1 Line Lock install question:

That is it. You will need a flaring tool to flare the end you cut. Other then that its a sinch. cut it, flare it, bleed the front brakes, hook up the switch then smoke the tires till they blow.

bayellowstang said:

That is it. You will need a flaring tool to flare the end you cut. Other then that its a sinch. cut it, flare it, bleed the front brakes, hook up the switch then smoke the tires till they blow.

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Exactly dude !!

BlueOvalStangGT said:

What the hell were all these rumurs of line locks being a pain in the ass to install then??

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Its when you have ABS that people start to freak out cause apparently you need 2 linelocks and you need to install it directky to the ABS unit, etc. But is all a big bunch of cause I have ABS and look at how I installed mine. Pretty simple. Most people install them that way, ABS or not and I've never heard any horror stories about it.

Totally agree with Stangfreak.... BS from what I can tell.

I bought a Hurst Line lock a couple of months ago and I still have a picture of Stangfreak95's install hanging on my garage wall as a reference. I plan on following his exact line routing. Probably during my four day 4th weekend I may install, or the next weekend.

I've been reading the same hype about ABS being a pain. I contacted Hurst and they gave me the party line "we do not support interconnection with ABS on Ford Mustangs". Technically they are correct, because the fittings right off the ABS box are unique, although some have figured out how to connect here using certain brake line adapters and two line lock units. Waste of money in my opinion, but whatever works for some. I am planning to install a single unit, like my Northern friend has in thread image.

There is no technical reason why Stangfreaks setup shouldn't work. The power assisted brake master cylinder is the same for both ABS and non-ABS from a physical perspective and so is the "Brake Pressure Control Valve". Or at least it's nearly identical (if not completely with the acception of one minor difference). On non-ABS, the left and rights have separate outlets on the BPCV. On ABS, they have a single outlet to the front, which connects to the ABS unit, which then feeds two separate lines to the wheels. Both cars use two inlets, one for Front and one for Back.

By putting the solenoid between the master cylinder and the front inlet, Stangfreak95's setup works the same as if you were holding the brake down at a stop sign. This is effectively bypassing any ABS control, because you would only enable the line lock at "dead-stop". The computer is not going to try to compensate for decelaration when you are at a "dead-stop".

I cannot figure out why so many are bugging out about ABS and line locks on the forums. Hurst has to say they cannot do it for legal reasons, not for any other reason.

If you pop the clutch and brake quickly on an ABS mustang the ABS doesn't throttle the brakes like it would under a rapid deceleration. Just try it and you will agree. I wouldn't be able to smoke my tires today, like I do, if it that were the case. The line lock is simply going to make my job a little easier.

If I am wrong and my setup doesn't work like Stangfreaks, I'll be the first to admit it, but there is no technical reason why is shouldn't. I'll try to follow-up on this thread after I install it. I really need to do my clutch first though.

Is Hurst a good one to go with? Summit have the best price? Any other cheap but good options?

I have mine like stangfreaks. It works everytime no problems. Fushnicken is right the abs only works on decel and on the sensors.

I have heard that installing the line lock before the distubition block is NOT NHRA legal. Does anyone know if that is true or not?
I have my Hurst waiting to install, just need time to do, gonna install it like above.

No problems on mine either. I love mine. Helped my 60 ft. times b/c of being able to do a good 2nd gear burnout.

94CobraPace said:

I have heard that installing the line lock before the distubition block is NOT NHRA legal. Does anyone know if that is true or not?
I have my Hurst waiting to install, just need time to do, gonna install it like above.

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Don't know for sure, but isn't the distrubution block a proportioning valve? In which case, I would splice the line lock in after.

"Proportioning Valve
The proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes. Regardless of what type of brakes a car has, the rear brakes require less force than the front brakes.

If equal braking force were applied at all four wheels during a stop, the rear wheels would lock up before the front wheels. The proportioning valve only lets a certain portion of the pressure through to the rear wheels so that the front wheels apply more braking force."

Remember, the master cylinder feeds the proportioning valve separately with one Front brake inlet and one Rear brake inlet. All the valve does is restrict the amount of brake pressure allowed to the rear brakes relative the pressure being fully applied to the front wheels. It maintains the brake pressure ratio through restiction, not by bleeding or bypassing pressure between the front and rear brakes.

With the line lock solenoid engaged and your foot off the brake pedal, there is no longer pressure from the Master Cylinder going to the front or rear brakes to be proportioned. However, the line lock solenoid has locked the pressure in the brake line entering the front inlet of the proportioning valve. This essentially locks the brake pressure all the way through the ABS unit and out to both of the front wheels.

The Line Lock will keep pressure applied and locked to the front wheels, but it will not bleed this pressure to the rear wheels. If it did, it really would not work the way it was intended. Not sure if this is making sense.

Thanks Canada