I don't remember those, from what I remember that type of filter screwed directly into the carb. I wonder what it's purpose was? Can you take the guts out of it and just use it as a fitting? Unless it's a pressure regulator ? I'd gut it and see how it runs.
Little background would help, is this your daily driver, did you just get it, did you just do some work to it, does it happen with a full tank? What do you mean by stalls, dies completely? Does it skip for a bit before it dies? Then what happens?
It will definitely be fun with the 390. I had a '69 Mach with the 428, had a blast with it, just could never get it to hook up good off the line. But it was damn right nasty once you got it going 30.:) Oh, and you couldn't breath on the throttle in the rain or she'd turn around and head home.:cool:
In stock form, you can boil the tires off a 68 Mustang with a 200 six. Now add a couple hundred HP and a few hundred pounds to the nose and it will melt tires by breathing on the pedal. So it all depends on what you are after. Ideally that car should have a built 289-351 windsor, for FUN the 390...
You have to be a tdc on the compression stroke. pull #1 plug, put your finger in the plug hole, tap the key until it blows your finger out, then slowly rotate til your at tdc. Then after she starts, put the timing light on it.
I'm attempting to do my '66 F-100 project but my wife keeps getting in the way. I may have to shoot her to get back to it.:) Hope you get off to a better start than me.
Never thought the bearing type perches were a good idea, the originals with the brass bushings were probably a much better idea. Needle bearings need a lot of movement to remain lubricated, were a bushing can stay in one place and still function as a bearing surface. Just my 2 cents.
Mileage has more to do with how you drive than any other factor. I could get 20 mpg taking it easy with my '70 ragtop with a 351 and 3.00 rear gears, but I usually got 15.
You need a spring compressor to put the springs in. And there is no way of telling how the springs will act on the car until they are installed and driven. If you want the front lowered an inch, use the ones they are sending you, but you will need a spring compressor to put them in. If you don't...
You didn't say what was wrong with the first set, and why do you think CJ is going to send you the wrong set? And what do you think is going to be wrong with them? And what are you trying to accomplish?
drive it again, buy a simple spark tester that plugs into the spark plug wire, when it dies do 2 things. Check for spark at the plug, and see if the coil is very hot. Spark tester will tell you if it is a fuel or a spark problem before you start throwing parts at it. And a bad coil will...
Have the drum turned. You may have bent it when you did the bearings. And it will tell you if it is bent as soon as they put it on the brake lathe. If it isn't bent , buy a new one anyway, if the problem followed the drum, the drum is the problem.
It gets worse every year too, used to be if you sold a line of product you would educate yourself on that product line, now a days it's just a box. And around here it is just as bad at the parts stores. We only have 1 store left that isn't a chain sell the air fresheners type of store. And that...
Well the '69 coupe I did cost me about 10K in parts and supplies and the squirt, and it was in far worse shape than that. I did full floors and both rear quarters and one fender.. And from what I've seen the parts prices haven't gone up much in the last 10 years, however I did all the work...