alt. You sir have bigger balls than I do. I'd be afraid after all that money spent on a nice engine, the alt would burn the car to the ground :lol:
Lmfao. My dad swapped an 88 into his '96, and that's how he taught me to do this :lol:
In his defense, he didn't know the SN rears were wider, and his car was originally a V6 so he didn't have the SN 8.8 to start with
I've always thought the fox was easy as hell in the trans department. But I do make my living off R&R work on transmissions, so yeah. I've seen some sh*t lol