Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

[Habu135]

I think they are comparable, but I got a number of upgraded items: Hawk brake pads, stainless steel lines all around and I didn't want the powder coated calipers (especially didn't want the "SVE" silk screen).

This mod is similar in build to my Flowmaster cat back exhaust. All new Flowmaster cat back kits come with "Flowmaster" laser etched on the tailpipes. Because I'm picky about my car having a stock appearance and my lack of a desire in advertising for some company, I source the 21/2" stainless steel tailpipes from LMR. I bought the correct Mustang 3 chambers from Amazon and flowtubes from another company and put together my own cat back kit. The price was comparable, but with no stupid "Flowmaster" etching.

 

[Habu135]

So I received the Amazon purchased rotor. Opened the box within a box within a box and lo and behold....another 14.5" rotor. Clearly AC Delco changed the part number from the '03-'04 Covra rotor to this 14.5" rotor some time ago. I'm beyond pissed off at this point.

 

[Mustang5L5]

My guess is the issue is at ACdelco's factory. Everywhere I look shows that as the correct p/n for the Cobra brakes. You received one rotor that was correct.

Obviously it's not. Do you still have the other rotor? Any lot number or date code on the package? This seems more like a manufacturer issue as they possibly incorrectly packaged the wrong rotors.

Of course, they don't provide a good way to get in contact other than an email. Last time I emailed a major manufacturer I got a response back a month later.

Return the rotors and try a thirds source...one with a good return policy. Otherwise, you might have to buy a different brand of rotor.

 

[Habu135]

I contacted the local NAPA. They have one in stock. 13", no black hat (all metallic colored). $44, but I've had enough of the mail order process at this point. I'll pick it up this afternoon and install it tonight. I have jury duty this week, you have NO IDEA!, and don't have to be in until 9:30. Alignment scheduled for 7:45am. Enough is enough.

 

[Habu135]

My guess is the issue is at ACdelco's factory. Everywhere I look shows that as the correct p/n for the Cobra brakes. You received one rotor that was correct.

Obviously it's not. Do you still have the other rotor? Any lot number or date code on the package? This seems more like a manufacturer issue as they possibly incorrectly packaged the wrong rotors.

Of course, they don't provide a good way to get in contact other than an email. Last time I emailed a major manufacturer I got a response back a month later.

Return the rotors and try a thirds source...one with a good return policy. Otherwise, you might have to buy a different brand of rotor.

Seems logical. All part numbers show "18A964A".

 

[Habu135]

NAPA came through for me. Granted it's a NAPA brand rotor, but we're talking about a block of steel (the rotor) so I think I'll be ok compared to the passenger's side AC Delco rotor.

 

[Habu135]

Update time:

Final rotor went on with ease. Lowered my car to the ground. First time in three months. New wheels/tires, ALL new suspension (shocks/struts/springs), stock UCAs, Maximum Motorsports LCAs, Panhard bar..everything (even replaced the shot out A arm bushings with new rubber bushings). Drove slowly up and down my street and noticed a thumping noise from under the differential. Turns out the e brake cables were catching on the tires. Quick work with zip ties fixed the problem. Also adjusted the e brake again. Car is absolutely solid. Brakes are spectacular. I did notice my car does not sit level at all four corners. See attached measurements. An alignment may cure some of this, but unless I missed a spring isolator (which I'm sure I did not) I'm not sure why the car is level on the pax side and so far off on the driver's side. Especially when I replaced most of the suspension. Lastly, I noticed my front shocks hit the underside of the hood. I'll need to contact Maximum Motorsports and see what that's all about. More work to do and bugs to flesh out.

 

[Mustang5L5]

What camber plates are those? The strut is sitting too high up. If they were MM brand I would suggest removing a spacer to lower the top of the strut down slightly.


There are parking brake guides designed to hold the cables away. They bolt to the sway bar mount on the lower control arm. MUCH cheaper if you find a boneyard and take them off a 94-04 Mustang

Mustang Parking Brake Cable Guide Kit (94-04) - LMR

Easily replace your broken or missing 1994-2004 Mustang parking brake cable guides with this parking brake cable guide kit!

lmr.com

 

[Habu135]

What camber plates are those? The strut is sitting too high up. If they were MM brand I would suggest removing a spacer to lower the top of the strut down slightly.


