+1 on the 47lb injectors
http://kennebell.net/products/supercharger-kits/mustang/kenne-bell-supercharger-kit-mustang-46-26-28-1996-2004/
Kenne bell’s most popular choice is the 2.1L. If the sky is the limit - check out their 2.6 and 2.8L options too.
Overall there is no “bad choice”...
I went with 47lb injectors because they support in to the low 500rwhp range on stock fuel pressure: https://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-ev6-47-injectors.html
I went with the TU229HP fuel pump. Direct drop in. For your year you’ll have to check your VIN - the TU228 might match your VIN...
Naturally aspirated you’ll need upgrades to your intake, exhaust, heads, and cams (lots of work).
I’d skip all that. There are three easier options: nitrous, supercharger, or turbocharger. Any of those three would put you in your desired range.
I am running the polished V3 tuner kit. https://www.americanmuscle.com/vortech-v3-sitrim-supercharger-tuner-kit-polished-9904-gt.html
I like the V3 si trim- has its own oil vs having to tap the engine’s oil pan and is a good middle of the road supercharger (good price and good powerband)...
Back when I made 290rwhp with full boltons and cams I upgraded to 24lb injectors and found the injector duty cycle to be “just right”. Duty cycle had some buffer, remaining well below 90%.
Your setup seems like it is in the same ballpark. The 19’s don’t provide much buffer or any buffer...
With your current mods you are probably in the 245-255rwhp range. To get to 320-350rwhp naturally aspirated it is going to take more than mild upgrades to get there unfortunately. You are going to need to get some head work (or trickflow heads), aggressive cams (“stage 2 or higher”), and...
There are tons of considerations for spring rates and shocks with coil overs. I am currently saving up for a set of Maximum motor sports coil overs. Riding around like a pogo stick comes from overly hard shocks (done that with adjustable shocks before) or too high a spring rate for the type of...
Tires for 17” rims are generally much cheaper. Unless you really like the look of 18” rims I would save on the weight and cost by staying 17”. Good to hear that your have 17x9’s. I have found that a 275 wide tire is a good fit and that a better rubber will get what you want until you go to...
Traction is not just about tire width. Getting a quality summer tire and suspension are important too.
Nitto 555’s are popular for your power level. Offers an affordable high performance summer tire at a good price point. I upgraded to 17x9” rims and put 275/40/17 nittos on with great...
You have either an upgraded fuel pump or a boost-a-pump setup to keep up with your current power level.
Adding more fuel capacity will only add performance if you increase the air flow (more boost). Stock internals (pistons and rods) can support your current power level but may struggle with...
MAF- talk with your tuner and find out what they prefer. My tuner preferred a SCT MAF - perfect for my blow thru set up (MAF is just before the TB).
Intercooler - get a higher quality intercooler like a tredstone or mishimoto. Get a big one, no need to skimp out. Expect that you will need a...
Different long tubes allow better access to your transmission. BBKs require a much more difficult process.
My MAC LTs allow enough space to access what you need.
To the OP - I strongly recommend LTs over shorties (unless long term you plan to get a turbo kit installed). Shorties don’t give...
Sounds different. Has a smooth sound with no drone. YouTube has tons of borla sound clips for our years. I love my Borlas over my previous flowmasters.
View: https://youtu.be/JIOsOlMcgXY
View: https://youtu.be/XG7VRHNgxbU
For stock style spring locations the best ride quality IMO are the bilsteins https://www.maximummotorsports.com/1987-04-Bilstein-HD-series-Damper-Package-solid-axle-Mustang-P1018.aspx
If you are looking to eventually upgrade to coil overs I would get a set ready for that upgrade like these...
Since you already have bought the CAI and tuner - might as well put them on.
Limiting yourself to NA options is going to severely limit your power gain options, especially in CA. Everything in bolt on land is 5-10hp. :( Hope you change your mind and start looking for a CARB approved forced...
For a NA mustang - 24lbs will cover your needs for a full boltons, cam, and heads 4.6L (low 300rwhp range)
If a power adder is in your future I would look towards 42lb injectors if your goal is under 500rwhp. My goal eventually is low 500 rwhp range so I went with 47lbs. More lbs if you want...
Those vapor valve seals are fragile. Several years ago I was inspecting mine while upgrading my fuel pump and remembered thinking that they will fall to pieces if I ever decided to install a cobra tank. 14 year old car problems. Don’t have good solutions.
Probably worth it to buy new seals...
Your alignment is probably way off. Cc plates allow you more range of motion to get back to spec.
This is an excellent cc plate: https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Mustang-Caster-Camber-Plates-1994-2004-P256.aspx
Here are their install instructions...
Those header bolts are a massive PITA to get to and the stock bolts will just loosen again. That is why nobody wants to touch them. Find a performance shop that does header installs if you need some help. Expect that it might cost you 2-3 hours in labor. Retightening the bolts is a hopeless...