Search results

  1. B

    Removing AC lines... Help...

    I believe they are all garter-spring type connectors except for the two lines going on the compressor which is held by a single bolt and sealed with o-rings... You can buy tools to disconnect the connectors at auto-zone, advanced, etc. They snap around the hose and slide into the connector...
  2. B

    valve stem seal?

    as the motor is slowing down, you have a high engine vacuum. Certainly sounds like seals on the intake valves leaking... Isn't going to be oil on the cylinder walls getting by the rings most likely, given your description.
  3. B

    96 GT, front hub question - roaring

    I'd check front brake pads. I have seen them crack, and they can make an ungodly roaring when you get on the brakes and heat them up...
  4. B

    valve stem seal?

    Head does not need to come off. Here's the procedure... 1. position #1 at TDC, and use air pressure thru the spark plug hole. 30-40psi will hold the vavle closed just fine. There is a special tool you can use and avoid removing the camshaft completely. It uses the cam as a fulcrum point...
  5. B

    valve stem seal?

    A common test is to run on the highway, remove foot from accelerator which produces a strong vacuum in the intake. After a few seconds, punch the accelerator and see if you get a puff of blue smoke. If so, blame it on the valve seals and replace them... They can let vacuum pull oil past the...
  6. B

    AC Compressor problem. Clutch? Bearings?

    Disconnect the switch (it is on the receiver/dryer/accumulator bottle by the passenger-side firewall.) Jumper the two pins in the connector and see if the compressor runs continually. Note that you can freeze up the evaporator core since the compressor will not cycle if you do this, so I would...
  7. B

    Codes/o2 Sensors/Worries

    you might be losing your fuel pump. That will make it run lean no matter what the computer does, and it can assume that the O2 sensor is out of range although I more commonly see the usual lean bank 1 or whatever... Otherwise either a bad new O2, or a wiring chafe problem somewhere.
  8. B

    AC Compressor problem. Clutch? Bearings?

    There are several possibilities. 1. If you over-charge, the compressor can become very difficult to rotate, and it will definitely be a load on the motor, although this will also destroy the compressor if it continues for any length of time. 2. rapid cycling could be a cycling switch...
  9. B

    long tube install question?

    to get the heads off you are going to have exhaust manifolds loose anyway. I have found it easier to remove the manifold-to-hpipe bolts and pull a head out with the manifold still connected. And then put them back in the same way to avoid the clearance issues. But with LTs you are not going...
  10. B

    How to use a piston stop for TDC?

    It doesn't matter whether you move the pointer or the wheel. All you want to end up with is a degree reading of zero for TDC on #1 cylinder. Doesn't matter whether the pointer is straight up, straight down, or on either side. Just so it points to zero on the wheel...
  11. B

    new coil on plugs questions

    Do you mean (a) adding COP to a motor that doesn't have them or (b) replacing the COPs on a 4.6 with something like the MSD versions? If (b) then no, they will get you absolutely nothing. If you add a blower, and start to get misfires because the spark is too weak, then the MSD coils might...
  12. B

    long tube install question?

    That is the easiest way to install them if you are going to pull the heads anyway. Once they are out, the LTs will slip right in with lots of clearance to get them into position. Only issue is that you will probably want to remove all the exhaust manifold studs while you have the heads out...
  13. B

    How to use a piston stop for TDC?

    I agree. But rather than using a stop, I just use a dial indicator. Bring the piston to TDC and zero the dial indicator. Turn the motor counter-clockwise until the dial indicator reads some easy-to-repeat value (say .05 or whatever). Mark the degree wheel at the TDC mark. Now rotate the...
  14. B

    Air Conditioning works but..

    First, the normal low pressure side on a mustang is 22-35 psi. 22 when the compressor is on, interior cool, air on recirc, fan on low. Once it reaches around 22 psi the compressor will kick off (the cycling switch does this). No normal can of freon has 25psi of pressure. If it is...
  15. B

    A/C question

    "adding charge" is a long way from "recharging". If you open the system to replace any component that will vent freon, then you need to evacuate the system to dry up any possible moisture contamination that might have entered the system. Moisture will freeze at the orifice tube and restrict...
  16. B

    Air Conditioning works but..

    You charge thru the low-pressure port on your car's A/C system, but the compressor needs to be running. Often, I have jumpered the cycling switch connector so that the compressor will run long enough to drop the low-pressure side enough to take freon... 25psi sounds mighty low for a 30 pound...
  17. B

    Air Conditioning works but..

    PCM makes the decision, but uses a relay in the CCRM to turn the compressor off if it chooses. The relay is normally closed, but the PCM can energize the coil and open the circuit. I still believe it is a charge problem. More air thru the condensor makes it more efficient, and as it gets...
  18. B

    which wire is tach signal wire

    The problem is that the normal tach expects a pulse per spark, which at 5,000 RPM turns into 40,000 pulses per minute. The mustang doesn't do that, it gives one pulse per 8 sparks, which means you need an adapter to translate between the two numbers. Ours is under the hood, on the cowl on the...
  19. B

    fuel pressure sender wiring ?

    normal would be red = +12, black = ground, purple = switched +12, grey is sensor input. But nothing says they follow normal color coding of course...
  20. B

    Fuel Pressure never changes...

    Forget that reading and hook a gauge to the valve / connector on the fuel rail and measure the pressure _there_. If you unhook the vacuum to the regulator the pressure ought to increase. The exact values depend on your vehicle specifics, but this is the way to check fuel pressure, not thru the...
Top Bottom
Back
Forums
Menu