There are parking brake guides designed to hold the cables away. They bolt to the sway bar mount on the lower control arm. MUCH cheaper if you find a boneyard and take them off a 94-04 Mustang

Mustang Parking Brake Cable Guide Kit (94-04) - LMR

Easily replace your broken or missing 1994-2004 Mustang parking brake cable guides with this parking brake cable guide kit!

lmr.com

I'm not sure what brand they are. They were previously installed prior to my purchase. The stock struts fit fine with the trunk shut so maybe I tightened the struts too much.

I think I'm going to stick with the zip ties for now. They work fine and are unnoticeable unless you stair directly at them.

 

[RaggedGT]

Does your hood hinge hit your proportioning valve?

 

[Habu135]

Does your hood hinge hit your proportioning valve?

No. I ensured it wasn't hitting. See attached photos of strut marks on the underside of the hood.

 

[Mustang5L5]

A few spacers under the washer on the strut will drop the top of the strut down a bit to clear the hood.

If those were the MM camber plates, that's what the insctructions would tell you to do

 

[Habu135]

You're saying to add additional washers here (where the single washer already is)?

Dumb question, but how do you torque the strut without it just spinning? MM suggests to using an Allen wrench equipped torque wrench and another box wrench.

"Tighten the strut top retaining nut snug with a 24mm boxed end wrench while holding the strut shaft with an 8mm allen wrench. Once snug, tighten the strut shaft to 65 ft-lbs with an 8mm allen wrench bit on the end of a torque wrench, while holding the nut with the 24mm boxed end wrench."[/QUOTE]

 

[Mustang5L5]

You're saying to add additional washers here (where the single washer already is)?

Dumb question, but how do you torque the strut without it just spinning? MM suggests to use an Allen wrench equipped torque wrench and another

Actuallly, no I was wrong. Spacer would need to be added to the underside of the plate. You'd put the spacer on the strut, and then insert it into the C/C plate. But take that advice with a grain of salt because i'm not familiar with that brand C/C plate.

When I tighted the nuts down, I used a wrench and allen and just tightened it to the point where I felt it was pretty tight but not overtorqued. I then put a dab of paint on the nut and threaded portion to mark it and check for spin. Every time I open the hood, I inspect. Hasn't moved.

I usually add dabs of paint to all my critical bolts.

 

[Habu135]

Actuallly, no I was wrong. Spacer would need to be added to the underside of the plate. You'd put the spacer on the strut, and then insert it into the C/C plate. But take that advice with a grain of salt because i'm not familiar with that brand C/C plate.

When I tighted the nuts down, I used a wrench and allen and just tightened it to the point where I felt it was pretty tight but not overtorqued. I then put a dab of paint on the nut and threaded portion to mark it and check for spin. Every time I open the hood, I inspect. Hasn't moved.

I usually add dabs of paint to all my critical bolts.

I've got an email in to MM so I'll see what they say as well, but your post seems like the only solution. I'm not looking forward to pulling the wheels off again, but I guess this is required when completely swapping out entire segments.

 

[Olivethefet]

I had a similar issue when I installed MM CC plates on my car and upgraded the shock from factory stuff to a KYB shock. Of course I didnt realize I had a problem until I basically had everything back together. I ended up doing what Mustang5L5 did. Just had to move spacers from above the plate to under the plate.

 

[Boostedpimp]

Those caster camber plates look like the lmr ones or a copy of the bbk type

How To: Install Fox Body Mustang J&M Caster Camber Plates (79-93

If you've lowered your 1979-1993 Fox Mustang, it's time to pick up a set of J&M Caster Camber Plates to get your front-end back into alignment!

lmr.com

 

[Habu135]

I had a similar issue when I installed MM CC plates on my car and upgraded the shock from factory stuff to a KYB shock. Of course I didnt realize I had a problem until I basically had everything back together. I ended up doing what Mustang5L5 did. Just had to move spacers from above the plate to under the plate.

How many washers did you add to each strut?

 

[Habu135]

My car's caster camber plate sits flush on the strut tower. The one in that video has spacers underneath it.

 

[Olivethefet]

With the MM plates they came with spacers that slipped down on the top of the shock. Depending on the shock, I guess, you put some under the plate and some on the top. Between the top of the plate and the nut. I ended up having to move one of those spacers from the top of the plate to below the plate.

Here is a pic of the installation instructions so you can see what I'm talking about.

I hope that helps. I'm guessing your setup will be a little different.