Progress Thread HeHateMe gets bent

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2” of snow should be no big deal. Another 10” without all season radials sounds disastrous.
It takes a lot of amps (actually watts) to make as much heat as a mini radiator water powered one. I’m not sure what a Jeep heater is, but the biggest defroster for sale at the truck stops takes 30 amps.

You must live somewhere that

A): Gets snow on a regular basis and therefore don't look at it like it's an alien life form
B): Have some semblance of equipment to clear the roads, either salt spreaders or plows.

Last I hear, the City of Memphis, population about 650k, has 35 plows and I think 15 or so of those are at the Memphis Int'l Airport to keep FedEx running.

@CarMichael Angelo made a comment about B'ham shutting down with just a forecast of snow/ice. That's Memphis. We had freezing rain last Thursday and now this. We haven't had anything like this in about 10 years. And we are supposed to get another round Wed that could be another 5-10 inches. We haven't had anywhere near that since the mid 80's when I was in high school.

People around here delve into two types of dangerous drivers when the snow is on the ground. They drive like they are on eggshells and get stuck on the smallest incline. Or they drive like normal, meaning 10-20mph over the speed limit and soon fill up the ditches with their destroyed vehicles.

I'm pretty sure I wouldn't run an electric heater, maybe one of those little defrost boxes. My only reason for tagging it and driving it as far as I can tell right now, would be Drag Week, or Rocky Mountain Race Week or something similar. Those are held in the warm months, so heat is probably not needed.
 
Bad stuff happens when it snows in the south.

They don't have an excuse...DFW gets 10x more icy/snowy than we do every year. People just are ignorant of how to drive when there's the possibility of black ice....it's not like there's a sign, in 2 miles Black ice.
 
Drivers do not read signs.
Road work near my home has closed a street, there are great big signs stating ROAD CLOSED NO LEFT TURN and they will line up in the turn lane only to find the road is blocked off. They finally had to put barriers in the turn lane to stop it :doh:
 
I should leave well enough alone. I had the block off plate pretty much done. It was recessed a tad bit too far which made grinding my ugly ass welds a challenge, but not biggie. But it had a few pin holes I could see light thru. I could have just seam sealed it on the inside and put some filler on the outside, but I said, hey lookie at me, I'm a welder...and blew :leghump:ing holes all through it. Like a plasma cutter.....even though I turned the voltage down.

In hindsight, trying to grind it I think I got some areas of the patch paper thin. SO, now...what to do. I could cut another circle out and just cover that one up. It would be easier to grind with the weld on the outside edge, instead of the inside edge. Or I could just cut a square type thing and cut this fiasco out.

I'm working from home tomorrow, because we got about 7 inches of snow today. I was looking for an online MIG training webinar or something. Probably need to go to the junkyard with a sawzall and get some car sheet metal and go to town burning it up before I get back on my junk.

One thing I can do is make patch panels, even if I don't weld them in yet.

Oh, when that fiasco was done, I was going to change my WiFi routers out. I have a LUMA setup...seems they went out of business, so I decided to get something else. Meshforce. Put the 3 nodes in, badda bing, speedtest on the wired connection on my PC is 100mbps...wtf? It should be 220-250. Check the specs, Meshforce M1 is 100mbs on the wired side. :leghump: Me Running. So pull them out, put them back in their box, return via Amazon Prime. Hook the Luma back up....lucky to get 8mbps when just 45 minutes ago before I unhooked them, 228. I reboot them and the modem 4 or 72 times. Finally get 125mbps....yay. Put the step ladder up come get on the PC to post this :poo:ty rant, and DNS failure...no wired internet. W T everlasting F. Go check that I put the network cables in the proper ports. Make sure it's still plugged into the switch. Reboot the Luma and the modem AGAIN. Come downstairs cussing....and it works. Still not back to 220-250, but 140-180.

I'm leaving well enough alone. Lesson learned today!
 
