1978 Fairmont Build..And just when I thought everybody had put up their toys for the year....

When Mike tries to cut the Aerocatch fasteners into the original hood, will I:

  • Do it up

    Votes: 5 41.7%
  • Screw it up

    Votes: 7 58.3%

  • Total voters
    12
  • Poll closed .

hoopty5.0

mechanicus terribilis
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I'll be watching with great interest. I had a sketch for one drawn up that I intended to build on the silver car, but we all know what happened there.
For what it's worth, it had the pivoting forward mount like you are showing as well. I have a couple of poly joint ends if you wanna use them in lieu of the heim joints?
 
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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I'll be watching with great interest. I had a sketch for one drawn up that I intended to build on the silver car, but we all know what happened there.
For what it's worth, it had the pivoting forward mount like you are showing as well. I have a couple of poly joint ends if you wanna use them in lieu of the heim joints?
i’m not using heim joints, except in the panhard bar. Still going with the current female poly mount, just raising it considerably.
 
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7991LXnSHO

Now I want a 10 year badge
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The Mythbusters spent most of an episode failing to get the front end of a driveshaft to fall off and do a pole vault. They made sparks a lot before they made the pole vault happen. The driveshaft pole vault only worked when it hit the pothole. Then it bent the driveshaft into a Z and it ended up in the back of the car, Now if the rear rotates when the arm is broken, that could be more likely to dig in. The front driveshaft loop probably helps save the bottom of the car and exhaust as much as prevent pole vaulting.

You gotta know that if that thing broke, there’d be no saving anything,....first ( if it broke under acceleration) it would slam into the driveshaft, and as soon as that would happen, I’d lift, and it would immediately slam down to the pavement..where it would undoubtedly dig in...becoming a 100 mph pole vault.

Uhhh..No said the finger :nono:
 

Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?
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Wow man, I have missed a lot being away. Interested to see the 2j swap, Mike. Glad to see there’s at least one pic in this thread of the Monster. I’d forgotten what a fabulous looking car it is. Last time I looked at the old thread I saw the 2jz swap had begun, but I never found a reason why. I assume a catastrophic failure of the custom I6? Anyway, good to see you are still at it!
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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Wow man, I have missed a lot being away. Interested to see the 2j swap, Mike. Glad to see there’s at least one pic in this thread of the Monster. I’d forgotten what a fabulous looking car it is. Last time I looked at the old thread I saw the 2jz swap had begun, but I never found a reason why. I assume a catastrophic failure of the custom I6? Anyway, good to see you are still at it!
I rattled the engine one time too many, and the block cracked between the cylinders. It failed Partially because the machine shop i used reinstalled sleeves that were way too thick, and left no margine between the cylinders, and Partially because I was asking the engine to make 3 times the power it was designed to handle.
 
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Boosted92LX

It's only an inch or two. What's the big deal?
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I rattled the engine one time too many, and the block cracked between the cylinders. It failed Partially because the machine shop i used reinstalled sleeves that were way too thick, and left no margine between the cylinders, and Partially because I was asking the engine to make 3 times the power it was designed to handle.
So, in other words, you partially did what 75% of Fox owners do to stock block 5.0s? I see nothing wrong here... Carry on! ;)

I’m interested in seeing this new mill, man! Don’t be stingy with the pics!
 

Potomus Pete

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I rattled the engine one time too many, and the block cracked between the cylinders. It failed Partially because the machine shop i used reinstalled sleeves that were way too thick, and left no margine between the cylinders, and Partially because I was asking the engine to make 3 times the power it was designed to handle.
What are you sayin that the block cracked........If you are your not too concerned after months of all that work.
 

revhead347

Just rub Vaseline all over
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I rattled the engine one time too many, and the block cracked between the cylinders. It failed Partially because the machine shop i used reinstalled sleeves that were way too thick, and left no margine between the cylinders, and Partially because I was asking the engine to make 3 times the power it was designed to handle.
I'm going to have to call you out on that exaggeration. You might possibly be making 2 times what that engine was making from the factory, which is half what it was designed to handle. The machine shop **** it up, enough said. Those 2jz blocks are legendary strong.

Kurt
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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I'm going to have to call you out on that exaggeration. You might possibly be making 2 times what that engine was making from the factory, which is half what it was designed to handle. The machine shop **** it up, enough said. Those 2jz blocks are legendary strong.

Kurt
So then....you’re sayin I can’t even claim 450 hp on a turbocharged, roller cammed six with a custom ported Aussie head?

You do know I was talkin about the 250 Maverick 6 that I cut the side open on,....right?

*
The Ford Inline Six 250 is a 4.1L 250 cubic inch straight six-cylinder that was the optional engine available with the 1969 Ford Mustang and medium-sized Ford cars (such as the Ford Maverick) in the 1970 production year. The Inline Six 250 would become the standard engine offered by Ford with their Mustang in 1971 and was rated at the time for 155 hp. This same engine would be rated at 98 hp in 1972 and this rating would drop to 88 hp in 1971. You can recognize the Inline Six 250 by five freeze plugs on the side of the engine block and the seven main bearings included with this engine. It has the starter mounted low by the oil pan rail and six bell housing bolts as in previous Ford Inline Six engines.

