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  1. T

    rough idle, losing hope.

    good luck with that...99% of the time those parts store guys are idiots.
  2. T

    Loosing power @ WOT above 3000 RPM - need help

    most codes do not cause the CEL to illuminate. Check for Codes
  3. T

    rough idle, losing hope.

    no need to pay for a scan. you can do it yourself for free, with virtually no tools. here is How to Check for Codes . good luck, let us know what codes you get.
  4. T

    n0t a mustang, but a little help needed

    not positive here, but with an advance timing light, you should set it at zero to check base timing (with vacuum line removed), and then set to that base when checking advanced timing (or zero to check total advance) with vac line attatched. is that how you did it? or did you have the light set...
  5. T

    I was Wrong about EGR and Part Throttle Detonation

    as i understand it, the resistor tells the ECM that the EGR is closed, so it does not use the EGR fuel/timing. but, then how does it avoid a "valve opening not detected" code 33? maybe it doesn't. with the vacuum line dettatched from my egr valve i have a KOER 33...but no CEL. yep, according to...
  6. T

    I was Wrong about EGR and Part Throttle Detonation

    like you said, the adjustment made no difference, only switching to a different sensor did. maybe the spare sensor was slow to react or had some other problem, while still measuring within spec?:shrug: if the 34 was a CM code, then i dont think the EGR related fuel and timing adjustments are...
  7. T

    I was Wrong about EGR and Part Throttle Detonation

    if any EGR code is present (possibly excluding CM codes:shrug: ) the ECM "knows" that the EGR is missing/disabled. for those who have experienced part-throttle pinging, i would suspect that their tuning (timing) was on the verge of detonation before the EGR delete, or that there were other...
  8. T

    I was Wrong about EGR and Part Throttle Detonation

    great info. that GUFB document is good stuff, albeit lengthy. nice summarization of the EGR info :nice:
  9. T

    86-88 GT Fuel Pressure Regulator Location?

    mounted to the fuel rail on the back side of the intake manifold, behind the egr valve with a vacuum line attatched to it
  10. T

    Map sensor issues

    :nice:
  11. T

    Map sensor issues

    i think it should be fine as long as you hook up the vacuum line. what you got was a BAP from a mass air car. your car came with a MAP but i think they are interchangeable
  12. T

    Code 31 (EVP) = Roller Coaster Idle?

    when i did my FPR, my roaming idle went away, not because of the FPR but because of the new gaskets and better seal on the intake manifold. i guess i had a vacuum leak:shrug: . i hope you have the same results, good luck
  13. T

    If the balancer ring spins...would the engine vibrate?

    so, i guess that means its not your balancer. i'm having the same problem. currently running 24*. i think mine might actually be the balancer, because the balancer seems a bit wobbly. maybe your problem is the stator or the hall effect sensor in the distributer? you're checking timing with the...
  14. T

    1988 Ford Ranger 5.0 (1989 Mustang GT)

    yes. you can install the ACT somewhere else (intake tube or airbox). this is not ideal, but the only downside is that the ECM might advance timing a bit more and it will run slightly richer (due to the cooler reading).
  15. T

    PROBLEMS need help!!

    might want to drop the tank and fix whatever is leaking.
  16. T

    What are the best budget shocks and struts for a 88 LX?

    tokico hp
  17. T

    What size battery cables? The bigger, the better?

    found this here http://www.my5oh.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=95
  18. T

    Think my clutch cable is bad...how to replace?

    yeah, i suppose i was thinking of the adjustable ones or something. FWIW they do seem to think the universal ones are better "This universal cable will provide more header clearance, and therefore even better heat protection, than any other cable we have found, including the 5.0 liter engine...
  19. T

    Think my clutch cable is bad...how to replace?

    the ford oem one that is sold everywhere, is crap. do yourself a favor, get the Maximum Motorsports one. this page explains why. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/cq.asp#cables
  20. T

    Think my clutch cable is bad...how to replace?

    ditto, the MM cable is the only way to go. much much better quality than all the others. lighter pedal feel too -one reason people break cables in just a few minutes, is because of the sharp edges on the billet quadrants. always a good idea to file those down
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