Yeap, I'm a fan of your car too. If you're ever serious about the grille insert, let me know and I'll paint it for you for cheap. If I remember right, you live pretty close to me. I'd love to see your car in person anyways.
Plug the line going to the manifold at the manifold with a vacuum cap. Cut the other line under the car. I chose the cut it where it passes behind the inner fenderwell so it could not be seen. Leave this line open as your vent for the tank. Unplug the canister valve and throw it away...
From someone who's done this job, I think it looks great. The beauty of smoothing the engine bay on a fox is no two people do it the same. I did mine different, but that doesn't make yours wrong or ugly.
Also, I think it's cool you're doing all this on a Cobra that was once in many...
Yeap, what he ^ said. You could also adjust them running since the car now runs for you. If you search my username you'll find a few posts where I suggested this and the details.
Yeap - I've had great experiences as well. I called one time with some odd-ball question and the tech guy actually put me on hold, went and pulled a part from their warehouse and took measurements for me over the phone. They are top notch.
Wow, that looks great. The clarity of the clear shows that they have some experience. I'm surprised they left so much black uncovered when painting the gold. My experience with stripes or two toning is that if you don't completely cover the first color, you'll get some of the second color on...
Ha - you'd be surprised. I had mine set at zero lash plus 1/2 turn (engine off) and when I went and adjusted them with the engine running, I had to take 1/4 to 3/8 of a turn OUT of each one. Hydraulic lifters do not need very much preload to run without sounding like a chatter box. Give it a...
Man, I was in your exact situation over the winter (it was my first time doing stud mount rockers). The first time I had two valves hanging open, the second time I had ticking. Here's the best advice I have:
If you have an extra valve cover (an old stock one would be perfect) cut off the...
I'm running B-springs and I'm very happy with the ride and stance. Struts are KYB-GR2's. I do not have any of the above mentioned suspension components and my alignment is fine. Fine a good alignment shop that will slot strut holes for you - it will save you some $$.
Wow - very interesting post. About 4 years ago I ordered a Mach 1 hood from them for my T-bird SC. The hood actually had "Cervini's" embossed into the underside of the it. I just figured they were affiliated with Cervini's and went on about my business.
My car was black, and the hood...
E cam: More lift, less duration
B cam: Less lift, more duration
Without a software program to run through the kinematics of the system, you need to check it. Simple as that. Clay is two bucks and it will take you 20 minutes.
No - the B has less lift, but more duration. Remember, max lift is not what affects P-V clearance the most, it's the total cam profile. Think about it as which cam is quicker to get out of the way.
Yeah - what they said. If your interested in some dyno numbers with a ported GT-40 style (for if and when you upgrade heads), see my sig.
BTW - where at in Ohio?
FWIW - I run almost that setup (B instead of E). I clayed mine during the install and had a 1/4 inch of clearance. I would expect you to be alright, but since it only takes another 20 minutes, clay to be sure :nice:
You might want to consider the o-ringed version of the TW heads and then fel-pro's loc-wire head gaskets if you are thinking about juice or boost later on.
Also, FWIW - I'm running the B-cam with 1.72's and low end is not a problem :)