"12th Owner": My '93 Notchback Progress Thread

Habu135

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Jan 10, 2019
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I throw my .02 in there.
I’ve been collecting eBay parts and refinishing them for this swap. Between my front PBR calipers (not cobra but upgrade nonetheless), and my spindles, I’m in for $215 from ebay, and a few more dollars for pistons, seals, and caliper to spindle bolts. Another $70 for brand new hubs. So call it $300. I also got a 1”bore MC from an older model Lincoln for $25. (hoping this works). Still need the booster.
I was real close to buying that rear drum axle swap off LMR. I hate these wheels and can’t wait to see it the way I imagine it, with the wheels I want.
However, I am now going to continue on the disc path and do the rears too. Much like @Habu135 , I want to do this once, and do it right. I want it lowered too, so I may even wait to get those parts so I can really just do it once!
I have more parts to collect for sure, and because I’m ‘86, I need new front struts too (more money). Depending on the struts i choose, and other misc. (brake lines, booster, hardware, prop valve, etc) I’m done with the front for prob between 6 and 7 hundred. In the end, if I’m patient enough, I’ll hopefully be happy with the end result, and know I did it right. I’m watching daily for rear calipers that I can refinish, but I may end up just buying remans. We’ll see.
I guess what I’m trying to say, if you have the means, don’t skimp out. It it means waiting a bit until you do, you’ll be much happier with the car in the end. And there are definitely ways to get an upgraded setup without breaking the bank on an all inclusive kit.
In my opinion you don't need a brake booster. Throughout my brake mod project I was especially concerned about this item, but after speaking to and driving my friend's '89 notch with nearly the same brake kit I didn't see a need. My car brakes very hard and I don't see how a larger booster would help.
 
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Habu135

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I'll be getting my car tuned at Powertrain Dynamics in Huntington Beach (Surf City USA) this coming Tuesday (20 Aug). I've already swapped out my plugs to Autolite AR3924 per the tuner's suggestion. The old plugs were Motorsports, but he suggested the Autolites due to my alumimum heads. Later that day I'll be getting another aligment. Hopefully this third one will be THE one. Maximum Motorsports suggested alignment specs below:
 

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Habu135

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One thing I noticed post brake upgrade is that the new calipers and pad don't cover the entire 13" rotor -see attached screen shot. While this photo is not of my car, it is the same concept and you'll see the inner diameter (approximately 40%) of the rotor is unused in braking. Why did Ford go this way when designing this rotor and caliper assembly?
 

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Olivethefet

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Since this thing has gotten way into brakes, I'll just go ahead and ask a silly question. I hear and see a lot in regards to Wilwood Brakes for all sorts of things. Now don't take it out of contexts, I'm talking about shows and fancy YouTubers. If money isn't the issue, as some have alluded to, are their Brakes/Brakes kits really all that and a bag of chips? Just a quick glance around the internet and it looks easy enough to do, but you could be into your Brake system alone thousands of dollars! I cant afford to spend that kind of money on that aspect of my car. I am asking for purely scientific reasons. :runaway::hide:
 
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Habu135

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If money wasn't an option I would go with Baer. Not sure the difference in Wilwood versus Baer. I will mention though that I was at a car show recently and was talking to a guy with a '69 Camaro with a LS1 and full Road Course of America suspension and brake setup. He had C6 rear rotors/calipers and front C6 ZR1. He told he went with C6 brakes for the money and because they were proven. Seemed like a valid argument. I could also argue the whole keep my Chevy or Ford all Chevy or Ford. Interestingly enough, he had Raybestos pads.
 

TOOLOW91

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If money wasn't an option I would go with Baer. Not sure the difference in Wilwood versus Baer. I will mention though that I was at a car show recently and was talking to a guy with a '69 Camaro with a LS1 and full Road Course of America suspension and brake setup. He had C6 rear rotors/calipers and front C6 ZR1. He told he went with C6 brakes for the money and because they were proven. Seemed like a valid argument. I could also argue the whole keep my Chevy or Ford all Chevy or Ford. Interestingly enough, he had Raybestos pads.
Baer is the bees knees . My car will eventually be converted over to it . My buddy who is a dealer has stopped his 7 second true street car without the chute with them . They are made for heavier street cars. Small compact 4 piston caliper too . @Olivethefet

He does do discounts on systems and better deals if it’s something anyone wanted I can put you in contact with him
 

Habu135

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California
Baer is the bees knees . My car will eventually be converted over to it . My buddy who is a dealer has stopped his 7 second true street car without the chute with them . They are made for heavier street cars. Small compact 4 piston caliper too . @Olivethefet

He does do discounts on systems and better deals if it’s something anyone wanted I can put you in contact with him
What's your thoughts on post #263?