I think what your calling the meter block is the starter solenoid on the right fender.
That said, the hot wire from the battery goes to the solenoid large stud and the other side large stud goes to the starter. The one small stud in the front of solenoid is the start wire from you ignition...
YOU MUST run a new 12 volt wire from your ignition switch (ON) to the
Pertrinix red wire for it to work properly. Early mustangs have a resistance wire in the dash wiring to bring the voltage down to about 7 volts, this is for POINTS ignition only. If you update your distibutor to a...
NO.
A HEI system uses full voltage, if you used the old wires to hook up your coil then you have low spart output and are getting nothing from that upgrade to HEI.
You need to run a wire from your ignition switch ON to the coil or if you have like a MSD setup follow the instructions but you...
I did it in my convert. I have the stock pony interior and took the lower frame apart and cut and welded it to be lower, got like a inch, then went to summit and bought seat tracks, these tracks worked well as they made the seats move back another 2 inches. I also modified the ( fore and aft...
That bezel is what I have in my stang, I like it. go to
www.tpigauges and look around as they have many options.
I bought mine off Ebay as a kit, bezel, TPI gauges and wiring.
One thing about the bezel you must know, there is a left and right turn signal HOLES in bezel but no lights, YOU...
Early mustangs used a ballast wire or sometimes called a resistance wire to lower the voltage to the coil to about 8 volts, this protected the points from burning and getting a (pit) dug into them, other manufactures used a ballast resistor, a small ceramic part that lowers the voltage to...
Just to get the engine started all you need is a hot wire from the battery to the coil + and assuming you have a points type distributor dont run it to long or you will burn up the points, you could run a ballast resister to bring the volts down to about 8, then just jump the starter relay on...
Wow what a show. lots of great cars at this show,
did you go.. I took my 65 stang and after moving me around to 3 different class's I Won 1st place in the legal street machine class, woohoo.
NOTICE!!!!! When you use a sealant on the threads and you should, be sure its (thread sealant) and not thread locker!
do not use thread tape which is not recomended for any kind of sensor because it will clog up the sensor and maybe something worse.
When you use a sealer, start...
go here
http://www.transmissioncenter.org/classic_mustang_to_aod_conversion.htm
Also just search... AOD swap,,,, and,,,, Classic AOD swap ,,,,and get lots of hits.
I hate to disagree with the last 2 but I have a aluminum in my last stang and beat the crap out of it, Think about it , if you leaving the drags at the lights at 8000 rpms and with 500 + hp and a hole shot and slicks at 140 mph doesnt break it, then street tires and a moderate beat wont do...
If you didnt remove the pinion housing or change gears then thats an easy one.
Just install a new crush spacer and install the yoke, then tighten the nut to
175 ft-lbs . turn yoke as your tightening the nut to seat the bearing. DO NOT EXCEED 175 ft-lbs at this time, then take a inch lb torque...
The spring like wire should hold the needle in place and not push or pull on it. as for fuel pressure on a stock carb it should not be more than 5 psi and if using a stock mechanical pump then you dont have to worry about that.
If the fuel comes out the air bleeds on the top of carb as soon as...
if your running a roller cam then run a steel gear. if a hyd cam then a cast gear will be what you want. in your pic you have a cast gear as D.Hearne has said.
it looks a little worn to me but (my eyes are 48 years old) so I would change it to match your new cam as I always change the dist gear...
If fluid come out the vent then the fluid is getting aeration or foaming some people call it. Aeration come from over filling, improper fluid, or by water from the cooling system getting in trany fluid, also foaming can be caused by the pump sucking air instead of fluid, this is caused by a...
DID you put the seat in with the needle and the little spring like wire.
If so adjust the float level by bending the tab the needle rest on. There should be specs for this in your instructions, also check the float, shake it to see if it has fuel in the float, if it does then you need a new one
WELL I took it out again followed all your steps and hints.
the seal still looked new, it should be, less thst 30 miles on it.
I did notice that the oil pan and engine sit at a tilt towards the rear of car, I think all mustang engines do this but anyhow could all the oil be at the rear seal...
I need mental help now, this is the 3rd time this season I replace the rear oil seal and im loosing it:nonono:
This is a 2 piece seal with a new crank, bearings and everything else. I installed it correctly and sealed the ends and block to cap surfaces and it still leaks 3 fricken times...