It's a three clown job: one clown to insert the tool and compress the spring, and one clown to pull the coupling apart when the tool is properly inserted. The third clown gets gas squirted in his face because none of the clowns thought to bleed off the fuel pressure.
LOL
Make sure you get the four rail bolts back in good also, no matter how you go about it. I left one out once, and my rail popped off, setting my engine ablaze. BTW see my post on corral.net about the tools. Good luck.
Pedestals
I have broken many of the stock bolts off in the pedestals on my old GT40 heads. I ended up tapping the 5/16 holes out to 3/8 and machining the rockers out for socket head cap screws. Never broke another.
Wassup with the classifeds? I keep getting pulled into some dude's stuff, not a bunch of items? Also getting popups at www.stangnet.com . Has this site been hacked, or is my 25 years of PC experience useless.
May not open at all, may open when the latent temp reaches 180.. which would take alot longer. Back to the topic, the best way to burp it is like said, run the head wide open with the cap off until it heats up, then add coolant, close it up, and go.
Skoobie is exact with the easiest way to do it, I've done it several times. Thing is, he said these are stainless bolts. Good luck with that one. I would recommend you grind them flat to the head first, then possible a carbide bit will get a starter hold going. If you can get one hole deep...
The rears are a breeze. Should take you no more than an hour on them. On the fronts, you may want an inner spring compressor. I couldn't even get a jack under my a-arm without the springs compressed. They were so tall that they kept the a-arm vertical. Fronts are no 'easy' job, but do-able...