Progress Thread "12th Owner": My '93 Notchback Progress Thread

Habu135

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I throw my .02 in there.
I’ve been collecting eBay parts and refinishing them for this swap. Between my front PBR calipers (not cobra but upgrade nonetheless), and my spindles, I’m in for $215 from ebay, and a few more dollars for pistons, seals, and caliper to spindle bolts. Another $70 for brand new hubs. So call it $300. I also got a 1”bore MC from an older model Lincoln for $25. (hoping this works). Still need the booster.
I was real close to buying that rear drum axle swap off LMR. I hate these wheels and can’t wait to see it the way I imagine it, with the wheels I want.
However, I am now going to continue on the disc path and do the rears too. Much like @Habu135 , I want to do this once, and do it right. I want it lowered too, so I may even wait to get those parts so I can really just do it once!
I have more parts to collect for sure, and because I’m ‘86, I need new front struts too (more money). Depending on the struts i choose, and other misc. (brake lines, booster, hardware, prop valve, etc) I’m done with the front for prob between 6 and 7 hundred. In the end, if I’m patient enough, I’ll hopefully be happy with the end result, and know I did it right. I’m watching daily for rear calipers that I can refinish, but I may end up just buying remans. We’ll see.
I guess what I’m trying to say, if you have the means, don’t skimp out. It it means waiting a bit until you do, you’ll be much happier with the car in the end. And there are definitely ways to get an upgraded setup without breaking the bank on an all inclusive kit.
In my opinion you don't need a brake booster. Throughout my brake mod project I was especially concerned about this item, but after speaking to and driving my friend's '89 notch with nearly the same brake kit I didn't see a need. My car brakes very hard and I don't see how a larger booster would help.
 
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Habu135

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I'll be getting my car tuned at Powertrain Dynamics in Huntington Beach (Surf City USA) this coming Tuesday (20 Aug). I've already swapped out my plugs to Autolite AR3924 per the tuner's suggestion. The old plugs were Motorsports, but he suggested the Autolites due to my alumimum heads. Later that day I'll be getting another aligment. Hopefully this third one will be THE one. Maximum Motorsports suggested alignment specs below:
 

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Habu135

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One thing I noticed post brake upgrade is that the new calipers and pad don't cover the entire 13" rotor -see attached screen shot. While this photo is not of my car, it is the same concept and you'll see the inner diameter (approximately 40%) of the rotor is unused in braking. Why did Ford go this way when designing this rotor and caliper assembly?
 

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Olivethefet

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Since this thing has gotten way into brakes, I'll just go ahead and ask a silly question. I hear and see a lot in regards to Wilwood Brakes for all sorts of things. Now don't take it out of contexts, I'm talking about shows and fancy YouTubers. If money isn't the issue, as some have alluded to, are their Brakes/Brakes kits really all that and a bag of chips? Just a quick glance around the internet and it looks easy enough to do, but you could be into your Brake system alone thousands of dollars! I cant afford to spend that kind of money on that aspect of my car. I am asking for purely scientific reasons. :runaway::hide:
 
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Habu135

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If money wasn't an option I would go with Baer. Not sure the difference in Wilwood versus Baer. I will mention though that I was at a car show recently and was talking to a guy with a '69 Camaro with a LS1 and full Road Course of America suspension and brake setup. He had C6 rear rotors/calipers and front C6 ZR1. He told he went with C6 brakes for the money and because they were proven. Seemed like a valid argument. I could also argue the whole keep my Chevy or Ford all Chevy or Ford. Interestingly enough, he had Raybestos pads.
 

TOOLOW91

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If money wasn't an option I would go with Baer. Not sure the difference in Wilwood versus Baer. I will mention though that I was at a car show recently and was talking to a guy with a '69 Camaro with a LS1 and full Road Course of America suspension and brake setup. He had C6 rear rotors/calipers and front C6 ZR1. He told he went with C6 brakes for the money and because they were proven. Seemed like a valid argument. I could also argue the whole keep my Chevy or Ford all Chevy or Ford. Interestingly enough, he had Raybestos pads.
Baer is the bees knees . My car will eventually be converted over to it . My buddy who is a dealer has stopped his 7 second true street car without the chute with them . They are made for heavier street cars. Small compact 4 piston caliper too . @Olivethefet

He does do discounts on systems and better deals if it’s something anyone wanted I can put you in contact with him
 

Habu135

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Baer is the bees knees . My car will eventually be converted over to it . My buddy who is a dealer has stopped his 7 second true street car without the chute with them . They are made for heavier street cars. Small compact 4 piston caliper too . @Olivethefet

He does do discounts on systems and better deals if it’s something anyone wanted I can put you in contact with him
What's your thoughts on post #263?
 

