Take apart the pad, grease all metal the metal surfaces and put it back together, do the clips and backs of the pads and such. Dont need much, don't want any on the brake surface. Sounds like he pads might be riding against the rotor. Check to make sure the caliper isn't seized and not fully...
Just spraying it on won't do much. When I have to strip something at work, I put the stuff on the part, then put it in a plastic bag with the aircraft remover. The stuff works twice as fast and twice as affective. The aircraft paint removed didn't even scratch my BBS wheel finish when left out...
On the compression note, its not bad. The piston dish on the aluminator I got is 13.5cc. Bumps it up into the high 9.8:1 or so. And you wouldn't get a fully forged alumiumn motor from livernoise for 4'gs shipped in less then a week either. Also, there is a guy putting down more then 1Kwhp in...
I went with the Aluminator. I had it in 5 days for ordering it. I got it for $4000 shipped. You really notice a difference with the lose of 75lbs of the nose of the car.
I think it depends on the car as far as being emotionally attached. I bought my car from the original owner, my best bud in navy. I was the god father to that car. I watched him do the bolt on thing, I was there when he installed the blower, got it tuned, I wrenched on it with him. He got tired...
After putting a new motor in my car, my wife told me I can never get rid of my car. Its part of my identity. Who I am. I have done so much work and put so much time, I feel like it will never end. But when I get on it, I feel free and I forget the heartache that comes with wrenching on your own...
I think the 4 link works well when the links are parallel to the chassis, not inverted as in our cars. Watts links arn't that much harder to install then a panhard bar. At least the kits I have looked at.
Watts links FTW, panhard bars are a step in the right direction, but if you really want to keep the axle from moving side to side, you would drop a watts link. Panhard bars move in somewhat of a radius. Watts link only allow movement up and down.
Check this to see what I mean...
I had the MACs, they will scrape on stuff, or atleast your mid pipe will. My new Pypes stuff, fit well. Had to clearance around the starter and transmission bellhousing. But that was all. I was able to drop the motor in with them attached.