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  1. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    No sir. I’m still trying to attain that. I pulled the codes on the replacement computer today. I get the same ones. So, apparently it’s not the computer.
  2. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    The “67” code is the Neutral Start Switch. It actually has nothing to do with keeping the car from starting when the clutch isn’t engaged. It has more to do with the load on the engine when coasting down to a stop. Without it, the engine revs-up to keep the engine from stalling at low rpm’s. It...
  3. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    Engine on? There IS no engine on. Thats the purpose of this post. It will not idle on its own. At all. I have to modulate the accelerator just to get it to stay running. So, no, all of the codes I have are KOEO as that’s the only state that’s anywhere near reliable. As far as setting the TPS...
  4. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    Nope. I swapped the 19# injectors AND the stock MAF that's made to work with them. I figure putting everything I can back to "stock" is a good baseline for the diagnostic process. (I should have never thought I could start with bigger injectors and aftermarket MAF to begin with.) I can switch...
  5. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    Well, it won’t idle enough to set base idle. FP is 38psi. Timing is set “straight-up with the #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke and the rotor pointed directly at the contact for the #1 plug wire. That should at least get it close enough to start. I have discovered the checklist thread...
  6. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    Replaced the BP Sensor and NO MORE CODE 22. But it will still barely idle. BP Sensor signal wire still reads 2.69v. On to the next thing, I guess.
  7. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    I fixed the wiring and now both of the BP sensors read 2.69 and 2.66 V respectively. Seems to be a BP sensor, now.
  8. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    On THIS test, it measures 10.0 ohms. The book tells me that if it’s over 5 ohms to repair “opens” in the circuit. Be back soon…
  9. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    I did this test today. All well above 10k ohms. I guess that rules out the harness.
  10. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    This is another resource I’m using. All the way down to page 33 it starts getting into needing the breakout box...
  11. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    Using the Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control book, it says to test VREF to SIG RTN. Should yield between 4-6vdc. I had 6vdc. The next test is from BP SIG (center wire) to negative batt post. Should read between 4-6vdc. I measured 2.6vdc on BOTH BP sensors that I have. The book...
  12. reddy351

    For those that have deleted their EGR valve

    Awesome. Thank you!
  13. reddy351

    For those that have deleted their EGR valve

    "And (4) 75 Ω 3-Watt resistor for the EVR, CANP, TAB & TAD solenoids and install one at each solenoid plug as shown below." What is an EVR? Is it just another term for the EGR valve? Could be a "fat finger" and EGR was the intended abbreviation? Yes, I know I'm dredging up an old thread. PS...
  14. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    One was in the car and was operational just a few weeks before the swap. (As mentioned, it’s technically not the “correct” calibration code but I’m told “they’re all the same”.) The other was a “known good” used part that was purchased from an eBay vendor and IS the correct calibration code...
  15. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    That’s understood. That’s why I put quotation marks around it.
  16. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    And then simple continuity from the “MAP” in the drawing down to pin 45 on the computer? Got it. Will return shortly. Edit: With the key on and the BAP socket disconnected, I have 6v between vRef and RTN. When I put the probe from my meter in the socket and probe pin45 on the computer (key...
  17. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    So, is Sig RTN the “ground” for the sensor?
  18. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    Mine has the little plastic piece that keeps a hose from being connected. There was not one connected in the previous application, so I figured it would work. The problem is that now, even with the battery disconnected for a couple of hours, it still has the code for the BAP. Even after I...
  19. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    Yes. It is not connected to the manifold in any way. According to the installation manual, the A9L requires the E7EF-12A644-A2A sensor. Is that not correct? When did Ford stop using this type of sensor?
  20. reddy351

    Resolved Cranks but still doesn’t start. Ran through the checklist and still doesn’t start.

    What do you mean? It’s just plugged-in. The engine harness is a brand new Painless standalone one.
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