Habu135

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For anyone who is considering plunking down the $579 for a Flowmaster 3 Chamber, or what is now called "Force 2", cat back exhaust but doesn't like the word Flowmaster lazer etched on the tail pipes here is a cheaper solution. Purchase your own separate flow tubes and stainless steel tail pipes from LMR and then visit Amazon for the 3 chamber mufflers. These are the same 3 chamber mufflers you would otherwise receive in the kit and are also the updated "Delta Flow" which results in less highway drone. Total savings over buying the kit whole? Approximately $120.
 

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Habu135

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Car was tuned and dyno'd today. Boy did it need a tune! Car made 295/300 and runs/idles VERY well now.

Steve at Powertrain Dynamics in Huntington Beach did a phenomenal job. I was scheduled for 1 hour with him, but he ended up spending nearly 3 hours on the car. Despite dealing with a BBK Mass Air Flow meter that basically dumps fuel at low RPM and goes lean at high RPM he "burned" multiple tunes until he got 12.8 AF across the board. He set the adjustable fuel regulator at 42.5 psi. He also discovered the car was set at zero timing. I'm not sure how that is even possible, but he raised it to 10 degrees. He advised me to lower the rear tires to 30 pounds as the tires crown under acceleration and you loose traction on the street. I'll probably purchase one of the clear air filter covers to reduce turbulence on the face of the filter. Overall, I'm very happy with the results.
 

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Habu135

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Anyone have any leads on where to buy a clear conical air filter cover to reduce the engine bay air turbulence. I remember them being offered back in the day, but can't locate them now.
 

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lemosley1973

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Why not stick it in the fenderwell away from the heat? I saw some testing (I can't remember where) that showed how much the engine bay heat affects power.

Of course, it's a PITA to get to, but.

Nice dyno #'s, BTW.
 

Habu135

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Why not stick it in the fenderwell away from the heat? I saw some testing (I can't remember where) that showed how much the engine bay heat affects power.

Of course, it's a PITA to get to, but.

Nice dyno #'s, BTW.
I could buy a whole new setup in order to stick it in the fenderwell, but I like the filter being visible as it's part of the engine and I do know they have those "shields" somewhere.
 

Olivethefet

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Does the shield you are talking about help pull in cool air from somewhere or is it still just pulling in hot air from under the hood? My car came with a BBK cold air pipe on it, but at some point someone took off the part that goes into the fender. My air filter is just in the engine compartment now breathing hot air. At some point I'll be routing the breather back into the fender. I understand the look you're going for though.
 

Habu135

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The shield helps reduce the amount of turbulent air hitting the driver's side of the conical air filter from under the car while driving and swirling air from the manual fan. It is nothing more than a clear plastic shield, although it could be made out of anything, and surrounds the filter on the side and top.

The more you learn about these cars the more you realize that those Ford engineers got a lot right.
 

Mustang5L5

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One thing I noticed post brake upgrade is that the new calipers and pad don't cover the entire 13" rotor -see attached screen shot. While this photo is not of my car, it is the same concept and you'll see the inner diameter (approximately 40%) of the rotor is unused in braking. Why did Ford go this way when designing this rotor and caliper assembly?
Ford didn’t design it. PBR did. The only input Ford had was the spacing on the bolts to connect to the spindle.

This Caliper design was originally used with a 12” rotor in the 80s. That’s why surface coverage isn’t that great.

PBR updated the design in 1995 with the C5 style Caliper. It’s stiffer, wider to accommodate wider rotors, and had larger pad area to work with 13” rotors.

I run C6 style brakes with Baer brackets and you can see how the pad contact area is greater. It helps regulate rotor temp due to more contact area of the pad

72EFCC7B-BCDE-4DD7-82EE-FD178B0B60A6.jpeg
 

Habu135

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Ford didn’t design it. PBR did. The only input Ford had was the spacing on the bolts to connect to the spindle.

This Caliper design was originally used with a 12” rotor in the 80s. That’s why surface coverage isn’t that great.

PBR updated the design in 1995 with the C5 style Caliper. It’s stiffer, wider to accommodate wider rotors, and had larger pad area to work with 13” rotors.

I run C6 style brakes with Baer brackets and you can see how the pad contact area is greater. It helps regulate rotor temp due to more contact area of the pad

72EFCC7B-BCDE-4DD7-82EE-FD178B0B60A6.jpeg
So much good information, but I get to the end and realize I could have gone with a different approach and gotten a better result. O well.
 

Mustang5L5

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Not necessarily. On a light fox, more brake than you’ll ever need in most street driving situations
 

Habu135

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Agreed, but I'm referring to researching a modification only to find out after that a different course could have been taken resulting in a better product. I guess that's why they have updates and versions of products. Mercury, Gemini, Apollo for example.
 
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Mustang5L5

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The brackets for the “better” calipers are no longer sold. Only method to use them now is a controversial mod to the spindles.

Most companies have moved on from supporting the fox platform. S550 is where it is these days. 10 years ago you had many kits to chose from. Most are discontinued. You had the m-2300-k kit from Ford and a competeing kit from Baer that we’re great bolt in kits. Long since discontinued.

There’s are Big brake kit like the Baer 6S Kit....but they are not cheap.