13" brakes are on!

Put em on last week, not a hard job at all. Was a PITA because my driveway is mostly dirt and uneven gravel.. and my car is too low to get a jack under. After getting the car off the ground, it's only a matter of the lugnuts, and 3 bolts per caliper to do the swap.

Bullitt calipers - $230 (buyfordracing.com)
Rotors: $110 (irotors.com)
Fluid: $10 (local dealer)



it was so humid, the camera fogged over for a few hours when i brought it outside.

helty said:

Looks good man

Too bad you got a little curb rash on those rims. I think they're the some of the best looking rims to come stock on a GT.

Click to expand...

Thanks Yeah, I got those rims that way though. They're kind bent up too..but I traded straight up for my stock 5-stars which I hated. They're the machined face version too, I wish I could fix them without spending as much as a new set costs. They're coming off soon anyway for some FR500s

BigChiefSmokem said:

Where did you buy from and any noticeable difference? Are the bullitt calipers different from the GTs or are they just red with a pony logo on em?

Click to expand...

I listed the sites i bought from in my first post.. The bullitt calipers are like the Cobra/Mach1 calipers- they're bigger and are made for the 13" rotor that the GT caliper wont fit. The bullitt/cobra/mach are all the same though aside from paint/logos.

To compare size difference, theres maybe 1/4" gap between the backside of my rim and the side of the caliper.. but on my friends gt (with cobra wheels, which might be offset different to accomodate cobra calipers), there is about a 3" gap from caliper to rim.

I don't know how stock vs cobra really compares, my stock equipment was worn out with abused pads/rotors, and fluid that looked like it was carbonated with 80k miles on it.. that junk, vs this stuff is a world of difference. It feels like it could slam the nose of the car on the ground if my springs werent as stiff as they are.

Money well spent IMO.

BigChiefSmokem said:

How i missed the sites in the first post, i dunno, i went retarded

Very Cool, glad to hear you can feel a huge dif. Just out of curiousity, how long before you need, fluid, rotor and pad changes on the car? I'm at 65k and no fluid, rotor and new pads so far... I figure i should upgrade if i'm going to do any new stuff...

Click to expand...

The pads should be changed as often as necessary, you can just look at the inside of the caliper and see how much pad material is left. When youre down to like 1/4 - 1/8th inch, its time to replace.. The new calipers come with pads, and OEM pads are rather good quality.


Rotors can be turned (usually no more than once) on a brake lathe to remove large gouges.

The fluid should probably be changed as often as the coolant or tranny fluid.. It's even easier to do than those. If you have wheels with big gaps between the spokes, you don't even have to take them off. It costs less than an oil change as well.

Saleen4971 said:

in that 1st pic it looks like the caliper/pads dont cover the whole rotor surface - thats just the way you had them sitting, right?

Click to expand...

You can see in the last picture how much the pads actually make contact with on the rotor where it has eaten away the zinc coating (normal).. as bdcardinal said, the bigger rotor is mainly additional leverage and heat dissipation.

And FWIW, anyone wanting to do this should know that slotted OR drilled rotors can not be turned. once they're gouged or show any cracking- thats it- time for new rotors... but for $110 for this set and how they look thats fine with me.

DominatingV8 said:

What tools do you need exactly to do that complete brake job and was it pretty easy to do... I need a change and i am looking into getting the same setup u got. Looks awesome! Thnaks, any help would be appreciated

Click to expand...

Jacks, jackstand, a 4way, the basic stuff to get the front end off the ground.. then all you need is a 3/8" ratchet, a 13"mm socket.. and i think a 15mm socket. Two big bolts on the outside of the caliper, and one bolt on the banjo bolt (brake line bolt) and it all comes off, replace, put those 3 bolts back in, and put the wheels back on.