4v head swap would require the heads, intake, cam covers, wireing harness, new headers/manifolds, TB, injectors, Etc.....Its not really worth the trouble of gathering all the parts.....just buy whole the 4v motor......
Dave
the only reason you might lose some gas milage is because you allways want to put your foot in it.....other than that you should get about the same MPG.......and you will smile big for the next week.....
Dave
Why would you beable to tune as many cars as you want?........so everyone in the country can throw in a penny to by one Predator and ship it to every stang owner in the world to tune their car......yeah they would make alot of money that way........
Dave
agreed.......no back pressure on these stangs equal zero power......but with a little back pressure you get the most power.......Ive got O/R X with flowmasters and dumps......as long as you have some sort of mufflers you will have enough back pressure to make good power....
Dont think so...
Yeah I usally shift at about 2700-3300 in casual driving......atleast twice a day I will run it through 1st 2nd and 3rd shifting at 5800rpm .......then ill race a few people......If youve never ran it beyond 3k I say your missin out...
Dave
Any TB would be worthless on a 96 GT. Even on my 99 Gt the TB didnt do anything.....If he Insists on getting a TB I say dont go bigger than 75mm......Personally I would save up for a Head swap...you Ask what kind of heads...The 99+ heads, cams, and intake can be bought for $400 - $500 and will...
normally I would say get the PI heads, cams, and intake. But if you wanted you could just get the PI cams and Intake, some more gear, and some sticky rubber and you should break into the 13s.......with good driving......
Dave
I had to get an adjuster for my Spec Stage 1, it was slipping a bit, so I did some adjusting and works great now.......Other than that, ive had nothing but good luck with my Spec (knock on wood).......I hear Mcleod makes a good clutch also.......
Dave