The Ford Inline Six 250 is essentially an Inline Six 200 that has had the stroke increased from 3.126 inches to 3.91 inches. These changes to the Ford Inline Six 200 have the effect of increasing the horsepower of the original Ford Inline Six 200 engine to 155 hp and 240 ft lbs of torque.

Around the same time, Ford Australia introduced the 2V cylinder head, which was nearly identical to the old integral “log head” intake, except for an aluminum intake mated with a removable Stromberg 2V carburetor. This form of the Inline Six 250 sports a more efficient exhaust manifold that allowed it to breath easier and resulted in this form being rated for 170 hp. The cylinder head adjustment became popular, and was brought over to North America by racing enthusiasts.

In 1976, Ford Australia began phasing out the Inline Six 250, and it went out of production in 1980.

A ford I 6 was a pig. For that car to be as fast as it was,..didn’t come as a result of 300 hp.
 

CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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Like it says...I’m honestly wondering if I don’t have to actually go anywhere, and can stay on task here today, How much of this damn project can I get done? I plan to start here in about an hour, and work at it till 5:30-6:00. I need to build everything except the main spar, but now that the crossmember has already been mocked up, I kinda have a reference for what to do there. I know that I want to do the crossmember first. Once bolted in, it’ll hold the front of the main spar in place. From there, it’s on to finishing the main spar, which will require fabrication of the rear legs, the front mounts, and the reinforcement trusses. Once that is done, the rear shocks can be put back on, and I can truly weight the chassis again to make sure where ride height is. And last, once I know that, i can build the panhard bar mount.
In my head, it seems like I should be able to do all that today...:chin

There are things could get in the way though...
1. The turbo is gonna be ready for pickup. If i don’t get it today, I’ll only have until noon to pick it up tomorrow, and..I have a customer coming in at some point that may corrupt my morning. If i can get that thing, and I get all this sht done today,..I’ll be able to put the turbo on Sunday.
2. I’m down to about 600 psi on my weld gas bottle...And I gotta lot of welding to do. It’d suck if I run out.
3. There are a couple of things at work that may require I go in.

Obviously, if any if that sht gets in the middle,..Whatever gets done is all that’s gonna get done. But I’m gonna try.

As much as it pains me, Im putting new carpet in the car. I fcked up the cut on the current carpet, and the closer you look, the more it looks fcked up as a rats ass. There are also holes cut way too big at the front of the seats exposing the floor beneath,..so..I gotta buy some new sht. Because the seats gotta come out as part of my crossmember project, that really isn’t an issue, excepting that I’m basically throwing away a brand new carpet because.......

Who am I again?..( Somethin about doing stuff more than once IIRC....:thinking:)
 

95BlueStallion

Drop into my dm’s gurrrrrl
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What are we gonna do today, Brain?

Edit: your timing was impeccable. And if it makes you feel any better, I bought new ACC carpet for that Ranger I had and never got around to installing it. Ended up throwing it away when we moved.
 

stanglx2002

CT Material here
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I agree as well, which ensures you have everything in hand to weld, and install the turbo. If you run into a roadblock then you can shift gears.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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Well,...It’s 1:20.
The main spar now has the new male shaft mega welded on.
The new crossmember is made, but not mounted.

I still have 500 psi of gas.
One of the two customers, bought the car I was expecting him to buy...( I was able to take a deposit and hold till Friday)
The other called me looking to come in today ( which I told him i’d be happy to accommodat) but he said he could wait till friday just the same...I’m thinking he’ll buy a new X7 tomorrow.

It’s turning out to be a really good day.

Im going down now, I got 4.5 hours left...let’s see what kinda sht I can get done.
 

a91what

SendMeUrDataLog
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Go Mikey Go
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CarMichael Angelo

clearly, I’ve got something going on in that hole
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Riding home from dinner with Kate. We went to a chain restaurant here in the city.
Papadeaux.
A Cajun wannabe sorry assed 5 outta 10 experience that cost me 175.00 before the tip.
Papadeaux sucks..ill never go back. 1 time was too much.

Whew... :nonono:

SO.... Car stuff then...

After my 1:30 update, I go back downstairs. No sooner am I down there, than I get the call from the turbo guy.. My tiny wheezer was ready for pick up..I tell dude I was trying to get the torque arm done, but my fail safe time to leave here to come and get it would be 4pm.
He closed at 5.
So,..back to weld-i-town...I go.

I reinforce the crossmember, which requires cutting pieces, and welding some more...I cut, and weld. I cut and weld..I mock things up I take them back apart..its now 3:50.
Im down to 400 psi, and I gotta sht ton to weld yet..I gotta get the bottle exchanged..
I call around...no bodies answering.
I load the bottle, and head to the place I normally exchange my bottle. I call them, they tell me that they close at 4...
THEY CLOSE AT FREAKIN 4!!!
But,..they know me. Dude asks where I am, I tell him 10 mins out,...he says he'll stay the extra 5 mins..

I get the bottle exchanged.

I Head to the turbo dude, he's 20 miles away..and I got rush hour between me and him. I'm there at 4:45.

I Get my tiny little wheezer..

It was 5:20 by the time I get back home...I put the wheezer on the bench, and mock up the main spar into the crossmember. It’s too late to do anything else...I clean up, and have to spend $200 on a sorry assed meal, at a sorry assed restaurant.

This is where I am now...1 day away from finishing the torque arm,..And another few hours after that from instant boost.
 
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