Thanks for the compliment, but you've got the wrong guy. This is what I'm rockin' on mine. I'll bet you can find these or similar wheels quite a bit cheaper now than when I bought them. The 18" saleens look good on certain cars as well. Just giving you a couple more ideas to consider other...
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It is very simple. Just make sure you get another upper-to-lower gasket before you start the job. Also make sure to scrape/clean both intake mating surfaces very well before putting it back together. First, pull the intake ducting off of your throttle body, and either unbolt the throttle...
Did the same, and my posi works flawlessly. I thought you were going to go with the alternate stacking order after the last thread you posted? Like EMW150 said, you will need to put progressively smaller shims in until it goes back together. Try to shim it as tight as possible. Are you...
We didn't even bother to pull a head, but I'm pretty sure it's a safe bet that some valves crunched. Valvecovers had not been off it up until this point. The motor is going to go to a local machine shop for a rebuild if it's worth saving (none of us have time/mod motor knowledge) so we'll see...
I know for a fact that the blocks they use for the 5.0/302 based motors are nothing more than stock blocks with some DSS script engraved in them.......I can't imagine the 351's are any different.
Can you take a picture of the trans from under the car? Would help a lot.
Should have no issues...
Have a friend that has an '02 F150 pickup with a 5.4 and about 130K miles on it. Somehow, one of the cam gears sheared/spun off the cam. With the valve cover removed, you can see it just hanging off the edge of the cam. Is this at all a common issue with mod motors? Any ideas what would...
If you can shift into any gear without grinding, the clutch probably is not the issue. I wonder if the ECU is struggling a bit. Have a friend you could borrow an ECU from for testing purposes?
If you're making good oil pressure, just do the h/c/i and don't worry. As for parts selection........there's a lot. You can save a lot of money buying non-wear items like an intake, throttle body, MAF, cam, etc. used so keep that in mind.
You can basically run a tape between the front and rear subframes and measure. Should have at least a 6-8" overlap on both the front and back subframes. The summit brand subframe connectors on my old car were nothing more than heavy square stock with a slight bend to it.
Whatever you do...
http://www.bmcforums.com/showthread.php?p=1416589
There's a decent link if you want to try the posi rebuild yourself. What most will do when rebuilding, is to remove a steel plate from the rebuild kit, and replace it with the best used clutch disc from your carrier. The factory stacking...
If it's clean, and a 5-speed, runs and drives well, has a nice interior, and is really clean, he's in the ballpark. Offer $5,500-$5,800 and see what happens :shrug:
The 'vert mounts drop your engine in the engine compartment a little bit for hood clearance, better center of gravity.........and from what I've read they were just a better design in general.
Can't offer any real good advice, but I know the '91 wiring harnesses are oddballs; different than all the others. Not sure if this translates over to the ECU or not.