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I could go along for a ride since there's no video? You could laugh at my welding ability? 50 miles is way to far to come over and get drunk, so that rules that out.
pfft...speak for yourself. A 50 mile drive while drunk goes by much faster than normal...( considering I’m asleep part of the time).
And,...all riding along in the car would do would be to corroborate what the video would show....
It’s slow.
 
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If you're ready for a 4 hr drive, I'll have the bourbon or beer or tequila ready. The Monster and The PeanutButterFalcon. Oh how they would talk of the day.

Anyway, I feel much better about my manhood today. As I have said, I am no picasso or even experienced welding. But I know I am not as horrible as yesterday would have led me to believe.

When I got the bottle hooked up over the weekend, I called my brother and commented how I could not hear any gas coming out of the torch. He asked for a video and pointed out that the regular was moving when the trigger pulled so gas was indeed flowing.

I just sat here and watch some dude do a review of the Titanium 170. He sets it up 20cfh just like I have. Pulled the trigger, pssshh, gas flowing. WTF?

I go out and look and the hose is not seated completely in the welder. I guess the gas ports don't line up so gas was going inside the welder not down the hose to the torch. :bs: :bs: :ack:

On my test piece of 20 gauge I set the machine back to what the label says...wire feed way too slow. Speed it up and without really trying laid down the 3 beads to the left after beating my head literally yesterday about the beads (if they can be called that) on the right.

Now, I still may seriously suck ass at welding but I know I have the machine set correctly now. It won't be the machine's fault. Judging by the 3rd bead, I need to move a little faster and maybe turn the voltage down just a hair, but this looks like an actual weld.

IMG_20210216_165321.jpg
IMG_20210216_165451.jpg
IMG_20210216_165442.jpg
 
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her
If you're ready for a 4 hr drive, I'll have the bourbon or beer or tequila ready. The Monster and The PeanutButterFalcon. Oh how they would talk of the day.

Anyway, I feel much better about my manhood today. As I have said, I am no picasso or even experienced welding. But I know I am not as horrible as yesterday would have led me to believe.

When I got the bottle hooked up over the weekend, I called my brother and commented how I could not hear any gas coming out of the torch. He asked for a video and pointed out that the regular was moving when the trigger pulled so gas was indeed flowing.

I just sat here and watch some dude do a review of the Titanium 170. He sets it up 20cfh just like I have. Pulled the trigger, pssshh, gas flowing. WTF?

I go out and look and the hose is not seated completely in the welder. I guess the gas ports don't line up so gas was going inside the welder not down the hose to the torch. :bs: :bs: :ack:

On my test piece of 20 gauge I set the machine back to what the label says...wire feed way too slow. Speed it up and without really trying laid down the 3 beads to the left after beating my head literally yesterday about the beads (if they can be called that) on the right.

Now, I still may seriously suck ass at welding but I know I have the machine set correctly now. It won't be the machine's fault. Judging by the 3rd bead, I need to move a little faster and maybe turn the voltage down just a hair, but this looks like an actual weld.

IMG_20210216_165321.jpg
IMG_20210216_165451.jpg
IMG_20210216_165442.jpg
Here’s an exercise for you...
Pulse the trigger( think, pop-pop-pop)..the burn starts, and you stop.Trigger the gun, the burn starts, and you stop.
Try that.
 
her

Here’s an exercise for you...
Pulse the trigger( think, pop-pop-pop)..the burn starts, and you stop.Trigger the gun, the burn starts, and you stop.
Try that.

That sounds like it requires patience.

Actually since my way, even if the welder was setup right, probably wouldn't have done much better than it did. So I may try that...even though I told myself that's the way I needed to do it. Patience I have not....but need.
 
So I didn't take too many pics because I wasn't happy with the fill in piece for the blower motor. I hit it hard with the hammer and it more than 75% come out, so I just ripped it on out. I made another piece and rather than trying to recess it in the opening, it covers the opening. It's better, my welding is better. As @CarMichael Angelo suggested, I used the spt, spt, spt method and although it took forever, it's pretty solidly in there. However grinding the weld down with a 4" flap disc left a lot to be desired. Which is WHY I bought a 90 degree die grinder the Freight that lies in Harbor. And it ran for a solid 10 seconds and quit. And so did I. I was going to take it back today and swap, but my 20 yr old was headed back to UT Knoxville and said his tires were low. So I took care of him and sent him on his way. I figure I'll wait till I get another die grinder then put another bead around the blower motor filler then grind it down with hopefully a little more precision.

So today, I thought I would work on filling in the inner cowl. I said, well. I better hit it with the flap disc and a wire wheel and see what I got. Holy :poo:. It opened a bunch of new pin holes up. Especially in the center that I had left in. At first, I said oh well, cut it all out. Then I realized the wiper motor is mounted to that center piece. So I said, I better patch it. But the holes were inside of the wiper bracket, which would have made it hard but not impossible to fix. But the more I dove into it, the more I realized just how rotted it was.

So I cut the center piece out and relived it of the wiper bracket. Then started see how could I patch it or remake it. I was trying to imagine how could I get the recessed area the wiper bracket fits in. I grabbed some wooden blocks and the joke of an 'anvil' on my vice. After about 20 seconds of hitting it with a hammer, I said, this dog aint hunting. I then remembered the 12" Eastwood bead roller I bought. It came with bead dies and offset dies. Sure enough doing a little test piece, if I got the offsets set apart just right, I can make a decent enough offset.

So I went to work. It's not perfect. I wouldn't want to show it off every time someone looks at the car. Once the outer cowl goes on, it will be virtually impossible to see.

That being said, if I bought the cheap ass metal brake from Harbor Freight, I bet I could remake this now and it would be much better. But basically for learning and experimenting, I am tickled pink. If I really care, I could use some high build primer and maybe some filler and it would be downright presentable. But now, just in case I can get a title and put a plate on the car, I can have wipers. I didn't say functional, because I don't know if the vacuum wipers even work. Now, thinking about it....I should have found a 64 or up Falcon with an electric wiper motor and get THAT mount....but too late.

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I got every .0001 out of this cut off wheel!

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So the wiper mount doesn't lie level. If you look at the last picture above, the right side is higher than the left. I used the offset dies on my bead roller, and I put one bead in, similar to the factory, although factory bead is like 3/4 or 1" wide and mine is 1/4" I did try rolling it twice side by side to get it wide. I'm not even sure other than strength what the bead does.

IMG_20210221_152508.jpg


Here's the bead roller with the offset dies. It worked pretty well...once I tightened ALL the set screws up. At first different stuff kept falling off because I guess the don't ship it tight.
IMG_20210221_190304.jpg
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I'm pretty happy with the way it came out functional. My brain says leave it be, no on will see it when the car is together. My ego, says son that looks like ass redo it. I can get some more 20 gauge from work, so that's not a problem. But I think this will do. I'm worried I would spend a couple more hours working on another one and it wouldn't be much better. The biggest problem with the current one is a messed up twice and pounded the offset back out. We'll see how I feel next weekend. I also think I will just take this thing to work and zap it together in our resistance spot welded and pretty much be done.
IMG_20210221_163558.jpg
 
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I'm sure if the Fairmont was 1962 even if were stored inside in Cali, it would have rust. Evidently they didn't really quality check their galvanizing back then. Some parts of the Falcon that would seem to be positively rotted looked like new steel. Some that there's no way they say water, are rotted out.

It is what it is. I have more time that money and most of the 16, 18, 20 gauge I need I can get out of the scrap bin at work. Just have to buy grinding discs and welding consumables.

Speaking of, I know it may come as a shock, but I think part of my welding problem is the HF Titanium Mig 170 regulator is not regulating correctly. At 20 cfh, I hear gas coming out and it seems to work. Turn it any less and it either drops to 10 cfh and can't hear gas or it starts vibrating and bouncing from 10-30. It will not under any circumstances go below 10. So worst case it's just off scale, but I want to get one that works to make sure I am not wasting C25 and that the gas is always flowing correctly. Lord knows my welding doesn't need any handicaps other than my welding talent itself.

Everytime i look at this I thank God I chose a car from Arizona.